Piers Bowlan

Lightly loaded aeroplanes just fly better, whether that is a model or full sized B747. They will fly on less power, land and take off at lower speeds. Needlessly adding more materials to make them ever stronger is counter productive because of the weight gain. One complication I am keen on however are flaps, not just for low speed arrivals but to stop the long float in ground-effect before touchdown. Some years ago I remember watching a friend’s Mossie come creaming in over the threshold at low level before floating the length of the strip. Finally he landed in the ‘rough’ and ignominiously ending up inverted. That is when you do need a tough model! Of course he was coming in like a train because of the fear of the dreaded ‘tip-stall’. (I would have done the same) Flaps? A good servo is all you need in terms of added weight, a good trade off I feel.

According to his website, the Tony Nijhuis 72in Mosquito weighs 14lbs and has a wing loading of 40oz/squ ft. Tapered wings and a high wing loading is not a combination made in heaven. ☠️

David if you scroll down to Pete H’s 2nd post (on page 3 of the La7 Warbird Replica thread). You will find some photos of ‘cutting the ailerons free’. HERE. Regarding your comment about ‘no stringers or internal structure’, a veneered foam cored structure is stressed skin or monocoque so does not need any.

David, veneered foam core wings are sometimes supplied ‘intact’ in that you are required to mark out and then cut with a sharp scalpel the ailerons and flaps (when fitted). You then have to trim off some more material in order to face the cut edges with strips of balsa. These then are slotted to take the hinges. You will also have to bevel the ailerons to facilitate their movement up and down.

Good one Keith, make a change from the ME262 or over modelled A10 Warthog. Thinks; the plexiglas in the front might be a tad vulnerable in a less than perfect landing but it could always be painted balsa. Go on, build one and have the plan published in RCM&E!

More expense ( two motors/ESCs, wiring and bigger batteries) may put many people off a twin? Traditionally IC twins need to be bigger because of the weight, to keep the wing loading sensible. Bigger models take longer to build and a ‘scale’ mossy with its oval fuselage cross section will certainly be more challenging to build, which puts off people who just struggle to build a fuselage that is straight ( I empathise 🤣). HOWEVER, with Richard’s WR USP of simple ‘scalish’ build lines, foam wings and E-power using a couple of ubiquitous 2200mAh LiPos, it could be very appealing indeed ❤️. 60in span could be the sweet spot in terms of span if that wasn’t too big for a couple of 2200mAh batteries?

I will go for that option.

Presumably ply, not lite-ply? Could the retract mounting plate be made thicker- more meat for the screws to bite into ( yum!) Alternatively use bolts poking upwards (wire lock buried heads so they don’t rotate). What I am driving at is, I am fretting about the gear being ripped out after an ‘arrival’ onto none too short grass. Maybe I should just keep taking the Valium or get another hobby. 😉

Foam core wings are easy and quite satisfying to build too. Polystyrene foam is cheap and plentiful. Reinforced with carbon fibre strips and covered with brown paper with PVA, are ridged and quite light too. As an alternative, I can vouch for Bill kits, their wings are well made and reasonably priced. Saves a lot of time too.

Richard is in the ‘business’ of selling kits and probably the reason why there aren’t many kits of the Zero or Nakajima is because there isn’t a lot of demand for them? As for the Betty Bomber Keith I think you could be on your own with that one. We probably all have our own list of ‘interesting’ (kwerky) or sometimes ugly planes to model but they would not be very successful as kits. Personally I think a kit of the DH Hornet would be great in preference to a Mosquito but I don’t think there would be many other takers.

Yes, BEB was a really great contributer and moderator on the forum. Much missed.

Beautiful work, but ... Wot, no pilot! 😮

Either would be good for me Richard.

Geoff, after covering with brown paper I just seal with another coat of slightly diluted PVA before painting. I apply PVA to both sides otherwise the tailplane or fin may warp as it dries. You end up with a smooth satin finish which takes paint well.

Are you using differential aileron John. I just wondered if adverse yaw might be causing issues with rolls. Perhaps a larger fin area might help too?