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Simon Chaddock

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Everything posted by Simon Chaddock

  1. The evening here have been particularly still even if it has been pretty gusty during the day so over 5 evenings all after after 8:30pm with these planes I have flown for a total of over 2 hours. As reported this flew for 26 minutes. The following evening even longer for 32 minutes. For this flight I painted the fuselage red to make it easier to see side on in failing light. Next evening the Endurance for 33 minutes. Nothing clever really as it can fly for hours but it does fly very slowly so easy to see. Next the sub 250g Light Tractor for 22 minutes. Another slow flyer with its 850mAh 2s. Last night the sub 250g Super Cub 13 minutes. More bulky and even slower with a tiny 1000mAh 2s. I did also fly the 50mm EDF DH Venom but I broke it so I don't want to talk about that.☹️ However it will mend.
  2. After a bit of searching I have found another photo that seems very similar to the one I have. The same Avro 504 G-EBCB and different people but the source confirms it is Hendon in 1927 or 8 . It also confirms that the EAJ monogram on the other side of the fuselage is that of the co owner and pilot E A Jones. It was registered under the name of Kingwill & Jones Flying Co. They both flew for Northern Airlines. You can just see the base of those steps in my photo as well. It appears a photo was included as part of the joy ride. G-EBCB was destroyed in a gale in 1929.
  3. A very long time ago about 1959 (I was 13) after my Dad built a round 10ft diameter pond in the garden I built this electric RTP "jet" boat. Small and very light 1/16 balsa it used a 6V can motor with the prop in a duct. The wires to the centre pole carried the current In 1962 I built my first RC boat using the motor. speed controller, servos and the 7.2 V NiCd battery from a Tamiya Dune Buggy. All 1/16 balsa skin over 1/8 by 1/4 frames. Worked well but being so light and relatively bulky is was seriously effected by any wind. The next was was based on a Cigarette racing hull. Again of all balsa construction It went some what faster than the Cabin Cruiser. Used a few times on the local boating pond I was always concerned that with the weight of the all the electrics in it if I hit anything it would shatter & sink in quick order.
  4. I have no more period self pictures but do have some modern ones of some "period" models. Probably the oldest is a plastic control line Cox P40. This was brought back in 1958 from the USA by my dad. As a senior civil servant he travelled first class so carrying such things in baggage was ignored. Run a few times but never actually flown. At the time I had built a KK Spitfire scaled up by 1.5 . Intended for the Mills 75 but in due coarse the 049 Cox from the P40 was fitted in the mid 60s The first application of polyurethane dope. Never flown either so its a low use Cox 049! An example of my building ambition exceeding my flying ability. A 45" span control line HE219. Built largely out of 1/16 balsa it was intended to have an ED 246 racer inboard and an AM 15 outboard being the only engines I had access to. Its state as in 1964 when I left home to be an engineering apprentice. It has been in both my parents loft and mine in the 60 years since. My first outdoor battery electric control line plane. I think it was a Cox product Tiny, only about half the size of the Cox 049 P40 it had two cells that you charged up from a big dry cell battery. I can find no Google reference to it but then run along the ground was all it could do. I keep far too much old stuff!
  5. Not quite so many photos but this is me flick starting the Mills 75 in my control line DH4 nearly 60 years ago at Loughborough. I handed the running plane over to my friend Bob, he had the camera, who hand launched it for me to fly. Fellow students in the Aeronautics Department built a one man hovercraft but wanted a scale model to test in a wind tunnel. Although not an Aeronautics student guess who made it for them. Finally not me but my Dad and his younger sister going for a jolly as a present on his 20st birthday (1928) in an immaculate converted 3 seat Avro 504 at Hendon. That's all my period plane related photos.
  6. Nothing special yesterday just a flight in ideal calm conditions with my power conversion of the FX707 chuck glider. The bit extra is it also has 2 stage flaps with a Tx mix on the elevator to counter the flap trim change. With a 1.2m span and reasonable aerodynamics it glides really quite well. Stage 1 flap (10 degrees) gives the lowest power to fly condition. With a 1500mAh 2s it weighs 344g. It flew for just over 23 minutes. Could have gone on a bit longer but my neck was starting to get stiff.
  7. dafi Welcome. The main issue you may face is the potential weather in your location. You do need fairly gentle weather whilst learning to fly so you may find it a bit frustrating to begin with. I presume you are intending to go slope soaring which once you are competent can actually handle quite strong winds but there are limits. Is there a Model soaring club on Orkney? Such a club is by far the best place to learn both the basics of flying and the dos and don't of slope soaring including what sort of glider would be suitable to learn with. It is worth noting that a slope soaring glider has rather different characteristics to one for thermal flying on a flat site. Power flying planes are different again. Having flown full size gliders in the past I too have more interest in a plane's gliding ability than just its power.
  8. Daren If you want detailed help in the construction of your proposed EDF it might be better to start a new thread in the "Own Design project blogs" section.
  9. Daren To answer your question you have to consider how the foam is going to be used. Adding paper or film to both sides of a single piece will make it much stiffer but it adds a significant weight. If the foam is the final shape then paper/film only needs to be added on those areas that are under the greatest tension. Paper/film adds much less compressive strength. This is the process of adding a paper/film skin to a solid foam plane. Of course any foam does have a natural but limited tensile and compressive strength. This poses the question If the structure is such that the maximum load stresses are within the foam's limit then does it need reinforcing at all? There is no universal answer to reinforcing as it depends on the nature of the foam and its intended application. For thin wings reinforcement is very likely. For fuselages reinforcement less likely. For a fat fuselage reinforcement is probably not required. However "crash resistance" and "handling" can add further reinforcement requirements.
  10. toto No doubt a superb model but with my OCD for detail I am puzzled on the layout of the nacelle. It is obviously has a bigger internal diameter than the 70mm EDF but why does the inlet to the fan not go to the lovely scale nacelle inlet rather than leaving a gap. I doubt it would make any difference but it would look neater without that gap. The other oddity is the serrated exhaust duct. It is very thick. I suspect the cut off bluff end will cost a bit of thrust but it probably not noticeable. Technically where two air streams meet with significantly different velocities the surface should end with a fine edge. It is almost as if the nacelle was intended for a bigger 90 mm EDF. But don't worry it just me being picky!
  11. toto Very nice but I thought you said were weren't going to buy any more RC planes!
  12. I have used the LOFT facility in FREECAD to create complicated EDF ducts for scale planes. Probably the most complex to date is the one for my Depron Douglas X-3 Stietto. Although a twin jet in full size for practical reason I chose to use a single larger more efficient EDF. This meant twin inlets converging for the EDF and then diverging again for the twin exhausts. To make matters still more complex the inlets were high up and angled at 45 degrees and the exhausts are low down level with the bottom of the fuselage. This is a CAD representation of the complete duct. Made up of 7 parts. 5 lofted and 2 "simple" prints. The simple prints have oversize ends to allow the lofted parts to be glued on. The big gap is where the EDF goes. This what it looked like printed in LW-LA and glued together. The bulge in the duct aft of the EDF is required to maintain the fan swept area (FSA) resulting from the slightly larger diameter than the fan hub of the overhung motor. All the parts are single wall 'vase' printed. The end result was smooth aerodynamically about as good as good as possible, very light yet rigid enough for the main part of the "former and planking" fuselage to be built around it. Pity the finished plane has so far not flown at all well. ☹️
  13. Surely the absolute stall speed is pretty meaningless in the RC world. How the plane behaves approaching the stall and the effectiveness of the controls are the only inputs a RC pilot has. In light aircraft with direct mechanical controls the pilot has "control feel" to help make a judgement. Big planes with full power controls have to rely on accurate cockpit instrumentation and automatic systems like the stick shaker to warn the pilot of an approaching stall. RC planes also have no feel feedback. As RC planes are not thoroughly type tested or have the the appropriate instrumentation how a plane feels as it approaches the stall will be different for each and every one. However with ever increasing micro electronics who knows what might be possible. A transmitter responding to accurate on board airspeed by shaking the stick or the transmitter telling you to "PULL UP".
  14. I am far more concerned about the average UAS as they are much less restricted. As the CAA have pointed out just 1kg at 60 mph can kill.
  15. G-ETVL is its CAA registration. It is registered as a FIXED-WING LANDPLANE (UNMANNED) belonging to VERTICAL AEROSPACE GROUP LTD. At its MTOW of 3900kg or just a bit heavier than an EC135 air ambulance 😮 I expect it requires a very specific Permit to Fly.
  16. My thoughts exactly. It always amazes me that folk complain on forums that "Company X has not yet brought out a particular plane that I want to make" If I really want a plane that interests me I make my own from scratch. On my return to RC flying in 2010 after the usual career break I bought a "Ready To Fly" package that included a transmitter. So far it has been the only one in my collection..
  17. If you do cover the hinge gap just make sure the end result is really flexible. All to easy to rely on the power of the servo to overcome any resistance and then wonder why the servo fails. 😉 The hinge gap is primarily sealed to limit air leakage from the higher pressure side to the lower pressure thus reducing the effectiveness of the control surface. A single side cover is perfectly adequate. I would agree with John S the best way is to first restore the structure to its original condition before worrying about the hinge.
  18. An all foam high aspect ratio glider can be done. A scale Glasflugel Libelle 2.1m span with a balsa spar using 3mm Depron. Relied heavily on using a thick true scale wing section towards the root for strength. Probably not the most efficient wing for a model of that size but it still flew pretty well.
  19. TsP Yes membership of the BMFA automatically gives you insurance, however to comply with the CAA legal rules you must take and pass their on line theory test to get a Flyer ID. If you own a plane then you also need an operator ID. it costs £13.13 and is valid for a year. The only exception is if the plane or drone is below 250g in total and does not carry a camera then no registration at all is required.
  20. My Mills had a cut out and yes with time it came a bit loose. I never used it so left it in place with the spring. Any air leakage was compensated for by needle valve adjustment. The Mills has an wide torque range so can handle bigger than might be expected props. The modest drop in engine revs can be countered by the prop generating more thrust. For a scale effect my Mills 75 happily turned a 7x6 four blade wood prop.
  21. I don't know if "Safe" or as3x will be automatically configured in a BNF model but the key point, and it applies to many things about flying RC planes, is to read the instructions and find our exactly what does what before you even consider flying. No matter how much you love warbirds resist the temptation to fly them at least to begin with as they are not the easiest things to fly. Remember they were originally designed with flight characteristics suited to a function not really applicable to RC flying. No pilot ever learned to fly on a full size Spitfire. 😊
  22. TsS There is quite a bit to learn so just ask away on anything and remember the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask.
  23. toto All I can saw is Wow! Awful big and likely fast. Don't rush to fly it anytime soon even if you trust someone else to. The only problem is when you see it actually fly you will want to fly it yourself even more. I know I would!
  24. Excellent about the effect of wind speed. The only point I would add is to also consider the effect of air turbulence resulting from the wind around fixed objects. As we cannot see the air mass it is hard to imagine just what happens to the airflow around the object or for how long it may be disturbed down wind. Turbulence created by wind turbines stirring up a low level sea mist. Not exactly a likely scenario for a model plane but this picture does indicate how far turbulence can go on for. The same sort thing happens on a lesser scale down wind from tall trees or buildings. Imagine how the plane behaves as you fly through such conditions. Depending on the direction of flight the plane will see air suddenly going up, down, left ,right or rotating CW or CCW. Most likely you will be relatively close to the ground as the same time. Be aware of the wind direction and any big objects up wind of the plane's flight path.
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