Stuphedd Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 https://youtu.be/dYo_mijPkhc gave the FP40 to my sun to run and tune up , seems to be OK, Hi ED how do YOU do the anndising , I used to use Dylon , does it still exist I wonder ? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 (edited) Hi Stuphedd. I use Rit dye . Dylon seems to have changed and didn't take on my first attempts. The Rit seems OK but some colours do washout a lot when sealing especially the yellow. I've also tried printer ink . It takes well although still problems with the yellow when sealing. Professional dyes are available but do cost a lot. I can't vouch for the longevity of colour fastness or UV effect on the dyes. There are some interesting ( and some very boring ) videos on "how to anodise" on YouTube, although the majority are American and they can buy any chemicals they need at Walmart ! Your main issue will be to find a suitable electrolyte as sulfuric acid is now a controlled substance in the UK and an explosives licence is needed to buy it. Pool PH balancer ( sodium bi-sulphate ) or phosphoric acid work and are still freely available . The blue parts on the Magnum 10 were intended to be a bright metallic green and pre sealing looked brilliant. As it was sealed most of the yellow washed out leaving the Co,our you see. It looked good so left it . I will try to get the yellow to set in future attempts. Edited June 4, 2021 by Engine Doctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 (edited) Hi Stuphedd . Here are some parts I anodised recently. The Greens and reds are Rit Dyes and the blue Frog head Is a printer ink used as a dye . The parts have to be buffed to a high polish to get a good finish as any marks will show and look worse when anodised . Once finished I give them a good spray with WD 40 and leave in a plastic bag overnight then a polish with a soft cloth the next day Edited June 4, 2021 by Engine Doctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuphedd Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 Thanks for that , its a long time since I used to "do " it, some worked well others were messy failures , but yours definitely look very professional, and make the engines look "real " so I might try again . cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 Jus converting an OS 15 LA to diesel. I wanted to keep it the blue colour but ther was a fair ammount of burnt oncastor so had to soak it in some thinners to soften it and the blue painted finish came off in patches . So it was cleaned up and bead blasted to a nice silver . The Cylinder head on the LA is a square section so was a bit more tricky to match this . The Final result is quite good and should look very good once anodised . The LA felt good and when stripping it I was surprised to find that the chrome had come off the cylider ! Typical OS A new piston and liner is now fitted and the engine feels very bouncy when flicked over. More pics when anodising has been done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Wolfe Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 On 24/06/2021 at 05:59, Engine Doctor said: The LA felt good and when stripping it I was surprised to find that the chrome had come off the cylider ! Typical OS A new piston and liner is now fitted and the engine feels very bouncy when flicked over. G'day Engine Doctor. So was it really chrome? My understanding is that OS cylinder bores were nickel plated and notorious for 'peeling', especially if run a bit lean. Regards * Chris * Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 6 hours ago, Christopher Wolfe said: G'day Engine Doctor. So was it really chrome? My understanding is that OS cylinder bores were nickel plated and notorious for 'peeling', especially if run a bit lean. Regards * Chris * Hi Chris. I believe the actual name for the plating is Nickasil . I used the term chrome as this type of engine construction is classed as ABC (Aluminium,Brass,Chrome) Nicasil was / is used by some car manufacturers like BMW JAGUAR and probably others whi have also had serious failures costing the car owner serious money. Whatever you call it the failure rate on OS engines made from the 90's onwards appears to have a higher failure rate than any other make. Earlier OS engines with Nicasil plated cylinders didn't fail like this. Take the now defunct ASP, SC etc , I have worked on hundreds of them and can't recall any plating peeling off even after serious abuse by their owners. Even MDS were not that bad with cylinder platin.g I don't really think that running lean was the cause but was used as an excuse for a cheapened manufacturing process Some years ago when this problem first appeared I had three OS 32 SX repaired FOC by Ripmax. I used two of them that failed again after a short flying time . They were broken for spares, cases crank etc. The third is still in its box waiting for a good ASP or SC 32 to come along as a piston/cylinder donor. It may just stay there as a reminder since ASP etc ceased trading ! Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) I finished anodising the LA yesterday and assembled and test run it today . Runs very well although starting , if flooded can be a bit of a trick. The compression with the screw fully out will allow it to pop but not run but still kicks when its way too rich or oily wich raises the comp ratio. I found this out on the first start as it had plennty of oil in the case . I alway like to make sure they are well oiled for the first start after any strip down. Anyway any more I do will have a slightly shorter or larger diameter contra piston to allow it to de-compress more. This LA and the Magnum 10 are "O" ring type heads/contra-piston seal so I made some comp screw locks as these are prone to loosening in flight but are much easier and quicker to make than an iron CP set up . I plated both of the Comp screw and locking arm with Nickel to give Chrome effect as a change from the blue/black finish. It is a lively little engine and runs very nicely . First run on a 9 x 7 toplflite wooden prop and not the prop in the pic as that was light and was a bit of finger whacker ! The test prop I think would bog down a glow version but the diesel seems to have more torque. I didn't do a rev test but there is plenty of power and its a new piston cylinder so i'll give it a chance to bed in a bit . With the silencer fitted it is very quiet ,quieter I think than the glow version but it was proped with a quite high pitch . The colour of the anodising as supposed to be Emerald green but it appears to be an Aqumarine Blue ( Greeny Blue ) to the naked eye . The camera picks up mainly on the blue . I will have to buy some Dedicated Green anodising dye for future projects as green seems a dificult colour to achieve (if anyone knows of a cheap type of dye that works for ali anodising please let me know . I did intend to anodise the prop driver but it appeared to be a di-cast item that doesnt take anodising at all well so just gave it a polish up. Edited June 30, 2021 by Engine Doctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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