Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 As promised here is my take on the Pilot - RC Slick 67" build. On unboxing the quality of the parts etc would give Extreme Flight a run for its money for a lot less cash. I like to start by assessing the fixing of the motor and get that achieved. To do that I put the U/C legs on to simplify the job. There is an additional motor box extension frame that can be used, but given the motor I am using (Turnigy G160) I may be able to use some of my steel stand offs if measurements permit as previous reviews have been critical of the extension box as being rather flimsy. Any way we will see. Firstly, there is no manual with the kit so I had to download a generic manual from Pilot RC and print it as there isn't a specific one for the Slick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 U/C legs sized up and fitted which was simple enough although the internal nuts were a bit fiddly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 (edited) There bags of bits all separated and the fuselage internals seem pretty good quality. Edited November 30, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 (edited) The scant information on the motor's specification is as follows :- 290Kv for use with 9-10 cells, Max current 78A and an 85-100A HV ESC is recommended. I will be using a 120A opto ESC only because it was the one I used in my Capiche refurbishment. That set up was fine for a 11 lb+ aerobatic model which was more than capable of dragging the Capiche 140 around which is way heavier than the Slick will turn out to be given it is largely designed as an modern electric aerobat. Next workshop visit will be to fit the motor. Edited November 30, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 Watching with interest.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 5, 2021 Author Share Posted December 5, 2021 (edited) Got a bit of a decision to make after some thought. My intention was to use my Turnigy ROTOMAX G160 (replacement for 160 glow) in this build. Now the spec. is as follows:- 9-10 cells (10S) RPM 245kv for use with planes weighing 5.4-9kg (12-20 Ibs). Bearing in mind the weight of this aircraft should be in the region of 3.7kg - this motor seems to be rather overkill. Further cons are it weighs 632g and would require two 5S lipos wired in series (extra weight). The motor was fitted to my refurbished Capiche 140, but I have only used it three times, hence the original thought to use it. Now looking at the Pilot-RC recommendations for its 67" kits in its power pack set, the Pilot-RC motor looks to be a rebadged Dualsky GA2000.4 V2 X-motor (20cc equivalent) https://www.hobbyplastic.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=250_426_427&products_id=11153 The spec of the two smaller motors appears to be the same. The big plus for me is its weight at 350g! Furthermore, it only requires ONE 6s lipo to be used. No brainer really don't you think? Edited December 5, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 Decided to press on with the power plant. I decided to go with the Dualsky GA2000 if only for the weight saving and the pre-drilled holes/captive nuts in the stand off motor box match the supplied motor mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 When the motor box stand off is fitted the gap between the inner wall and the cowl opening is around 72-73mm. The length of the motor including supplied mount is 62mm therefore I will need some extra stand offs of around 10-11mm to allow for correct motor mounting. Anyway more of that later. Off to work then. I loose fitted the extension box (which will need strengthening later on) all good here. First I drilled holes in the extension box so that it could be glued and bolted to the I/C wall mounting. 30 minute epoxy made up for this job. I am using M4 bolts and nuts here with blue thread locker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 Fortunately the motor mount fixing lugs of the Dualsky motor match the pre-drilled holes on the motor wall saving some time thankfully. The M4 bolts for the motor are supplied with the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 (edited) Next issue is that to fix the motor mount to the motor wall it has to be unbolted from the rear of the motor as supplied. This is because there is no clear access for the bolts when fixing the motor to the extension box. Now that was a so-and-so as the bolts wouldn't easily turn so I had to apply gentle heat to them as I didn't want break the bolts. Fortunately that did the trick. Edited December 7, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 It was a simple task to test fit the mount. I found some spare 10 mm stand offs from my I/C days and test fitted. Next visit to the work shop will see the motor finally fitted. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Good engineering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 8, 2021 Author Share Posted December 8, 2021 Cheers Jonathan. The wooden standoff box pegs that glue into main motor wall didn't look as if they would hold anything therefore I chose to bolt it as well as glue. There are a few report on t'internet where in extreme cases the motor in it's desire to go somewhere else parted company with the fuselage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Better safe than sorry...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 Before embarking on motor mount strengthening i decided to make sure the motor and cowl line up correctly. While there is hole drilled in the fuselage former (with claw nut) for the top of the cowl, the bottom fixing points had to be drilled. I marked out the distance in the time honoured fashion with masking tape such that the hole to be drilled was 3 cms away from the marking point. It was then a straightforward job to drill and fit the bolts. By the way the three bolts required to fit the cowl were not supplied and therefore I had to dig out some short M3 bolts from stock to do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 On removing the cowl it was time to refit the motor and check the positioning with the cowl. Because it is awkward to fit the motor bolts on the mount I used a magnetic extending rod which is really helpful. All bolts finished with a dab of blue threadlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 I checked the alignment and while the photo is not clear the prop driver does protrude through the cowl by 2-3mm which is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 Next a bit of reinforcement. There is a piece of carbon fibre laminated ply supplied to be stuck on the top of the first part of the motor box. I used 30 minute epoxy here. There is also some triangular stock in the kit to aid reinforcement. Now the manual shows a ply triangular support for both electric and I/C options. Once again not supplied. I had fashion a piece out of liteply and glued as shown below. All put aside to dry while i think about the next steps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 14, 2021 Author Share Posted December 14, 2021 I have a bit of a problem to solve with the ZTW Opto ESC. Where I would normally attach the ESC seems a bit of a no-no. There carbon fibre rods located underneath the motor box is where I would normally make use of (were even big enough which it isn't) pointing the motor wires in the right direction. The rear of the ESC rests on the former making it not level. I have tried inside the fuselage too, but I am concerned about the cooling aspect of doing that and also this leaves little room on the platform for the lipo. The one plus is the motor wires are in line with the ESC connections that way. I don't really want to buy a smaller ESC purely in terms of cost. I may have wait until I come to balance the CoG before I can make a final decision. I am a bit stumped at the moment, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 One thing I am going to try tomorrow is this - I have some thick balsa sheet which I will fit (then glue) either side of the base of the former such that it is the same height as bottom of the former. I will laminate it with a thin piece of ply thereby giving a level base for the ESC to be fitted underneath the motor box. That's the theory anyway and I wanted the platform to be as light as possible. Screw or bolt holes for the ESC will be reinforced with thin cyano. Fortunately the ESC is narrow enough to fit between the CF rods. I will have a go at this tomorrow to see if it works and report back here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 Right, on with some woodwork. Couple of slabs of 1/4" balsa measured and laminated with ply. Glued to the fuselage platform with 30 minute epoxy. The rear part of the slab/ESC has velcro attached as to fit a screw here would impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 All fitted nicely with a couple of servo screws and for belt and braces a plastic tie. All the ESC wires are fed through the frame with easy access from the platform internally 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Back to the manual for the next step of the tail wheel assembly. I have seen some moans and groans online about how flimsy it is. Well having examined and fitted it the assembly it well up to task for this size of aircraft. The problem arises if landings are in disciplined and the plane is dumped tail first to ground. Best to perfect the flare technique. I temporarily fitted the rudder to help alignment. The area where the tail wheel is screwed on is plenty strong enough with C/F ply installed to the frame. The supplied coupler for the steering rod is gorilla glued in. Edited December 16, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 Off comes the rudder to fit the stab. The prefabricated build here is excellent and the wing slots in tight without movement. 30 minute epoxy used here. The rear post is pre-cut and film applied ready to glue back in WHEN the elevators have been installed. I am altogether impressed with the kit quality, by the way. One the rudder/ elevators are glued in then I will fit the servos. That all comes on another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 On with the build. Elevator hinging glued in with epoxy (30m) after oiling the hinge joint to counteract the glue. then glued into the stab. Then removed piece of the fin post is which I test fitted back, but a bit of wood needs removing from the post segment to allow for full movement of the elevators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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