Tim Mackey Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 It may be my fault...too much throwing wildthings off a cliff, and too many scones after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 I am sure when he is back on his feet - literally - he can expand a bit on the method, but hopefully this will make things a little clearer. If you fancy having a go Stephen, it is great fun! Start with a simple constant chord, non taper wing panel ( like the original WOT4 remember ? ) Get yourself a few blocks of foam from the builders merchant ( they use it for insulation and so on ) you need to then cut the block ( hacksaw blade or similar will do for the rough cut) into a piece about the same length as the wing panel span, and about twice as thick as the thickest point of the wing. Just to play with the idea, simply draw out a rib shape ( this version will be the same at the root as the tip ) on a piece of ply, or lithoplate etc. Cut out to shape X 2 of these rib "templates ". Sand the edges really smooth so the wire doesnt snag - and then drill a couple of holes through the templates, 1 X near each end. Nail 'em onto the ends of the foam block, and as described above, use the hotwire to slice through the foam, by pressing the wire down onto the top edge of each template, using the templates to hold the wire in correct contact with the surface and to conform to the desired wing shaped profile. With this type of panel ( assuming your bow wire is long enough ) you could even cut the whole wing in one panel. The trick is to get the wire the right temperature, and also to transverse the wire at an even speed across the templates...much harder to do if the tip rib template is a different size - in these cases, I mark each template with a set of numbers from say... 1 to 10, evenly spaced on each template...then use an assistant to hold the other end of the bow, and call out the numbers loudly as you both move across the template with the wire.... the idea is to each "arrrive" at the same numeral together. This helps to ensure that the foam is cut evenly without either bobbling and dragging by going too fast - or burning too deep and ending up with "trenches" where the hot wire was allowed to dilly dally too long in one place! Practice is required I assure you! HTH Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 14/07/2009 00:03:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Im getting it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Of course Stephen, Polyplotter has a piece of software which allows the printing out of aerofoil sections ( profili and compufoil etc are typical examples ) - he is not just drawing them by hand like I suggested to you in the earlier example ARE YOU PHIL ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 .8mm or .08mm ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iawnski Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 very interesting polli , timbo were do you get the lithoplate from ?,i use balsa rubbed with a candle,would you say litho is the way to go ? kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Hi kev... I have had some sheets for donkeys years - picked em up from our inhouse printshop in work about 25 years ago! I guess printers today would still use them for some jobs. As I said earlier, we all have our fav material for templates- polyplater uses wood with copper wire glued to the edge I just like lithoplate because it is easy to cut with scissors, yet tough enough to last. I dont have much left now - polyrobber nicked most of my stock Well actually thats not true...I gave him it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flytilbroke Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Turns out fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Nice one Phildespielberg - see told you it would be better with movies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Couldnt really see how you were doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Now Ive watched the previous videos I get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Richards Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Good to see those nice big wasteful off cuts Phil. More for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Richards Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 No I can wait. I have a chunk of work coming up so I will be busy until September. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Hmm. Surely thinning this section results in a non standard E374 section - in other words a different section ? Its not an out and out speed machine, and the incresed section over the old one probaly means better lift, which is a good thing Unless you confirm the thinning out will not significantly affect the lift, then I will leave it alone - if it retains its performance, then thin it out by all means. As for TE and LE wood thickness, the LE will be half round, of about 3/4" stock, and the TE can be small as I shall use diamond tape and covering film top hinged, with the angle of the aileron LE to suit ( as per the picture above of the old aileron ) Sorry for dealy, email notifications have only just started working again, and I am all back on normal address etc. Hi Mikey Mind your public image now mate ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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