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Seagull Boomerang Trainner ARTF


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This the first time i have ever attempted to build a model of this nature fresh to the hobby i am really enjoying it and the guys on this site are just great theres all ways some who will help you. I wanted to do this so people such as my self can see what it really involvs to get air born come on in your all welcome and please leave any comments that you care to.....
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Ok so the big shiny box arrives and is smartly opened to present me with a well packaed ARTF kit good start! no damaged bits. First job was to take stock and make sure all was there im glad to say it was. Ok you are probably dying to get the glue mixed and start sticking but stop! go make a cupper and read the instructions from front to back then read them again!.

With the Boomerang the firstjob is to glue the two wing halfs together using 30 min epoxy there is a dihedral brace supplied so dont worry all the angles are done for you simply insert the brace into the channel on one wing half and mark the point where it comes to rest this should be the half way point! if its not then you will have to adjust as required. Ok making sure you have put the brace in the right way up (its v shaped as you look at it) trail fit the other wing if they meat neatly you have it right remove from wings and apply generous amounts of epoxy into one channel and to one half of the brace insert it in and push fully home and allow to dry. Now repeat the process for the other half then slide the wings together been carefull they align properly you can use tape if you want to ensure they dont move while setting. Please excuse the lack o picks for this part of the build i got a little carried away and forgot to take any What you should end up with is some thing like this. (bellow)

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Two of the guys in my club are spening their cash on these models with futaba 2.4 GHz gear. Will be watching your progress.

Been caught out with this one a couple of times. Many instruction kits have the pictures for CA gluing the elevator control surfaces before the picture of installing the rear wing. I found myself going DUH ! realising you cant fit the surface through the horizontal slots and then having to rip apart the tail assembly in a hurry.

 Good luck with the model.

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Darren

Yeah i know what you mean these instructions arnt much better thats why i say read them twice theres a few points that ill mention later on. It does seem quite a popular trainer this one as im finding out but i can see why its a good price and quality is good too. Personaly i opted to go 2.4 as well but im running spektrum gear as you will see later on. Thanks for your interest.

Regards Alex

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Strangely the next step is to sort the UC out but i thought this was really not going to make things easy so decided to leave it till last following what i have seen others do.

After the wings had dried completely it was time to fit the servo mount and control rods to the wing. The Boomer uses only one servo for the Ailerons which is nice cause it keeps things simple i think.. The servo mount itself is a quite simple procedure first position the mount on the wing over the cut out thats alrady there and draw around it now carefully remove some of the wing covering WITHIN the lines you have just drawn to expose the bare wood. Obviously this to anable  a solid bond between the wing and the mount. At this stage i noticed the mount was straight where as the wing was not due to the dihedral so the mount does not sit flush to the wing to get a good bond i wanted it to sit as flat as possible before and pressure, glue or clamps were used to force the surfaces together so on the back of the mount i cut to V shaped groves that would allow it to bend to the shape of the wing more naturally once i was happy i applied 5 min epoxy and held firmly in place till dry . Once this had set i test fitted the servo i have use a Spektrum digi here cause i need a little extra torque and happily it was a nice snug fit that needed no adjustment brilliant! Servo screwed in place the wing build was complete.

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http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00086.jpg


This is the supplied hardware that comes with the kit good quality stuff really i have no gripes

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00089-1.jpg

Ok and the servo installed along with control rods, remember to centre the servo first before conecting the rods and clevis's. Also in this pic the rods have not been cut down i will leave this till the end of the build you dont have to i just am then i will trim them there far to long to operate safely inside the model in flight!!!

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Kelvin, Shaun

Thanks guy's for those few kind words im glad you like what im doing i am quite enjoying the "bloging" if im honest i have never done it before.

And Kelvin am i right in saying thats a 109 on one of your posts (one hanging up) if not i apologise whatever it is it is VERY nicely made bravo sir! i will admit now thats the direction im going in Warbirds i mean i love 'em can't beat them IMHO

Regards, Alex 

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Ok so thats the Wing Section finished with for now find a nice safe place for it a little tip i used the bubble wrap out the box to wrap mine in its just the right size.

So onto the fuselage first of all have a good look over it and make ure all is as it should be and all the push rods and guides are there and obviously nothing is broken,ok good next inspect the stab and tail fin only point to watch here is you have full travel of the control surfaces.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00053.jpg

All present and correct?

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00058.jpg

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So now your happy we have to fit the above to the fuselage dryfit the stab into the slot on the back of the fuselage making sure its a snug fit and more importantly that its central and square it is? good take a pen and mark around where the fuselage is covering the stab again this covering needs to be removed before we get the glue out. but leave it in place now carefully feel the top of the fuselage where the tail fin is to go and you will feel a depresion in the covering remove the covering here and then you will be able to get the tail fin in to check its position as well it sits in part ontop of the stab you didnt move it did you!! and again mark a line where the fuselage covers the tail what you should end up with is something like this

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00097.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00098.jpg

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Firstly apply epoxy to top and bottom ofthe stab and position this into the rear of the fuselage ensuring its central and level once the glue is dried apply a good amount of epoxy into the pre cut slot forthe tail fin again ensure it goes it straight and true the book says to use tape here to hold in place but i prefered to hold a square against it and hold it my self until the glue had set i never trust tape to keep anything square! once you have finished you should end up with some thing like this  a little tip if you have been a bit eager with the scapel and removed a little to much covering at any point use some white paint if you have no model paint you can use house hold paint just to touch up around the joins it just gives it that finished look but thats just my opinion

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00017-1.jpg


Starting to take shape

                                

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm106/lex7919/DSC00016.jpg

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Hi

I'm a noob too, and my choice of trainer is the Boomer too.

I put the OS46AX up front, and 3" wheels to cope better with our club's grass strip. Also, I didn't fancy the plastic spinner for looks as well as possible problems with an electric starter (but mainly the looks), so I put on an aluminium replacement. I chose Futaba S3004 servos all 'round.

This was my first build and it was basically straightforward as described above, however, I used M3 bolts and nyloc nuts for mounting the engine as I didn't fancy the supplied self-tappers.

All of the meta-to-metal threads were fastned using (blue) threadlock for extra security.

At the flying field, my instructor encouraged me to start the engine manually, as he felt that my electric starter was a bit brutal for a new engine; could have save a pile of loot there! Electric starter and power panel not needed for a start.

We put a tank of fuel through then off to the strip for the first flight.

nly problems: a bit nose heavy with a full tank of fuel, even though I followed the instructions to balance the 'plane with an empty tank; the spinner came loose and rattled rather horribly. Still, the noise wasn't from the engine.

Back at home, the CoG was sorted by moving the Rx battery pack from in front of the servo plate to behind it.

Next flight Friday (weather permitting)

Good luck to all fellow noobs.

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Should've stuck with the supplied spinner maybe.... no extra weight and less likely to rattle free? The plastic ones stand up pretty well to electric starters, usually eating the rubber cone rather than the other way around.

Good to see more people making sensible headway into the hobby though!

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