SIMON CRAGG Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 A few of us have recently started seaplane / float plane flying, which I have to say is yet another fantastic branch of our brilliant hobby. So far, so good, but I am specifically interested in how others are waterproofing their models. It appears that there are several methods that would do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart83 Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Hi Simon, On my flying boats the area which is under the waterline is covered with glass cloth and resin, finished with primer and paint. The inside of the model gets a few coats of clear lacquer. Hope this helps, Bart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 There's some good information on this subject on the Windermere Model Waterplane Flyers site here: WMWF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 I too epoxy-glass the hull/fuselage, then paint. I film cover the wings but attempt to seal the edges with fuel proofer although mine are electric models. The inside of the fuselage I dope. The main problem is water ingress between the wing and fuselage. I have used thick foam tape and also silicone sealant but using clingfilm between the wing and fuselage while it dries to form a seal. Receivers I wrap with clingfilm and mount them 'high' so that they don't stay submerged in any water that finds it's way into the bottom of the fuselage. ESCs I seal both ends with silicon but if they do get wet shake out the water and place in an airing cupboard or on a warm radiator to dry out. I have only done this when flying from fresh water lakes, sea water might be another matter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Barclay Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 esc. 1/ remove outer cover and heat sink and heat sink tape. 2/ flatten fetts so that they all make perfect contact with heat sink. 3/ dip esc in thin epoxy. 4/ when tacky replace heat sink. I have done this with 2 esc. now and they will work underwater with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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