Tim Mackey Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 As my retracts from springair came with absolutely no instructions at all ( when are these suppliers and manufacturers going to get their act together when it comes to instructions ? ? ) can anyone save me a frustrating few hours by sharing wtih us just how the heck you set up the steering function on these units? Pictures to accompany the words would be nice Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 13/04/2009 13:28:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Timbo does this help Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 A little thanks Dusty - however it was the actual assembly of the retract unit itself that I was pondering, there does not seem an obvious tiller / bearing etc assembly procedure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Well I fear this will not help much TBH Eric....but here goes. The mainleg is a TIGHT fit in the hole in the main alloy block, and there is also a locking set screw in the block - but why? The whole principle must surely require that the leg revolves easily in the block. The tiller has a locking collar ( set screw again ) which preumably fits and locks on to the leg below the block, but there is no apparant way to hold the leg withing the block other than clamping it with the set screw ! At the top of the block is a recess which you would think takes a locking collar onto the top of the leg, but there is only a tiny little collar ( in the piccy ) and no means of locking it to the leg....which as I say, is a TIGHT fit in the hole anyway ! I fear that we need someone here who has actually got / assembled one of these before - it honestly looks to me like it is not even designed to be steerable... but why the tiller, and it is described as a "3 gear set, with steering" These things are not cheap, and although of good quallity, it really annoys me that the designer / manufacturer leaves all this assembly to the imagination. I know we as modellers are used to having to find a way to get things to work, but honestly, its time things improved. Typical sign of an engineer with no clue as to customer service or communication skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 OK so no response from Eric despite the pictures - told you so I remeber a thread discussing these units a while back and I am pretty sure that james Hindle used them in his Hawk...so heres a call out to James.... James ....help please http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=14403&p=2 I will PM him also and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 hello timbo-looking at the pic you've posted-looks like they've given you the wrong leg-can't see how that is going to pivot---get your mr angry head on....and give them a ring...... ken anderson............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Ringing them is not an option TBH Ken...they hardly ever even answer emails and the phone just rings out day or night - they are Florida based company, and I suspect pretty small time really too. I have decided to just press on and sort it with some fettling....I have used a fine grinding paste on the steel leg and "worked" the hole until the leg fits freely but without slop. I shall turn up a small collet style ring on the lathe, with set screw, to fit onto the top of the leg once inserted in the enlarged hole, which will stop the leg dropping out - and the steering collar will be locked onto the shaft at the other side of the block IYSWIM..... to stop it going up too far into the block and fouling the frame. When I have it done, I will post the results - as a picture will as usual, be worth a thousand words. I still have no idea what the supplied small ring / collar is, and the set screw in the mounting block is too short to do anything - even lock the leg in place, if thats what it was designed to doEdited By Timbo - Moderator on 14/04/2009 12:12:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Hi, I had the same problem Tim pondered it for quite a while, basically the tiny aluminum ring goes in the gap, although mine was too thick so I had to use a wheel collet and file it down in the end then the tiller arm at the bottom so basically you have fixings top and bottom. The 'screw' is to secure some thin piano wire which goes through the little hole in the tiller arm to centre the leg. Hope this helps, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 interesting that you say they are small time Tim, apparently they make most of the Robart range ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 This should help ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Ah thanks James .... however, the little ali ring has no means of fixing at all so I have also used a filed down collet with grub screw. Th ecentre screw and springy wire thing idea is a boon however, as I was just pondering how I would keep the leg /wheel straight as it opened and closed. I am modifying the mounting system quite a bit as I am utilising both the original fly fly oleo strut AND a short length of decent piano wire and a 2 turn coil for shock absorbtion - the extra length of all this means the retract unit will be set well back from its intended position so am in the middle of cutting foam etc now. I will add pictures as I make any progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 go on james.........one happy timbo=.. ken anderson............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Tim, If its the hawk then you MUST pack out the front leg as its AOA stock is pants and unless you have a full size runway and 20-20 vision it will NEVER rotate !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Yes I know about that one mate.... however with the extra length of my coil sprung leg setup I dont have this problem....in fact she may look decidedly gangly !Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 17/04/2009 17:58:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Well got a fair bit done over the last day or so, and the nosewheel fitting is pretty much done ( no steering yet ) and as I suspected, it all does look a bit "daddy long leg" like. I know this will address the AOA issue, but am getting concerned that the extra leg length may allow too much leverage and make things rather wobbly and unstable in the take off run and landings. Also, the angle at which I have set the retract unit ( to allow the larger than standard wheel to fit inside the nose properly ) has removed most if not all of the castor of the wheel - another worry. Anyone know what the leg length from fus bottom to wheel bottom was in the standard nosewheel when fitted ? James perhaps ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Hmmm, guess it looks a little better when viewed on the whole thing quickly mocked up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Mine's 150cm (just under 6" in old money) but it gets up very quick ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 Ah, maybe I overdid it a bit then - still, not too difficult to make a new shorter oleo if it proves troublesome. Cheers James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hi Eric... no worries - I am going to turn up a new shorter oleo as I want to retain the coil spring and the larger diameter wheel which I added ( which is what is creating the length ). The combo of oleo and "horizontal" torsion springing works well on my Spit on our slightly rough grass patch, and I know from others experience with this, and the Sabre from the same stable that "normal" installation of the retracts results in immediate and damaging ripping out when trying to fly off grass. Most people have resorted to handlaunching or fixed undercarriage - neither of which is acceptable to me so I shall persist and get it workable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Halton Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Seems you have it sorted Tim, the collet just holds the leg in there while it rotates,don't forget,file a falt and loctite it. My units were bought secondhand and ready assembled, seems I was able to avoid a lot of hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 Well after 2 days work and several failures of steering mechanism to work well, I have settled on using 20lb nylon fishing line. Control line wire ( "laystrate" for the oldies reading this ) just wouldnt fold neatly when retracted, and this hindered a smooth action. I used a simialr setup as James to mount the steering servo, but fitted it on ply cross plate and pink foam supports. The retract is mounted on ply also, which is deeply recessed around 2" + into the fus sides, and supported underneath by more pink foam. The lot was assembled using gorilla glue ( PU ) as it foams out nicely and fills the unavoidable gaps and tears created when cutting and fettling. There is absolutely no way the retracts would have stayed put if fitted to the silly little foam ledges as designed. I managed to shorten the leg to around 6" and with the correct settings of the main legs should have a good AOA without it all being too dangly. Air tank and valve / servo all fitted in under canopy area, and fill valve mounted on ply plate recessed into fus sides. So...things are finally moving on with this project. Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 22/04/2009 19:18:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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