2.4g Shaun

I can highly recommend the 362. It's a cracking plane to fly and Martins version is unique with retracts in. Worth every penny of the asking price.

That's the problem today Paul; many more flyers and assemblers. True Aeromodellers are becoming a dying breed and basic skills are being lost; a crying shame. Back in the day you would have been laughed at for weeks in my club if you said you couldn't repair the damage on the K6. Shaun.

Forgot to mention , I wiped the Solartex/ Oratex covering down with thinners first to de-grease etc. before applying any paint

I use Valspar Matt emulsion tester pots, applied with a 4" foam roller. Finished off with a couple of coats of satin floor varnish and spray polyethylene where ever fuel may get. Pic below is a 1/3rd scale Morane I did a few years ago using this method. You just need to ensure you get enough varnish over the emulsion to seal it otherwise it can temporarily bloom if it gets wet. I seem to remember I did the whole model for under £40.00. P.s. silver and black was enamel paint, it didn't look right with emulsion. Can't remember what paint I used for the roundels, most likely a mix of emulsion plus enamel. No decals used all painted using freehand or vinyl paint masks.

They fly like a trainer and great fun but don't try it in a small field for your first go. I was surprised how easy it went away from a hand launch. It was meant to get skyward not sit on a wardrobe. 😄😄

Cheers Phil.

Has anybody got plans to build a launch dolly for a large glider please? Cheers, Shaun

Hi Mark... "The key is that you took them down to a storage charge which helps elevate any damage to the internal structure." I'm sure you meant Alleviate. Elevate would mean increasing the damage. 😄

www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk There's a clue in the web address. 😄😄

Micron used to stock them from memory. The motor looks like an AP ** variant. www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk Alternatively as mentioned solder direct (once motor direction is established) or use a servo plug and socket instead. It can easily carry the current for that motor.

I tried everything to straighten 6 warped marine ply ribs in an old Krick SG38 kit; heat, water, pressure. In the end, I made some new ones as even when they appeared to be straight, the warp crept back in after a few days.

Back in the day they were well regarded, well made and delivered the goods. The FAI version was a hotter wind. Yours has the gearbox on as well. There should be plenty of info on the internet about astro motors. Shaun.

Couldn't resist, built one of Phil's nRf reed sets yesterday. Pleased how it's come out. More featured than the original PIC based one from many years ago I built in a RCS reed set case and it's still performing perfectly. The single channel button saved me building an additional tx Shaun.

Hi Chris, I'm sure Pete will be along soon; yes he was the designer of it. In the UK it was affectionately known as the "Crispy Mixture" 😀

After flying my Dammit S, I sold my Phase 6. It's a brilliant all round model that will fly in a breath of wind up to a near gale. Can be extremely aerobatic when pushed and does everything I want from a slope aerobatic glider.