11C 213 Squadron Hurricane El Alamein 1942

[Peter Garsden]

Warning. Be careful with F1 - make sure it is the right way up. Easy to make a mistake with it. Also note how I lined up the slots for the doublers by making sure they are in the middle of the fuselage for lining up purposes later. I made marks and drew arrows. I am sure there should be a square hole in the middle for the box which has not been cut out, but there you go. This would explain why it is 3mm too long EXACTLY.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/04/2018 11:25:41

[Peter Garsden]

Famous last words eh? It was too difficult to assemble the fuselage using the jig at once. I decided to glue one half flat on the board using engineer's set squares, pins and packing.

You can see how I made sure the former lies vertically with engineer squares which I bought very cheaply on EBay for the A4 build and are invaluable.

If you look carefully you can see the deliberate error. The wing bolt plate is actually glued at the wrong angle even though it appears to be at 90 degrees at the base. It should lie above the slot for the wing doubler, not below. Doh!

You can see the 3mm packing I used to support F2, as otherwise F3 will not be vertical. I used off cuts from the centre of the formers.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/04/2018 11:13:04

[Peter Garsden]

You can now see the wing bolt plate more clearly - I realised the error this morning and made an executive decision not to try to cut away the glued plate and to put up with it being at the wrong angle. It will mean of course that the wing bolt will not be vertical and off centre, but I think I can live with that and make adjustments at the wing, Should be a problem, the speed this will fly!

[Peter Garsden]

Finally, I did get round to using the Jig to make sure everything was lined up and square when joining the right hand fuselage side. One does need to also use clamps, however.

I have made 2 holes in the formers because I am going to using a working rudder, which I like for spins and stall turns, also helps landing angles.

I think I will leave it in the jig to pull the tail together. and insert the formers etc. I am sure it will help with the wetting, and bending, shrinking etc.

Incidentally I am going to use hot vinegar - clear not malt by the way, rather than Ammonia. So I read, it doesn't matter whether you use alkaline or acid, it has the same effect on wood.

[Peter Garsden]

I have to say that for this build, the SLEC jig is a godsend as you can hold the fuselage in one position and add anything you wish without having to pin and unpin it continually. It will also help when we come to wetting and bending balsa I am sure.

Notice also that the scrap liteply from the formers makes very good packing pieces.

 

I have sanded the end of the fuselage so it meets in a point. It really helps to do this over the plan to get the right angle. I used a Permagrit file and aliphatic glue. It is really important to line up the tail seat when doing this and get everything square to avoid the tailplane being out of kilter and not lined up to the wing properly.

I also had to decide how to route the control rod tubes. I have one Sullivan cable left from the previous build (4.5mm) and an SLEC version which is 4mm. Only one 4.5mm hole is drilled in all the formers, so I drilled another on the other side.

When I assembled I realised that the correct run exits the fuselage on the opposite side to the servo to avoid a narrow angle. Thus, the rudder tube had to sit at a lower angle to the elevator tube. I could keep all the holes as they were apart from F9, where I had to glue on another piece of liteply and drill another 4mm hole.

 

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/04/2018 13:11:34

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/04/2018 13:12:30

Edited By Peter Garsden on 30/04/2018 13:14:00

[Peter Garsden]

I have installed the HS82MG in the fuselage for the elevator and rudder. I decided to use the existing ply because it was of such good quality - the same as used for the wing bolt plate.

I filled the gaps for the large servo with cyano and resin, then cut inside the holes. Seems to have worked.

Again, you can see where I have marked new holes for the control tubes which are going to line up with my smaller servos.As they are metal geared they should be OK.

The secret lies in not putting the inners under too much pressure. I exited them at the tail on the opposite side to their line of travel down the fuselage.

Also it is important to install the servos with the moving arm closest to the nose because otherwise there will not be enough play for the clevis attachment methinks.

You can see I marked the direction with arrows, also RB for right bottom (apologies Mr Moderator), and LB for (can't bring myself to type what it stands for) etc.

Does anyone know how to attach clevis etc to the SLEC yellow and white control rod - presumably one can glue a metal clevis holder to the inner? Or does it have a hole in the middle to screw something into it like the Sullivan example - red - not used SLEC before.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 08/05/2018 18:45:22

[Peter Garsden]

Don't know if it is me, but F8 protruded from the bottom of the fuselage unlike the plan. I found that I planed off too much of the 3/4" triangular section, so had to remove some of F8. I ended up with a curved seat for the bottom sheeting? I steamed it to fit.Not sure whether anyone else had the same issue. I was reluctant to shave any more triangular strip off in case I didn't have enough thickness for rounding off.You can just about make out what I mean from the side view

I used the split system Phil suggested and used the usual aliphatic, masking tape method to join them together. It wastes very little because you end up with straight grain and two halves of a triangle if that makes any sense.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 08/05/2018 19:05:05

Edited By Peter Garsden on 08/05/2018 19:07:47

[Peter Garsden]

This morning, before starting work, I decided to do what I thought was a quick job with some hot vinegar. It turned out not to be as quick as I thought.

I wetted out the rear top fuselage ready for bending. It bent OK, but placing the bits of wood and the clamps in position to hold it with the curved section proved difficult. In the end, following frustration at not being able to get the to clamp to hold at an angle, I employed some scrap pieces of 3/4" triangular. I should have studied Phil's blog first. Anyway, after seeming very stiff and non-pliable it bent to shape and is now drying preparatory to gluing.

I decided, at the same time, I would clamp the nose to F2 and F1 - I duly wetted out both sides then realised that the right hand fuselage extension was cracked, so I tried to glue it back together with hot cyano - but it had swelled and wouldn't fit. I then thought I would try again with some aliphatic - same problem, so I brushed off the glue with the brush I had used for the vinegar and will leave it to dry. Hopefully it will shrink back so I can glue and leave it to dry properly.

I did manage to bend the other side, which had also cracked but had been repaired previously- note to self - do not try to force bending dry as it will end in tears!

I am sure we all have these disasters, but not all of us write about them methinks?

You can see how the fuselage is nicely clamped in place by the SLEC jig. You can also see where one side has broken off.

[Trevor]

Posted by Peter Garsden on 11/05/2018 09:01:09

I am sure we all have these disasters, but not all of us write about them methinks?

Indeed. Wasn’t it Shakespeare who wrote “The course of true wood never did run smooth”?

Trevor

[Peter Garsden]

Posted by Trevor on 11/05/2018 16:54:43:

Posted by Peter Garsden on 11/05/2018 09:01:09

I am sure we all have these disasters, but not all of us write about them methinks?

Indeed. Wasn’t it Shakespeare who wrote “The course of true wood never did run smooth”?

Trevor

Made me chuckle Trevor.

"Never, in the field of balsa bashing, have so many been vanquished to save so few"

[Peter Garsden]

Well we bent it like Beckham today. I hear another Hurricane is being started not a million miles away from here by Uncle Model Shop Assistant Bob Jennings. Good luck Bob.

I made my special clamps and also made some extra ones for F3. How did it go? Honestly? It was a bag of s***e. I cracked some wood, snapped off other wood, and generally made a Horlicks of it.

The only bit that went well was the bendy inwards section just behind the canopy which was fine Still you won't notice when it is covered and filled.

I started to think I should have made a fibreglass version because then the complex curves wouldn't have mattered.

Just as well no one is relying on me to bend the ball round the goal keeper. I would just crack open the goal post and miss.

To reinforce the joints I have used Gorilla glue because it will expand to fill the gaps.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 12/05/2018 17:51:42

[Peter Garsden]

Just to come back on yesterday's wood breaking and cracking theme - a PLEASE BEWARE message for you budding fuselage builders. Beware of turning the fuselage over and resting it on the protruding pieces of 3mm top fuselage pieces. I applied pressure without realising it 3 times, and broke them off. The problem was that I used aliphatic and super phatic glue to repair the sheeting, and when I tried to wet and bend the balsa it parted the joint.

Also building note. The fuselage sides are cut over size on purpose which is good, and have to be cut down to the formers - the rear of the cockpit to F6, and the front of the fuselage and F3 which takes the 10mm top sheeting.

Here I have trimmed down the 3mm sheet to the former and added a cross support piece of 1/4 square to support the rear of the sheeting. Otherwise it is only sitting on 3mm wide. Probably belt and braces but there you go.

Incidentally

1. You can see that the top joint is close. Phil said that his had to have a fillet put in it to close the gap, but I had to trim both my sheets in the middle by about 6mm?
2. I have used white vinegar throughout and it is fine. I do heat it up in the microwave and apply it hot, and it seems to work fine. Just couldn't put up with the smell of amonia. Does it act as bleach if you spill it? I am in bad enough books with SWMBO as it is. I only make  6 models a year and I am meant to be obsessed??? As if....

Edited By Peter Garsden on 13/05/2018 08:36:50

[Peter Garsden]

I have to say that this build is not easy, what with bending lots of balsa, I have just had to cut the top of the rear fuselage square so that it can support the 10mm balsa sheet.

When the curves move in three dimensions you cannot get either a straight edge or a flexible ruler to it. I did my best to make it level but, once again it is a bit of a Horlicks with some gorilla glue filling what gaps there are.

[Peter Garsden]

Well I have now blocked up the front of the fuselage with a mix of 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch sheet. There is a lot of balsa to remove.

The sheet leading to the top of the fuselage behind the canopy has produced diffferent curves on each side, and in reality it should have been closed in and drawn together before the top sheeting was attached.

[Peter Garsden]

When I tried on the tailplane and fin, it didn't seem to line up. When I checked it over the plan the rear fuselage was too long to the rear and had to be trimmed by about 6mm. It fits the 6mm square rear post better and the lower skid better now.

I pieced together the fin, rudder, and tailplane. All fits perfectly. Don't think it will be long before this is finished.

[Peter Garsden]

The floor is awash with shavings - shame about the carpet, and my lungs are full of balsa dust. Nothing in comparison to what our brave men who flew them in the desert went through mind you.

Nice shape but there is more to remove under the nose. There are one of two gaps to fill but that shouldn't be a problem.

You can see where the front side piece broke. It has left a hollow which I will have to fill because the curve didn't take. Also a gap to fill lower down.

Will now have a break because we are off on a cruise up the Norwegian Fjords - mmm...nice.

[Peter Garsden]

The underneath of the rear fuselage is shown triangular in section with a point in the middle. There is no way you can shape it with the rear skid on, so I marked its position and planed to shape up to the edge before gluing it on. It is, however, better to wait until the rear fin post is glued to the rear first I think so that one can fit it. Actually it will work either way.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 19/05/2018 10:22:41

[Peter Garsden]

I usually get my aileron torque rods from Blackburn Model Supplies but they have been out of stock for over a month so I ordered from SLEC and they came the next day.

First job is to line them up and mark their position preparatory to dremmelling slots and holes for the supports. I am not looking forward to gluing on the trailing edge whilst avoiding gluing up the rods.

I did query whether one can span the dihedral of the outer wings, but this is easy by tracing a straight line from the upper half of the sub trailing edge to the bottom of the edge nearest the wing root. It has to sit at a slight angle, but it will be fine.

More to do when I return, but not far off now.

[Peter Garsden]

I do remember how difficult it was to make the grooves and indents for the plastic support pieces and the 14 swg wire when building the JP. I didn't have a dremmel then but have a Proxxon now, so I experimented with various different bits to do the job. I tried

1. Mini router bits - too coarse as they chew up the balsa too much
2. Diamond burr attachment - OK
3. Permagrit attachment and half round file - my favourite as the bar gouges out and the file which is fine grade finishes it off.

I would go as far as to say that without a dremmel this job is nigh on impossible.

To enlarge the access hole for the connecting rod I used a conical shaped permagrit tool.

It is a real fiddle of a job and needs adjusting/fitting/amending to get the wire and holders to line up. The same thing has then to be done to the separate pieces of balsa trailing edge, which have to be in 2 pieces because of the wing dihedral. I can see the temptation of installing servos in the wing as the fitting is easier.

 

Edited By Peter Garsden on 27/05/2018 15:02:22

[Peter Garsden]

When I checked the height of the control rod it was too long to clear the wing nut former, hence I had to trim the wire by about 10mm and then clip off some of the plastic horn. Better now than when installed.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 27/05/2018 15:05:43

[Peter Garsden]

Whilst this appears to be stating the bleeding obvious, here is a picture of a brush, which I used to coat the metal wire joiner with Vaseline - not shown the pot itself hope you don't mind - which is important as it stops the epoxy I used gluing up the rod. There is so little margin for error that you have to be very careful before applying the glue. I used 20 minute and it had started to set by the time I cam to apply the trailing edge.

Too much grease and the epoxy won't stick. Not enough and it will stick and the whole thing will have to come off again.

You can see how I glued everything up and held the wing in the vice with soft supports. It still marks the balsa but a spray of water will spring out the dent. Fortunately, post clamp removal both wires move and nothing has stuck - phew!!

Despite what is said above, the best method for the slots taking the wire is to cut them out in a vee shape with the knife and a ruler, then round them off with the dremmel, which will then follow the line of the cut. The biggest issue is the router bouncing out of the slot sideways caused by the torque rotation of the tool.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 29/05/2018 18:26:02

[Peter Garsden]

With the wing now finished, I need to mark a hole for the wing bolt. As I made an error with the support it is off centre. I used the trusty sharpened wing bolt which works well

This is the mark used for the drill

[Peter Garsden]

Couldn't resist a cheeky assembly, though now I have elevators and rudder.. Looking a bit like a Hurricane.

[Peter Garsden]

Not much left to build now - oil cooler and front air filter (or is it a hole to hide marmozettes?)

There is a need to leave a 3mm slot underneath to house the wing doubler and cut a hole for access to the wing retainer bolt in order to access the screwdriver

I used the same pointed wing bolt system to mark the position for the hole.

To get the right shape for the oil cooler I used a cardboard template drawn with carbon paper from the plan.

This part has turned out quite heavy. I think weight can be saved using blue foam and perhaps not filling it all with balsa. I am going to glue mine on rather than make it removable with magnets and reinforce it with some glass cloth. I think that to do so will protect the tail wheel at the back, which I am a bit heather worried by.

[Flyer]

Posted by Peter Garsden on 01/06/2018 21:41:45:

Not much left to build now - oil cooler and front air filter (or is it a hole to hide marmozettes?)

There is a need to leave a 3mm slot underneath to house the wing doubler and cut a hole for access to the wing retainer bolt in order to access the screwdriver

I used the same pointed wing bolt system to mark the position for the hole.

To get the right shape for the oil cooler I used a cardboard template drawn with carbon paper from the plan.

This part has turned out quite heavy. I think weight can be saved using blue foam and perhaps not filling it all with balsa. I am going to glue mine on rather than make it removable with magnets and reinforce it with some glass cloth. I think that to do so will protect the tail wheel at the back, which I am a bit heather worried by.

Looking good Peter. How much heavier do you think the oil cooler is before hollowing out ? Will it add much? And it's not far off the c of g , so is it critical?

Ade