Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[MThemadhatter]

Have a look at this thread over at RCMF Mulit engine RC there is quite a lot there about it.

 

"I am guessing it is not as bad as a two engine plane losing an engine"

 

Could be worse becuase you may not notice you have lost an engine. The following clip on U-tube is of one of my Club mates Electric B17 loosing a prop, it was kind of exciting !

 

 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

That  video is a good  example what can happen , but this was rather extreme as the pilot didn't know he had lost a prop and  was turning towards the dead engine. Also losing an outboard prop exaggerated the situation.

He was/ is  quite a skillfull guy getting out of that situation.

 

An IC model would behave the same if a prop was lost, but the likelyhood of that happening is small.

 

If you are unfortunate to lose a engine be ready to put in oposite rudder to that dead engine, do not turn towards it, and get back on the ground quickly.

 

 

[MThemadhatter]

All together now DOH !!

 

I was sat at work daydreaming about which fixings to use for the wings (it gets very boring sometimes) when I realised I had not put the mounting plates into the leading edge, done the rear ones DOH , and of course I have already sheeted the wings. So for those not at this stage yet don't forget !!

 

And I am going to use some of these with blind nuts ,  nylon thumb screws as recent experience would with bolts and blind nuts securing the canopy suggest they come undo a bit easily in flight. These don't.

[rookie jim]

Hi guys,

i have now dry clamped the inner and outer panels of the left wing and like max spent quite a bit of time making sure it was all lined up. Terry advised me to use a couple of straight edges and they certainly did the job.

 

Had a go at fixing the cowl on and its not that easy getting the cut outs right is it with the vacuum piece being so opaque. now all i have to do is work out how to fix. it seems to me that the cowl is wider than the fuselage at the firewall so its a challenge to get a fix thats leaves the same gap all round.

 

had a look at the spars and the notes on the plan. a bit confusing to me as i am not sure why 1mm plastic is needed between the piece unles its to allow the join.

 

also had a look at spats and Mario has put some good postings here on that area. the one thing that has me worried is the canopy. its not really clear which areas need trimming. on the spats its obvious but not sure on the canopy. Still they are a bit of a way off at the moment so time to think about it.#

 

Max,

you posting on the spar plates was very timely.

 

JIm

[Grahamd]

Jim I feel your pain with the cowl, spats and canopy. The cowl and spats are by far the worse moldings I've ever come across, no markings, either scale or cutting.

I've just cut my canopy, I built the cockpit sides, and then put the canopy over and then you can see where it needs to be cut, but cut 1/4" oversize, easier to cut more than have to put it back

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Guys.

 

I second your words on the plastic mouldings Graham, and for the price

charged a little quality control wouldn't have gone amiss.

 

As for the spats both Mario and I did go for a scale look,including a

removable wheel panels, and landing lights, and we both decided on butt

 jointing the two halves. this was rather laborious but the finished spat

was virtually seemless.

Butt jointing did require scrap pieces of ABS glued to the inside edge of one

half to give the other half a flange to glue to.  I found ' Zap Gap med' was

 better than any other glue. 

Also I found because of the removable wheel panel the finished spat could

fitted over the aluminium leg, and the axel could be fitted last. 

 

Page  29   shows Marios spat fixing method. 

 

 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 21/06/2010 08:39:25

[Grahamd]

Posted by Terry Whiting 1 on 21/06/2010 08:37:04:

Hi Guys.

 

I second your words on the plastic mouldings Graham, and for the price

charged a little quality control wouldn't have gone amiss.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 21/06/2010 08:39:25

 

It really does annoy me, and fills me full of dread over ordering the Halifax mouldings

[Grahamd]

Still ploding away....

 

Now back to the ailerons

[Terry Whiting 1]

Graham,

 

Sure looking good......., but how  can  you  build in this weather  ?

you  must be getting through lots of

 

Terry

[rookie jim]

all,

i have finally managed to glue the inner and outer panels of the wings together . now to sand le and te and complete sheeting.

 

jim

[MThemadhatter]

Finnaly spent a day of my holiday building today LOL I think I have flown more in the last two weeks than I did the whole of last summer.

 

Any way I have finished the flaps/ailerons/servo mounts and am working on the tip blocks at root blocks. These as usual are proving to be my nemisis and I need more balsa lol. I put both wings together and sat them on the fuse this evening and it all went together smoothly.

 

Its starting to look I like it will fly

One after thought though. It would be a good idea to put a cap on the wing tubes so that when the wings is assembled the wing rod is not just pushed through the wing it is already in. Easy to do the rear ones but not the ones hidden under the sheeting.

Tomorrow I will glue the wing tubes to f4 f5 and finish the left wing tip and generally tidy up the wings.

[Terry Whiting 1]

 

Max,

I hope what I'm looking at is a photographic illusion, as the joined wing

looks less any dihedral,  

 

As for the tube ends, any future builders before gluing the tubes  use

the corner of a pair of square nose pliers, and bend inwards two small

crimps (1/16" - 1.5mm) to what will be the inboard edge of both the tubes.

 

Sorry Max,   I was going to add  this tube 'crimp tip'  to the blog, must have

forgot .  Another senior moment    

[MThemadhatter]

Most definitly a optical allusion, otherwise I would be sat in the corner rocking backwards and forwards at this point lol

 

I got on with the wing mounting today. I used a deluxe materials wing joining kit for this.

 

I first slotted the wings together with the brass tubes that go one f4 and f5. It then sat the wings on the fuse and spent about 1 hour making sure they where centred and straight with the fuse. I then marked the position and put bits of cord going from the wing tips to tail to make sure it stayed in place. Once I was really happy I put some epoxy onto f4 and f5 and lowered the wing assebmly in place and went away and left it alone.

 

I then wrapped the glass cloth around the tubes, mixed up and applied the epoxy.

 

 

 

Once it was cured but still a little soft I trimmed off the excess, I will sand the edges down later. I think once round with the cloth should be enough ? it seems pretty strong. The heat was no a help today and the epoxy was  quite runny and I have been peeling some of it off the fuse before it gets to hard.

 

Whilst this was curing I did the other tip block

 

I have two bits of 12mm balsa with a bit of 3mm sandwiched in the middle of its grain at 90 degrees to that on the 12mm. I could not do this with the 12mm bits as I could only fit the tip shape length ways on my stock.

Tip finished and aileron hinged. As you can see its trial be error hear today And I will have to trim that bit of hinge off. This is full down deflection on the aileron

 

And this is full down on the flaps

Is this enough or should I chamfer them a bit more ? I will resses the hinges a bit into the TE as well once I am happy.

Nearly finished, I will have to install the servos later as I have not bought them yet. I ran out of 12mm balsa so have not done the bits at the wing root yet.

 

[MThemadhatter]

I could not resist a few pics of the wing on the fuse

 

 

[Klippy]

Those flaps look good, any more and you'll have lots of braking effect = very nose down on final. But looking good. I see you guys are finally getting a summer this year!

[MThemadhatter]

I could not resist slotting it all together today

 

 I am not entirely sure that vertical stab is perfectly in line with the wing so some adjustment might be need there. I am going to focus on the engine/tank and cockpit details next so that I can fiddle with these bits with before covering and fixing on the tail feather. Should stop some hanger rash.

[MThemadhatter]

Before any one panics its not as far out as the picture would suggest, its hold on by a rubber band there

[Terry Whiting 1]

Job well done Max, now for all the fiddly bits..........keep a cool head!.

[MThemadhatter]

Yep lots of small jobs now, one bit at a time. I am not going to go over board on the detail, just whats shown in the plan. The cowl is the bit I am not looking forward to all those blisters and trying to make it look smooth + putting together my dummy engine.

 

Going off on a slight tangent I know have an extremely funky Hitec Aurora 9 radio system. This gives me total control over the flaps and ailerons and gives me a couple of possibilities.

 

Firstly it will let me mix in flaperon with the flaps (both ailerons moving down a little with the flaps)

 

Mixing the flaps to work with the ailerons (full span aileron)

 

Or a separate camber control like on gliders

 

And any combination of the above. All the above could be used to slow down approach speed ? What do you think ?

[Terry Whiting 1]

 

Max,

 

You most probably have your own method of blister making, but page 8

shows Mario's and my method.

 

 Yes flaperon mix is worth trying,I have thinking along the same lines.

The only power model I have flown with 'flaperons' was the Tony Nijhuis

40 Trainer which has a tapered wing. It was a commission build, and 

 was asked to test fly using flaperons, it was brilliant.

 The landings were phenonenal.

 

On the Lysander it might compensate having no Handley Page auto slot.  

In fact I have been toying with the idea of adding trial slots, as they were

not designed into the full size for no reason.  .

 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 01/07/2010 08:01:07

[rookie jim]

Hi all

now about to fix the brass tubes to F4 and 5. then i can line up spars which i have made and finish of wings. run out of balsa for the le though.

 

getting there slowly

 

Terry,

you did a posting recommending  a way to fix the tubes but i am having trouble finding them. if you have a rough idea as to when you made the post itt would cut down my searching.

 

max,

how did you mark the positions of the tubes?

 

i am not looking forward to trimming the canopy or doing the spats.

 

 Jim

 

 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hello Jim,

 

Sorry I can't remember the page No, so I will run through the procedure.

This has to be done with the wing  assembled, as the wing geometry

is set at the same time.  

 

Measurer the centre of the tubes and mark with a file.

Assemble the wing  including  the brass tubes  on the carbon rods .

they will eventually  be epoxied to F4 & F5,

Now place a pin in both W20 at the mainspar,  measurer span exactly

between both W20 pins, now halve that measurement , this is now the

wings centre, slid the marked tubes on the carbon rods to that centre

measurement.

Add small pieces of masking tape to the tubes to stop them moving on

the C/rods.

Block up the fuselage tail end so that F4 & F5 are reasonable level,

this saves a little back bending when eyeballing the the wing position

to that of tailplane.

Now position the wing so that the tubes are central on F4 & F5.

Now mask tape the tube to the centre of F4 only.. Stand back and check the

wing is sitting  correctly to that of the tailplane. If satisfied  place a pin in the

 top of the fin,  and a pin in each of W10 at the mainspar, now these wing

pins must be positioned  exactly to each other.

Now measure from the 'fin pin' to W10 pins, that measurement  must be

exact. To achieve this you have to push either wing tip by very small

increments. Once the measurement is correct  add epoxy to the tube of  F5

and let cure,  once set do the same  to F4 and let cure.

Do not get epoxy anywhere near the C/rods. Once the epoxy has cured, carefully

remove the wing and glass over the tubes as Max did.

See his pictures on page 41.

 

Just take you time Jim, it might read laborious, but the geometry must be right. 

      

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 07/07/2010 17:57:54

[MThemadhatter]

Hi all.

 

I am slowly working my way backwards down the plane at the moment. This week I have been cowl bashing.

 

Its all primed up and ready to be painted. No I have a question about painting.

 

Yellow then Black

 

 OR

 

Black then yellow ?

 

Which is the best way to paint tiger stripes ? My instinct is to go for a white primer final coat, then yellow and black on top ? This will dictate whether I buy yellow or black solartex. Also can you get a good finish by brushing on solartex as opposed to spray cans ?

 

Also what is the colour that they paint the inside with, its kind of a gery/green and does anyone know winch of the tamiya colours it is ?

 

Thanks

[Papa]

Hi MTM,

There is a Tamiya paint called AS30 Dark Green 2 (RAF) that looks to be a very close match. I plan to finish mine in a semi-gloss or satin black and use masking tape for the stripes finishing with a semi-gloss or satin yellow sprayed all over. Thus for me it will be black first and yellow next. Bear in mind there was no real standard colour. maintenance used whatever was to hand, so close should be fine.

 

Jack, Toronto

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks for that. Here are some photo's. I been using filling primer to get the panel lines, one cote of grey plastic primer will go on before painting.( When halfords have some ! )