Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Hugh P]

Terry, thanks, yes I had considered it, but went with TN's original.

MT, Agreed, the 11oz tank is too big and have gone for the 9oz Slec and it indeed does bring the centre down.

HughP

[MThemadhatter]

You may already know this so apologies if this is like me telling you to suck eggs but try some different plugs. I bought an on board glow system but never used it. I found going from an OS-F to a modeltechincs Supercat plug gave me a much more reliable and steady idle at the expense of about 100rpm on the top end. I ended up fitting the Glo system into my now dead yak with a ASP120FS. The difference was very marked with that engine, far far better low end and idle with the model technics plug. Both my scale plains now have that plug in.

 

I am also a bit evangelical about cowled engines being ducted properly, and my system on the Lysander works really well at keeping the engine from getting to hot.

[Jonners]

Thanks Ernie, I have used tissue a lot in the past, but never silk or nylon - not sure I can get the right grade here in Thailand - though silk should be no problem!

 

Jonners

[Terry Whiting 1]

Max,

If you had a problems with a sidewind engine I'm sorry to say pal the problem

was of your own making

 These past 5 decades I have run engines in every configuration of the

12 hour clock with no problem.

Care must be taken with any inverted 4st especially if you have a

syphoning problem .Before applying any glow, ALWAYS check the

compression carefully by hand before using the electric start, as your

engine might have stopped with the inlet valve open, and syphoning

is slowly filling  the cylinder head.

 

Terry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MThemadhatter]

Must have been my luck then It did not syphon but just would not idle nicely and I never got the bottom end sorted. Swapped it for a saito125 which solved the problem until I flew it into the ground

[Terry Whiting 1]

 Max , not many engines like that type of sudden stop.

 

A few years back Mick Wilshire gave a method of tuning the slow running

needle for Super Tiger Engines, and this method I applied to any engine

with a twin needle carbs with success.

This method interested me as at that time Laser Engines used  ST carbs,

and Lasers were my choice of 4st. .

 

Remove the fuel feed, and in it's place push on a 30cm length of clean

tube. Close the main needle, and secondary needle(slow running), use a

model pin as a gauge and  close the carb barrel to the pin, remove the pin.

 

Put your ear to the carbnd the clean pipe in your mouth and blow, keep blowing

and SLOWLY open the slow running needle until you can JUST hear a slight

hiss.

Stop blowing and open the slow running needle a further 1/4 turn.

 

Reconnect your fuel line and start your engine, tune to normal running.

If the SR needle needs further adjustment, remember where the setting

was,and 1/4 turn adjustments only.

 

A correctly tuned engine never needs retuning  (twiddling) from one

session to another.

    

[David Horsell]

Hi All

Just a quick question, i'm slolwy getting on with the build and i'm working on the tail at the moment,

 

does anyone know the required movements for the elevtors rudder and airelons i can't seem to find anything in the mag or plans.

 

 

Kind Regards

Matthew

[MThemadhatter]

They are on the first sheet of plans,

 

Elevator 13mm

Aileron 8mm

Rudder 20mm

 

I have ended up with about 20mm on the elevator with 25 % expo to give more elevator authority when touching down to stop it nosing over. Rudder has about 25mm movement with 50% expo to give control on take off and good ground handling. The rudder is very effective in flight though and with those movements the plane will snap on you if your not careful hence the 50% expo. I find I need to use rudder to make nice scale like turns or it just seem to sit on its tail in the turns.

[David Horsell]

Thanks can't believe i missed them ,

 

good to know about the expo as well, i did wonder if it would need the rudder to turn i have a Flair, cub that seems to do the same thing when you turn it,

 

 

I’ll see if i can get some pictures up later today, I’ve not really taken many for some reason shame as this is my 1st plan build plane and I’m really happy with how it's coming out

On a side note i know that the elevator has 30mm each way, still working the rudder as i copied Mario's idea for the more scale look, not as neat as Mario's but still looks very nice .

 

one thing that has come up and I’m not sure if it's really a problem but i have already covered and glued the Tail, but have not mounted the wings yet,

 

My plan of action was to get the Tail post installed straight upright etc then mount the wing tube with the wings level to the tail. is that right way round to-do it, Like i said this is my 1st proper build and i hope I’ve not messed it up.

 

Kind Regards

Matthew

 

 

 

[David Horsell]

just got round to uploading some pictures not much progress recently but getting back into it now

 

 

Edited By David Horsell on 09/02/2011 19:12:19

Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 09/02/2011 19:57:28

[Terry Whiting 1]

David,

 

I can not see any dihedral in the wing, is it a photographic illusion?

[David Horsell]

i'll need to double check but i'm pretty sure it's just because the wings are not secure yet .

 

should find out later going to mount them

[David Horsell]

Checking the wings last night they are now secure to the plane and no problems at all,

 

I'm getting close to having to choose the pain for it, Do any of you have any good 3 view or similar pictures of the desert colors they used to fly?

I've looked all round the internet and can't seem to find any good ones.

 

 

Kind Regards

Matthew

[Jonners]

David, Here are a few images of the FSX desert livery - 'hope it helps!

[David Horsell]

thank you very much

[David Horsell]

Hi All me again

 

 

Decided to do a little work on the 2nd wing today had to put the LE on and sand to shape,

 

While i was doing that i remember why i had stopped the 1st wing is pretty much ready i need to work on my hinge lines as I’m not happy with the gap between the surfaces and the TE.

 

Anyways, I’ve glued and epoxied in 2 beach wood support to screw the servo door to that i have currently made out of 1/16 ply sheet. my question is whats the best way to secure the servo to the door I’ve been struggling with room to put an upright block inside to screw the servo to i might even have to remove a little of the rib next to the aileron door as the micro servo is about 1mm to big (would i need to add a 3mm sheet to the other side to reinforce the weaker rib) . Flap one seems okay.

oh and is 1/16 okay to make the door from once it's screwed in i think it would be pretty secure but this is my 1st build so not 100%

 

any Suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Kind Regards

Matthew

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Matthew,

 

Look at page 10 you will see a method of servo hatches and servo

mounting. Sometimes pictures are better than words.

 

Terry

[David Horsell]

Cheers can't believe i missed that .

 

Regards

Matthew

[Roger Adams]

First of all a big hello to all the contributors on this forum. I have been watching it since it started with the ambition of building my Lizzie when time permits. This time has now come and I have made a start. Armed with the wisdom of this topic I have hopefully avoided most of the potential pitfalls.

I have built the fuselage and the tail feathers and am now building the wing outer panels using the method posted by Terry Whiting to achieve some washout. (about page 29 or 30). Before I commit with glue there is a question I would like to ask. Terry makes reference to 'the steel rule check' in relation to sanding the top of the inner LE. What is the steel rule check?

Also with regard to Terry's wash out instructions, I was amazed at how the counter intuitive reverse taper creates washout when it appears to be creating wash in. Its only when assembling the ribs and realising how much they each have to be pushed down to meet the TE packing, that the washout becomes apparent. I would love to hear your explanation Terry of how you calculated the dimensions of the tapered TE packing strip.

[MThemadhatter]

Hi Rodger glad your enjoying your build.

 

If I had one piece of advice it is get your self an incidence meter and be absolutely sure that the inner and outer wing panels are at the same incidence. It's very hard to do by eye as the wing changes shape so much. One of my outer wing panels is out by about 2 degrees and I ran out of trim on the maiden !!!

 

I am putting together a video of mine, I just need to re-film a couple of bits this weekend and I should have it up next week.

[Roger Adams]

Thanks for the advice Mthemadhatter, I've often thought of an incidence meter but never actually acquired one. I have a birthday coming up soon, perhaps that should be on my list. Are there good meters & less good meters or are they all pretty much the same?

[MThemadhatter]

Robart make the only widely available one, its on my list of things to buy before I put together the inner and outer wing panels of the Bueafighter.

[Roger Adams]

Having just done 10 minutes of research the most widely available seems to be a digital version from Hanger 9. Since this is claimed to have a patent pending I assume its a new product.

[MThemadhatter]

I have not seen that one before.

 

As promised here is a video I Have put together of my Lysander, being flown in a scaleish and not so scale like way compelete with a demonstration of the strength of the build at the end.

 

 

[MThemadhatter]

Or here as the embeded thing does not seem to have worked

 

Lysander Video