Aeromaster

[Nigel R]

[Nigel R]

[Nigel R]

I made a jig of sorts to solder the side pieces in. The screws can be used to fine tune the position of the cabane. Still not really figured out how I'm going to jig the both sides up with the cross members yet.

[Martin McIntosh]

Don`t know what happened to the pics so here they are again.

[Nigel R]

Looking good Martin. Hope those cheques line up!

[Nigel R]

I'm experimenting with some more solid construction for my fuselage:

The lolly sticks are there to pack up the three shorter legs.

It's about 90% complete. One of the front diagonal members has an unmade joint, too be completed when this is all in place in the fuselage deck. Similarly, I have not added the lower rear crossmember yet.

[Nigel R]

Excuse my poor jokes. I haven't been out much lately.

Anyway. Couple more shots of the wirework:

[Nigel R]

[Nigel R]

The cabanes are About six ounces in total. Not sure if that is heavy for something like this size, or not.

Edited By Nigel R on 21/06/2020 22:21:45

[Martin McIntosh]

They do. Lots of work there.

[Nigel R]

[Bob Cotsford]

Posted by Martin McIntosh on 22/06/2020 08:36:53:

They do. Lots of work there.

I thought I'd buried memories of doing my Skybolt in similar style but this brought all the trauma flooding back

[FlyinBrian]

AHHHH Skybolt, NICE

I have a kit for one of them, must dig it out, It will make a change from the AM

Presently installing the engine etc in my Giant AM, looks like even with a 40cc lump up front it will still need nose weight.

[Martin McIntosh]

Is a 40 enough? I just happen to have a FTL, or is it FLT 52 side induction doing nothing.

[FlyinBrian]

Posted by Martin McIntosh on 22/06/2020 18:27:22:

Is a 40 enough? I just happen to have a FTL, or is it FLT 52 side induction doing nothing.

Martin

The instructions suggest 40cc up and considering the design is 30 plus years old I doubt the engines used then had the power of modern engines. Mine's a MVVS 40cc on a tuned pipe so should be OK, if not I have an Evolution (MVVS) 62 BNIB which I originally thought of using but decided to try the 40cc first. Though I doubt with the 62 I would need weight up front.

[Nigel R]

Skybolt... **LINK**

Bucket list for one day...

I thought Sanye did the Evolution engines? Was that the smaller ones?

[Nigel R]

A little more fettling of the wire work, and then it was time to drill some holes in the fuselage:

The wing bed has come out within 1/16" - I'm quite happy with that. As mentioned, the plan is to epoxy/stitch a 1/2" wide strip of 1/16" ply on the top, and then use filler or RTV or similar goop to get a proper close fit with the wing surface come final rigging time.

However, next job, inside the fuselage, where the cabanes plug in, I will reinforce with some 1/4" ply plates. I think I will try and get a small disc of 1/32" ply on the outside of the fuselage, too, to toughen up the exterior surface.

[Nigel R]

Onward with the cabanes - reinforcement (B&Q 4mm ply, holes reinforced with a quick soak of cyano) around the hole where the cabanes plug in:

The holes look a little off, as I was more concerned with the wing bed (top of cabans) being level, so any errors introduced during the cabane soldering have been taken up by fettling the exact point where these holes are.

With that done, time to move on to the front deck. First job, make up a half former from scrap, located at front of cockpit cutout, to hold the thick top sheets in place whilst they are shaped:

Then some sheets need to be added on, the first stage I just make the right (30 deg) angle at the lower edge:

not forgetting some med/hard reinforcement around the firewall joint, the top gets sanded flat ready for the last piece:

I cut the port sheet about 1/16 too short - oops. A job for some filler, later.

Anyway. I got the top sheet on, dug out the razor plane, and then produced this:

Er, I mean this:

It's only rough shaped so far - it needs attacking with the sanding block to get the curve looking nice. Then I need to move on to the tail end decking, which will be 3/32 sheet over formers with a bit less carve and sand.

When that is all in place it will be time to get the engine and radio installed and some preliminary set up done, while access is still good, before fuel proofing the front end and closing up the underneath.

 

 

Edited By Nigel R on 29/06/2020 11:51:22

[Martin McIntosh]

I have been busy too. Covering all done although the fus looks a little bare. I shall do a mock up of the assembled model, less u/c, when I have all the control surfaces on and post a couple of pics if this wind does not blow the whole thing next door. Still lots to do.

[Martin McIntosh]

Here we go. As you see it with nothing inside it is 90.6oz. The spinner is there just to see how one may look. With the two servos placed in the rear the cg is about 1" forward so with the u/c it will be even further and I suspect that tail end weight will be needed.

[AndyD]

thats very nice,i might still have to build one.

[Nigel R]

Superb, Martin.

You've probably thought of it already, why not use an acorn nut instead of a spinner? Might help move the CG back a fraction.

I've sanded the front off and made a start on my rear deck; I still have one former left to make before getting the sheeting attached.:

[Martin McIntosh]

I have a couple of alloy nuts from large electric motors but when I tried one on my Stampe it just unscrewed the moment I touched it with the starter, so no good. They can also bottom out inside the starter cone. The spinner shown was picked at random because it fitted over the prop and I shall probably file out a much smaller one.

[Nigel R]

Fair point. I have to admit not using one for anything above a 40 size two stroke in anger.

Not much progress to show for last nights labours:

The rear decking sheet (3/32 thick) is on and ready to receive a soft 1/4 top cap.

Those six scrappy looking crossbraces are just temporary things to keep the top of the sheet straight until the soft top is glued in place. They will be knocked out when that is on.

The lower side of the sheet could fit better - there is a gap. My fault. Never mind. It is stuck fast, on the inside, against the top longeron - so structurally ok. The gap can be filled. File this under "must try harder".

There must be a better method of doing this particular part of a fuse. The main problem is that the taper and the curve conspire to make the sheet wood bow out and resist staying in the "right" place.

In the past I have used the softest 3/8 sheet I could find and just sanded it back to a nice curve. I may yet revert to doing decks in this way.

[Martin McIntosh]

A fair bit more done now, although most of the time was spent on installing servos, making extension leads and getting those through the holes in the ribs. Today I have fitted and soldered up the u/c and spats which can still be removed for painting. No need for any bracing here because it is as solid as a rock. I thought that the cowl fitted OK but it was not so and have added some 6mm lite ply to the rear, much of which can be dremelled away later. Rx, switch, batteries and all wiring done.

Sorry about the out of focus shots.