ericrw Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I'm wanting to buy a Soldering Iron. What is the best wattage to go for in relation to aircraft modelling ? Also do members have any thoughts on which type to go for i.e Draper electronic type Gun or the standard shaft with tips type ? Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Hi Eric, stay well away from the 'gun' type, if you can afford it go for a temperature controlled type, 'Weller' or some such, they can pour lots of heat into the joint where you most need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fog Dart Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I bought one of these just before christmas and cant fault it. CLICKY It was only a tenner when i bought it though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gemma Jane Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I agree wattage wise it depends what you are doing I have four ranging from low Watt to 80 Watts. I actually like to use the 80 Watts even for simple jobs like deans connectors, it's so simple and quick and it doesn't leave a dry joint and ensures the wire gets properly soaked with solder rather than just coated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 hello eric-i got my 80 watta from brc--i got sick of the lighter one's with the small tip's on wearing out so went for the more stronger/powerfull one--you can weld new plates on the side of the QE2 with it............ ken anderson............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flytilbroke Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Hi Eric, a small light Iron for small light work. 17W to 25W. A substantial lump of an Iron for heavier work, 70w to 100W. All work by heat transfer, transfer heat from the tip too quickly and it gets cooler than required. Lightwieght Temperature controlled irons prevent the tip from getting too hot they do not give an instant massive amount of heat for heavier work. A substantial tip also allows a fast local heat transfer, doing the job without giving time for the surrounding area to get hot, limiting the chance of damage. Making sure all is clean is very important. My irons have all been as Phil states, for the reason he gives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericrw Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Just sent for a 50 w adjustable soldering iron off ebay for £22,99 inc postage, The same model on Maplin's site is £29.99 plus £2.99 postage. Thanks to all for their input. Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Mullins Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Seems I've missed the boat, but I've inherited my soldering iron! Yes thats right, im using dads 25W Soldering for 30 years ago, does everything i need it to. He created Magic smoke from a Machine battery with this . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I know its not recommended but I like to use a separate flux (e.g. Fry's Powerflux) even when using a multi core solder. Just a tiny dab on the work makes the solder flow so much more easily that you actually end up using less heat. It is of course mildly corrosive (after all that's how it works) so you are not supposed to use it on electrical joints but I have not had any trouble so far. Ben, I also inherited my dads 60W iron which he bought new in 1952 and it still works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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