Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Papa]

Looking very good, I like the way you did the raised bumps over the cylinder heads. The grey in the photographs is the dark green washed out by the flash. The colour is quiet dark.

 

jack.

[rookie jim]

hi max,

really glad you posted those pics. i have spent ages trying to sort out how to fit the cowl.at the moment the cowl is wider than the fuselagebecause the engine mount stops ir going back any further, so its a b***** trying to work out how to fix.  i am not bothering with radial trim etc on the front so i had only cut out sufficient cowls at the centre for the prop etc. i notice you have taken it a lot further back and effectively taken out the whole of the front. i can see your engine and if i do the same the cowl can go back further be fixed to the F1 firewall . not sure if that makes sense.

 

also fixed canopy after quite a few tries. its not perfect but its on .

 

just finishing ailerons,flaps and le etc of wings, then its spats.

 

will try and put a couple of pics up soon.

 

jim

Edited By rookie jim on 17/07/2010 22:50:36

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

The whole front of the cowl should be removed, but your engine

 mount must be oversize if it's stopping the cowl positioning.

Remove the front and make life easier for yourself, you will then

see where the mounting blocks need gluing to the firewall.

 

Use 4 small pieces of 1/16" sheet, and tape them to the edge of

your firewall, they will work as spacers centralizing the cowl,

you can then see where to glue the hardwood cowl mounting

blocks to the firewall.

 

(Page 28) shows a picture Max added of the fullsize, and (page 12)

there are pictures of my cowl front view. 

 

The front radius of the cowl is the exhaust collector ring which on

the fullsize is discoloured through heat, so do not make it look

too pretty, same goes or the exhaust pipe if fitting.

[MThemadhatter]

JIM

 

This is how I made the cowl mounts, there are no screws yet I will add these or possibly blind nuts when I finish the dummy engine

 

I have started on the cooling baffle/dummy engine. I cut a disk from light ply with a compass cutter and cut out a slot to allow air only to come in over the the engine. 

 

I will also make some plates to go along side the engine to force air over the cooling fins. Between the holes I have cut for the rocker covers and the skirt ( ? ) at the back of the cowl this should give adequate cooling. One issue to work around is how to mount the dummy engine. I have dummy fitted it and it cant be permanently fixed in as you can't get the cowl on that way. I am trying to decided whether to screw it to the engine mount, but then its not square due to the side and down thrust. Or put some hardwood blocks around the edge and screw it in place from the outside. Both fiddly. How did you guys do yours ?

 

Now onto assembling the dummy engine.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Max,

 

I glued  four shaped blocks inside the front radius, the  blocks were

hidden by two rings of 1.5mm balsa sheet. One ring glued in vertically

behind the blocks, the other was tube fashion and slid in via the cowl

 front.  This created the look of an authentic exhaust ring.

 

My dummy engine was then screwed from  in side of the cowl, through

 of  four of the rocker covers .

 

 Page 12 shows my  finished ring.

 

Terry    

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 18/07/2010 15:41:37

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks for that, I am going to do something similar.

 

Here is the dummey dry fitted and cut, I had to remove a fair bit to make sure it cleared the engine.

I will have to cut another hole for the crankcase vent. I was going to add pushrods but as they are black I can't see much point. Instead I am going to add the three support struts and the the two air intakes (anyone know what these are for ?) as they seem to be the most striking features in the cowl. Here are a couple of close up shots from last weekend.

 

I will do the engine hub in black and cylinders and exhaust ring in gun metal.

[rookie jim]

this is second attempt at a post. logged in wrote posting then system said i wasnt logged in.

terry

i am using an SC 52fs and it just fits on the mount. i reckon judging by other pictures i am trying to push back too far.

 

i notice both you and max cut away at the top of the cowl which i havent done. how do you work out how much to cut away.

 

max

thanks for the pics of your cowl mounts. now seeing them it seems so obvious. the cowl is a little bit wider than the fuselage and especially when i hadnt cut away the front i couldnt work it out. i have now opened the front and can see what i am doing.

 

earlier you asked about painting black first or yellow. i am not painting mine: its going to be all black - easier for me and black hides imperfections. i would suggest for what its worth black solartex and paint yellow.

 

jim

[MThemadhatter]

TBH Honest I made a  guestimate on how much of the cowl flaps to cut away, using the plans and photo's until it looked right. If you don't the cowl wont fit properly. I Have gone for yellow and black because I have had a couple of camouflage scheme planes and they can be trick to see and orientation becomes a problem, black will be worse all you will see is a silhouette most of the time.

[rookie jim]

Hi max and terry

had another look at plans i can now see the cut away at the top. trying to work out the position i put my cowl to the plan. now i am not sure if its me or an optical illusion but it looks to me as if my cowl is longer than on the plan. that flared bit at the rear certainly seems deeper on my cowl than the plan . did you have to cut any off the back?

 

jim

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

Mount   SC52FS so the carb screws are 2-3mm clear of your firewall.

Max's picture shows nicely where the cowl blocks are positioned.

 

Now that you have cut the face out of the cowel measure the aperture

and with the aid of a compass and some firm  cardboard cut a disc,

Make sure the disc passes through the cowel aperture.

Enlarge the disc centre hole and fit on the prop drive as you would a prop.

 

Now trim the top of the cowel flange a little at a time until the disc face

stand out clear of the cowl by 4-5mm , the 4-5mm is giving prop clearance.

 

Gently does it 

 

Terry

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 19/07/2010 09:02:13

[rookie jim]

hi terry,

the sc52 is as far back as it will go. about 16mm from firewall and 6mm from end of engine mount. there is minimal clearance at the rear between mount and rearmost part of engine.

 

a compass. blimey that takes me back. will have to go and buy a geometry set.

 

your instructions are very helpful, yet again, thanks.

 

jim

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

I think these days it's called a technical drawing set, very handy

bit of kit really, so is a protracor and a 'french curve'  .Pay a visit

to 'W H Smiths' they do a reasonable kit.

 

I see by the plan Tony Nijhuis has the prop driver about 10mm

forward of the cowel.which means your cowel will also be more

forward. 

Adjust the cowel allowing the prop driver to be 10mm proud  as

per the plan. The greater distance the prop is from the cowl, the

quieter the prop noise.

 

I would think your mouting blocks will need to be 20mm long,

or do as Max has and extended with ply. 

 . 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 19/07/2010 16:15:10

[MThemadhatter]

Have now finished the cowl/engine except for painting the cowl.

 

 I am pretty pleased with the way it has come out. I do think that the spinner looks to big though, its the one specified on the plan so I will get a smaller one. I also need to reinforce the mounting holes in the cowl, I have a cunning plan involving servo mounting bits.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Nice one Max, I agree the spinner looks OTT, but a wise move with

the soft aluminium deflection airduct around  the engine.

  

[Hugh P]

ALL

Has any one finised their Lysander with Black Solatex?

If so did you apply a fuel proof tuffcoat or similar?

What was the all up weight?

Did you need to add ballast?

Sorry for all the questions, but with the nationals coming up I need to make my mind up on the finishing so I can buy everything there.

Regards

HughP

Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/07/2010 11:58:38

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Hugh,

 

Yes mine is finished in Black tex, but being electric I have no need

for fuel proofing. You can view it on Page 34  if you wish.

I had to change the motor, and it goes now 6lb 4oz.

 

As you haven't fuel proofed, it's advisable to remove the motor and

 mount. and F-proof the whole firewall. I know it is stated Tex is

fuel proofed, but any of my Tex covered models I gave them a coat

of Ronseal exterior satin varnish, it make cleaning easier, otherwise

oil gets into the weave.

 

Terry

.  

  

[rookie jim]

Hi all

 

getting there. leading edge on wings and struts sorted. still to do spats. when i have wings fixed and test with a spirit level between left and right they are level. wow no-one is more surpisred thatn me.

 

have also fitted switch, fuel filler and remote glow. cowl is on too but having now fixed it on and terry's advice was really good, i think i may try and fit a dummy radial.

 

i hope to post some pictures tomorrow of my attempt so far.

 

jim

[rookie jim]

As promised a couple of photos.

one is with wings and spars on. wings not finished and i still need to finalise fixing spars to undercarriage. wings need ends and filler with canopy and servos and ailerons and flaps attached. they are all ready just not fixed.

spats are just placed there. oh my god trying to get them completed will be a pig.

 

If you are wondering why the spirit level is on the wings, so am i. i had just been checking that the left and right wings were level, and they were surpisingly and i forgot to take it off when i took picture and only realised when i uploaded and i must admit the effort of redoing a picture and uploading again didnt apeal.

 

second one is of the front with switch remote glow and auto filler valve. ( you can fuel and drain through same valve. two way valve. connects to carburettor.)

 

I have for the moment got a 6v eneloop receiver battery on top of engine.2000mah. cant fit anywhere else as its a flat one. i know plan shows a square 4.8v rx battery.may have to move it when i test c of g. I also have a 4.8v 5000mah battery i can use if i need more weight up front.

 

having just said what i have i will have to have plan C in case i need less weight at front. suppose i could add weight to tail or get a square one and try and fix against firewall.

 

forgive mess on table and grandsons high chair. in secong shot pilot is trying to get in to his seat.

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Jim

 

Edited By rookie jim on 25/07/2010 11:26:09

[MThemadhatter]

Nice work Jim

 

I have used a 6v 2/3A battery on mine as its more compact and lighter than the 6v pack your using and has a much higher C rating and voltage stabilitiy, which you need with 2.4G. I would suggest reinforcing the holes for your cowl screws. I used some of the brass ferrels (cant spell) you get with a servo and filled them down to the thickness of the cowl and glued them in. I will take a photo in a bit.

 

 

On to the pilot, what scale should I be looking at ? 1/8, 1/6 ect ?

[MThemadhatter]

This is the sort of battery I used

 

link.

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 25/07/2010 18:33:42

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

 Wonderful job pal,      you must be proud of your first true build,

and I'm really pleased for you  .

 

Terry

 

PS  Don't worry about tail weight as I'm sure you will not use it. 

[MThemadhatter]

Here is what I did with the cowl mount

 

 

[rookie jim]

max,

good idea to use the servo eyelets to reinforce cowl screw holes. will do likewise.

 

as for pilot, i dont know about size. looked for packet to try and give you an answer  but its been recycled. He may not be scale to plane but i do remember he was about  a fiver. had to make economies somewhere. i think he is 1/8th.

 

terry

yes feeling a lot more positive about it now.

 

jim

 

[Grahamd]

1/9th is the actual scale

[Supermario]

Hi guys

I see you continue with good progress with yours Lysanders.

What satisfaction for me see our team of Lysander builders working hard but geting so good results.

Jim, specially for you, my great simpaty, for what you acomplish.

I will follow your efforts and if you want some help just name it.

Kind regards

Mário