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Profilm on Elapor?


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Hi folks,

Buiding a Mutiplex Blizzard and am not too happy about the ridges left in the wing and fuz after sticking in the GRP "wire" bits.

Am seriously considering using lightweight filler (spackle), coating the whole thing with Balsaloc and then covering using Profilm.

Does anyone have experience of using Profilm on Elapor?

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I have just spent considerable time taking off lots of little bumps off my Windrider Fox (also EPP) with a cool iron, then used some spackle to fill holes left by the radio installation. Having rubbed it all down, I am left with a rather 'furry' epp fuselage, which I think I will have to seal with PVA and then paint with acrylic.

I'm not entirely sure this will be all worth it though, as the finish is rather uneven. I am already thinking that I should have tried to live with all the 'pimples', as I did with my Easystar, and just get on with flying the damn thing rather than battling to get a good finish after all my fiddling about! Besides, you can't see any of the pimples when its flying, and I'm not really sure they affect the flight much, if at all.

I certainly wouldn't apply profilm - past experience of applying signwriters vinyl to epp models has shown that when it shrinks the model distorts. I say fly it - now!

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Hi Matthew,

I have found that 500 grade wet & dry paper (used dry) is ideal for sanding off all those little bumps and poor castings such as the leading edge.

Have used it for both my Easy Glider and the Blizzard now being built.

It does leave a nice smooth finish with no fuz. (no pun intended).

I have tried profilm on a piece of scrap elapor (wrecked EG fuz) and it seems to take 250 deg far (120C) OK.

300 deg far (150C) and the elapor starts to flatten.

As per your Fox, I also want it to look good.

The question therefore seems to be that, with an initial coating of Balsaloc, will 250 deg far be hot enough to stick the Profilm - testing without Balsaloc seems to stick it OK - will try a bit using Balsaloc aswell.

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I think Ben is right - cover your wing with film and it's sure to distort, regardless of the heat setting. It's not a veneered foam core, remember. Maybe you could hold the wing down somehow as you work?

Thanks for the tip with the W&D paper - I will give the fuz a lick tomorrow. Since my post I have given the Fox fuz a brushed coat of Johnstone's best Quick Drying One Coat Brill. White Satin (intended for the kitchen skirtings, but hey...), and it has left a rather good finish, with just the right amount of sheen. I figured that being acrylic it wouldn't hurt to try, and I hear that Depron modellers use such paint all the time. It seems to have taken to the EPP rather well, but it remains to be seen how it stands up to the riggors of braken and heather. I guess I could just get the tin out again!

I will post some pics in the Windrider Fox thread as soon as poss.

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Look forward to the pics.

Have taken some of the Blizzard build and will post them when I've finished.

In considerstion of the large amount of work involved, the result that will be achieved, and the potential for damage or warping, perhaps discretion is the better part of valour.

Have decided to cover up as many of the ruts as possible with the stickers/decals provided and to go and fly the thing.

After all, you won't see the ruts when it's in the air at about 100 mph!

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just do a search on google for 'laminating film' ....try not to buy 100m though unless youve got lots of mates who want some ...try the 125 micron ...170 is probably as far as you want to go ....

P.S  it doesnt shrink

And theres a whole load of posts on it here on another forum

http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/topic,62202.0.html 

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