Ok convert me!

[Crash dummy]

Cheers Tom, Just looked at the video.

[Allan Jordan]

 Hi Tom, Watched the video, loved it... Allan

[Crash dummy]

Hi Tom, Ive priced the component parts for the "Calmato Sport" conversion in your linked video. At the risk of killing this thread here and now, there is no way i would ever consider shelling out around 200 euros (god knows how much for spare batteries) to do a conversion. I can buy a Calmato Sport (electric) off the shelf for 125 euros. The kit comes with brushless motor. So far, so good? Now come the problems. As you all know i am an ic modeller. The Calmato Sport requires the following according to my information. 1. 3 cell 11.1v/2000 mah/LiXX 2. Suitable charging equipment. Now tell me this ... If you were in my position now and considering an electric model based on 1 and 2 which "bits" would you buy? ... Thats all i want to know. You fellas are the experts. Clearly i could pay a fortune for a battery or a charger. What i would like is your views and experience on both. Cheap sounds good, but perhaps a waste of money. Equally i dont want any kit that has NIKE written all over it if you see what i mean! Regards as always, John.

[Tom Foreman]

Cheap LiPo's can be had here

My favourite charger is here remember you'll need a 12v psu or 12v field battery (don't use your car battery, it won't last very long).

Oh and make sure you read up on all the safety requirements for charging lipos, the basics are;

1. don't charge un-attended
2. don't charge in the model
3. don't charge if damaged or puffed
4. double check the charger is set to correct voltage (4.2v per cell max) and don't charge above 1C (2.2 A for a 2200 mAh Lipo)
5. If you use the balance charger above it is virtually fool proof

Enjoy

Tom

PS- don't forget a LiPo / Brushless Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) rated to about 40A, depending on your motors requirement. Always use an ESC that is equivalent or more than the max current you expect to pull through your motor + prop combination. You can always prop down if you pull too much power, and you'll need a meter to check how much current your pulling as well.

[Tim Mackey]

The battery is fairly easy - there are many suitable and good 3s 2A packs about, and you dont have to stick ridgidly to 2A  - go up a tad for something like this at a shade over £20.You say Lixx which suggests you are open to any of the lithium based cells as choice - at the budget end of things, forget the LiFePO4 stuff and stick with Li-Polymer.

Charger choice is alittle harder, because you should really consider something that will give a degree of future proofing  - you could pick up a fairly basic and cheap charger that will do the job for you on any particular battery, but trust me - you will soon acquire another battery or 3 which then requires something a little better.

 IMO something like this is as basic as it gets to fit the above criteria. Up to 5s compatible, lithium, nickel. and PB and includes inbuilt balancer with the right connectors too ! Not bad I reckon for under £35.

There are many of both these items to choose from, and I am not particualry endorsing any one item or supplier here...just giving examples as I am sure you understand. HTH

[Tim Mackey]

Tom and I posted together - again

I agree that the electrolite packs are excellent, and I did "recommend" them after doing some testing in a large EDF unit some time back.

However, I have an issue with the sole supplier, and  until another distributor is found, they are, sadly, off my list!

[Bruce Richards]

I would go for

a battery like this

and

a charger similar to this

You will also need a power supply for the charger. If you can't make one out of an old PC power supply you could get one like this.

These are just examples I have chosen but similar items would do the job. In fact I have been using similar items for the last year.

You do not need to buy them fron ebay there are many other suppliers at similar prices in the UK. 

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Hi Timbo, you didn't expect to say forget the LiFePO4 stuff and not get a reply from me did you? I believe there is definitely an argument for using A123 at the budget end. Particularly with the Calamato Sport sized models. Depends how you want to go, you pays your money and makes your choice as they say. A 6S A123 pack at around £60 will fly it extremely well. More importantly it will last a long time, pretty much no matter what you do to it. If you want a few packs and not to charge at the field, then LiPo's are going to be quite a bit cheaper. But however I look after them, they need replacing over and over compared to the err.. life of a LiFe

[Tim Mackey]

Hi Chris - yes I know....but I was just answering his direct and very specific question about which units to purchase based on Q1 and Q2. I am a fan ( albeit still not a big one just yet ) of the LiFes but they are just not mainstream enough yet to be competively priced.

And again, YES I know in terms of overall life etc they win over Lipos hands down, but initial cost is still probably way too high for him?

[Tom Foreman]

But a bit bulky and heavy for smaller models, as it now looks like he isn't going for a conversion but a electric version. Still you might fit a 4s1p A123 pack in it, depends on the model.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

I have to agree for smaller models. My smaller 3S models have been disappointing on A123's. The extra weight and bulk has just been too much. My fellow club members Multiplex Mentor has been extremely successful on 4S A123 from Puffin. That is likely to be the lower size/power where they start to come into their own.

[Crash dummy]

For my benefit here, what is an A123. Obviously a battery of some sort. I managed (i think) to decode the 4Cell bit, but dont quote me on that. Remember please that i am trying to learn something here. John

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Crash dummy]

But can power a 40 Eric? ... Seriously now, this is starting to get out of hand for me.

[Crash dummy]

Your comment about a slippery eel comes to mind!

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Crash dummy]

Eric, i was only joking. However, electric is a whole new ball game for me. The only similar thing seems to be that your stuff also has two wings! .. Dont quote me on that one either!!

[Crash dummy]

Well read you lot. It seems this thread has now gone past the 1500 marker.

[Crash dummy]

Lets please keep the next 1500 on track. I still have a thing or thousand to learn about this electric junk .. i mean stuff! John

[Frank Skilbeck]

Eric Bray wrote (see

Only one difficulty there, John, you cannot measure an electric motor in cc's!

There are equivalent lecciesto a 40, and upwards, but you are starting to get seriously expensive!

Timbo is the best person to point that question at.

I don't know about seriously expensive, I've got a Turnigy TR42-50A 700 plus 60A UBEC ESC in my e-flite Beaver, turned a 13 x 6 at 8700rpm on a 4s battery, it was too much power so I've put a 12 x 6 on which it spins at 8900 rpm (with less amps), motor and esc cost around 75 US$ (£40 then but around £55 now thanks Gordon), 4s 3200 mah Lipo cost around 60 US$ each (£40 now). More like a 52 FS than 40 TS but not far off.

Timer on Tx is set at 11 mins and uses about 80% of the battery.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

John

 Well done for sticking with this, many people either give up before starting or "have a go" and give up at the first sign of problems.

 I have many 40 sized and above electric models. And it doesn't have to be that expensive. Although starting from scratch, the costs can add up right at the beginning.

I would recommend the use of A123 batteries at this size of model. Others think they are too expensive. But I think any beginner would struggle to get more than 50 flights out of his first set of LiPo's, and far less of any of a number of simple mistakes are made. Whereas A123's are likely to give to 500 or more.

A 5S (yes 5Cells in series) Lipo could cost say £40-£50  Whereas the equivalent 6S A123 is around £60 from Puffin. 

 I'll do a complete example "low" cost setup in the next post, see what you think about the cost.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

OK there are a number of parts to this if you are starting from scratch.

NOTE: I'm going to aim at the very cheapest by buying from China direct. I don't always do this as I believe we should support the UK too. There are suppliers in the UK that sometimes get close to these prices. I'll do prices in $ and convert at the end.

You'll need the kit that isn't directly involved with the model, and then the models electric setup.

A. List of common use kit for all your models:-

1. A charger , many and varied. If you want to charge A123's in 20 mins at the field then how about Under $80 Charger
2. A supply battery to charge from. I use a Leisure battery and suorce from the UK. From Ebay say £60
3. Something to measure volts/current/power so you know you are not overloading any of your powertrain. This one even has a built in servo tester for controling the speed controller when testing. $35 power meter

I make that under £80 +£60 = £140  You'll need these or similar whichever electrics you do. 

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Now for the items for a well powered 40 sized model.

1. Franks 4250A-700 motor is ideal at about $30
2. A Super Simple 60A ESC is under $20 (this replaces a throttle servo too)
3. a 6S A123 Battery from Puffin under £70
4. Sundries like balance charge adapter lead and some plugs etc to connect battery to speed controller say another £5

Total in the model $30+$20 = £35  add £70 and £5 comes to £110 to put in the plane.

This is for a setup with only one battery, but it will charge safely, without taking it out of the model.
It will charge in 10-20 mins depending how much you took out.
It will suffer less from the cold and gives full power right to the end of the flight.
It will last much longer than a LiPo.
A second battery would mean pretty much continuous flying...

I hope that gives you some idea of the costs. It also means no more buying of fuel too, which is not insignificant these days.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

And, the battery can be used in other models...

[Crash dummy]

Thanks ever so much Chris, You are right. i wont just chuck the towel in at the first problem! Your figures almost made nice reading! i worked out some figures the other day and come up with a higher figure for the basics. My main worry is still batt packs. Are they as awkward as ive been lead to think, or just another component? I certainly have no problem with buying Chinese or British. I live in Germany and buy Austrian at the moment! Ile look into your details on prices and let you know how i get on. John.