Peter Miller Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Hi Brian. When the plan first came out I thought that there were some slight problems with the ribs. However no one on this forum has complained about that. You can just check the rib lengths against the wing plan. As you can see there have been quite a few built and everyone has been happy with her. Enjoy your build and feel free to ask any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 Hi Brian, As far as I can remember when building her I didnt find any problems. she still flying today! and still looks great. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Thanks for that, Peter and Andy. Yes, I'll be sure to ask if I have any questions and will let you know how I get on! Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Hello again Peter, In preparation for the build of Bootlace, I thought that I'd better first check out the availability of some of the less commonplace items that you've specified - such as the carbon fibre undercarriage and the wheel spats. This led to the conclusion that it was, perhaps, not such a good idea to have waited 8 years before starting! For the benefit of any others who might be considering doing the same in the future, Nexus Modelling Supplies report that the ATS 232 is obsolete and I can get no response from the advertised number for ATS Mayneline. Micro Mold appear to have stopped trading and the advertised number for David Stapleton Engineering (who may have taken on their business) is not recognised! However, on the plus side, I have discovered Carbon Copy (www.carboncopyuk.com). They can supply alternatives that appear to be a good match to your original specification. For example, having measured up the originals from the Bootlace plan, their carbon composie undercarriage legs CCU11 appear to be pretty much the correct size and their S3 wheel spat set also looks as if it would fit the bill. However, I thought that I'd await your comment before shelling out the cash! Finally, one thing that has puzzled me - in the text of the article you use the words "tail wheel" and in the big photo at the start of the article in the Jan 2004 edition of RCME there, indeed, is a tailwheel. However, on the plan I find a 16SWG wire skid in place of the tail wheel! Just curious as to why this is so, and if you think that the wire skid is a better option than an actual wheel? Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Hi Brian You might want to read this thread ** Link to forum thread and then check that they send you a true Carbon Fibre undercarriage made with the correct resin, rather than Glass Fibre with a layer of carbon on each side... perhaps phone them before ordering to check the materials used! The photograph of the CCU11 looks like it has a lighter colour core material although it is hard to tell properly on a small out of focus picture. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDF Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 You might like to try here for Dave Stapleton Engineering, thats certainly the address were I used to buy my FAI rubber from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 I did use Carbon undercarriages for a time but they were expensive. If the one on the Carbon Composites website matches the dimensions it should be fine. I believe that Ripmax do an aluminium undercarriage that may be a near match, I must admit that I have gone over to wire undercarriages now as it saves time searching out the right U/C for any model. I am pretty sure that David Stapleton has retired completely. Tail wheels and skids are pretty much interchangeable. The wheels may be a slightly better option on tarmac. I often tend to use which ever I have in the salvage box at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Thanks Peter and everyone - advice and suggestions noted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 Hi Brian, when I was building her, like Peter said the carbon undercarriages were very expensive, so I used a pair of legs from a crashed Super Air and painted them black, if you look at my pictures you might be able to see, they fitted prefectly plus saved me a packet! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 Hi Brian, Any up dates on your Bootlace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hello Andy, Thanks for your interest. It has been slow progress so far, mainly because I've been distracted by other priorities. I've got most of the materials from the model shop and this very weekend (just before your post) made a start on cutting out a kit of parts. Cut out the fuselage sides and am now wondering whether I'd be better to invest in a scroll saw to do the formers or whether to manage with a hacksaw and stanley knife. I suppose it depends on whether I'm likely to do much more building off plan. As long as I don't get too busy at work again, my plan is to try and have it done by the long summer days. We'll see! Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Buy the scroll saw. doing it your way will be soul destroying. You can buy ordinay hand fretsaws. which do not cost much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks for the advice, Peter, I'll buy the scroll saw this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Hello Peter, I have now prepared a kit of parts for the fuselage and am about to start assembly. However, before doing so, I just wanted to ask you whether there ought to be a hole drilled somewhere in F2 for the throttle snake. I see the one in the top of F3, but the plan doesn't show any provision for the snake through F2. The big hole up the middle of F2 is for the fuel tank so it can't go that way! Just thought I'd better check with you before starting to glue everything together. Thanks, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Yes, there should be holes for the throttle run in the formers between the engine and servo. I was very remiss in leaving them out in those days. These days I put the throttle cable holes in all formers. Those who got the email may wonder what I was talking abou! Edited By Peter Miller on 06/02/2013 18:18:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Thanks Peter! I'm sure I'll be back again for more advice over the coming weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 No problem, any time I can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hello Peter, After being prodded into action by Andy in January (and as a positive spin-off from being very quiet at work at the moment) I've been making good progress and have now nearly finished the fuselage. Thoroughly enjoying the build! However, I've now arrived at the stage where the cowl needs to be built around the engine which I'd guessed would be quite interesting, shall we say! I can see that, if I'm not very careful, I'll end up locking the engine inside the cowl for ever. I'm guessing that you must have created a sufficiently large cut-out on the starboard side to enable the engine to lift in and out that way. I was planning to use M3 caphead bolts and nylock nuts to fasten the engine to the mount. I should be able to arrange it so that I can get a hex key into the bolt-heads - but won't be able to get at the nuts without drilling four access holes on the other side which will look a mess. I don't see these in the photos, so how did you do it? Any tips welcome! Cheers, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Harking back to earlier discussions about Ian Peacock's involvement with a version of Bootlace/Miss Tangerine, I was astonished to see him writing in the second edition of the resurrected Aeromodeller, with a new design for a control line stunter for a 2.5cc diesel, based on the Nobler. He must be getting on a bit by now (even older than me). I wonder if he's aware of this discussion, he could probably answer some of our earlier questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 HI Brian, If I can remember the way I did mine was to attach the engine mount to the fire wall, I then screwed the engine to the mount using self tapping screws, I attached the spinner but behind the spinner plate I put a piece of 1/16 th scrap balsa wood to act as spacer. Then I made the cowling up from the fire wall to the scrap balsa with block balsa and a bit of planking to fit around the contour of the engine ( .46 2 stroke). When set removed engine and sanded cowling to shape. I hope this helps, when I get in tomorrow from work I will take some close up photos of mine for reference for you. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I agree with Andy. Self tappers. Yes, there is a big enough cutout to lift the engine in and out. I use self tappers into the mount. I use caphead screws from Modelfixings. They are american size capheads so you would also need the appropriate hex key. Ordinary self tappers will work of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Colin This thread is covering a different Bootlace, same name different model. This one is a Peter Miller design. IP is a fearsome airbrush manipulator, come artist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi Erfolg. Yes, I know that. It's just that in the original posts about Peter's Bootlace design (2009/10 onwards), there was a lot of discussion about the co-incidences with earlier "Bootlace" models and Ian Peacock's creations were mentioned. (We both contributed). My earlier post was triggered by Ian's contribution to the new Aeromodeller, I hadn't realised he was still designing and building. His original "Bootlace" was different to Peter's reasonably accurate and practical design and clearly later on was translated into "Miss Tangerine". I just wondered what his recollections of those days were, although it doesn't look as if he participates in this forum. I trust that all is well with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi Brian, hope these pictures help a little, hope your well Peter Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Nice pictures Andy. Still plodding along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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