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Looking for 16 ohms


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Timbo & Phil

One LED on the charger kept flashing 8 minutes longer than the one that remained steady ie not blinking. Have now discharged with a 12V 21 W car bulb (flasher) through the wattage meter .To summarise;It took 5 hrs to go from 8.29V down to 7.7V in 5 hrs connected to Rx & 5  ser vos -Followed by discharging on the bulb for 45 minutes -then checked off load voltage after 5 mins rest  to be 6.4 V  The battery is now back on the balance charger at 1000mA. Should be "cooked" in about another hour .It's a bit dodgy checking cell voltages off a balance plug isnt it ! Dont like it . Just hope the end voltage has increased slightly again .Fingers crossed .Quite enjoying it all actually !  PS dont know what I'd do without my lipo charge level sheet .Thanks again Timbo & thanks a lot to you all with your suggestions for my resistor .I bet we know the resistance of just about everything in the house ! I know I do.including 'er indoors' hair drier .I must add that ,theoretically ,my bulb doesnt seem to have been a likely candidate but once I'd made a few leads up & adopted the "suck it and see" approach  .I just looked at the wattage meter and decided that at a 1.3 A reading   was near enough to 1C .Thanks again to you all .f you're interested I'll post the results of the recharge in a while .  This must be very boring to ic enthusiasts ! Then  again I'm not going off thread (as is usual) now you experts can tell me I've got it all Wrong !

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The flashing LED is only indicating balancing action NOT charging.

Yes checking potential across those tiny pins of a balance plug needs to be done with care !

Of course the better balancer chargers these days display individual cell voltages on the screen

dont be afraid to charge at 1C..which should take around an hour or slightly longer.

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I reckon you want me to spend even more money on equipment     I'm saving up for a nice big 4st actually & a silencer that is efficient to go with it and---and---and        However I do like the idea of the Rx lipo so i dont have to keep switching on & off to conserve power .I suppose the next "must have" is a LED battery indicator on the model ?

  By the way -I can only charge at 500mA ,1000 mA or 2000mA  so exactly 1C is impossible    .Its still charging by the way after 1 hr 10 mins --Now I have the job of mixing Xmas cake ingredients for 'er indoors whilst watching all my meters etc !

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Myron, a very useful high-current variable resistor that I've used for years is just a 1 Kilowatt electric fire element: the wire-wound bar type, about half an inch thick. In normal 240v operation these take about 4 amps, so the resistance is about 60 ohms, but varies a bit with current and temperature. If you can find a large croc. clip, the type with rounded jaws that fits on a car battery terminal, you can clip it onto the bar and move it along to get any resistance you want up to the maximum.  Then all you need is a cheap digital multimeter, £5 or less from Maplins, which has a 10 amp current range, adjust the clip to set your discharge current to whatever you want, and off you go.
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John    Thanks for tips  I do have all the gear & more you mention .I have found a 21W/12V bulb which gives a 1C discharge (near as damn it according to my calcs ) Have run the lipo down & up three times now .All seemed to go well til the last cycle ,the capacity being 1100 mAh -not bad for a "dead" 2s lipo rated at 1345 mAh ! (discharges were run down from 8.25 V (90% charge according to Timbos chart) to 6V off load  ie 10 minutes after disconnecting from discharge -in other words I found I had to carefully discharge the last 2 mins to get it right down to the 6 V figure.(about 5V UNDER load) Only concern is that a bead of grey "stuff" appeared on one corner about 3 mm dia which I / she picked off easity   Should I do another cycling or not .I must admit I'm a bit p----d off with the whole business .Any tips gratefully received as long as I dont have to waste any more money (Just before I go back to proper engines etc full time)

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