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45cc Black Horse Chipmunk 85" Electric conversion


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I will try and remember that for next time........... Thx Chris owe you a beer.
 
For anybody remotely interested the key for the above drawing is:
 
Batt = cells (obvious one really)
 
ESC = Controller (again fairly obvious, I dare say you wouldn't be following this post if you hadn't figured that out  
 
UBEC = Battery eliminator, replces the Rx battery pack by reducing and smooting main battery supply to a high current, 6v supply (but you knew that too didn't you lol)
 
MUI = This is the Jeti sensor that detects the current, voltage and therefor by using time can calculate capacity used etc.
 
Cheers
Danny
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well getting closer. I have booked a days holiday on friday to hopefully get over and test fly Chippy so better get a move on.
 
 
 

The front end is all finished now, and much more rigid than it was. Not the tidiest joints in the world but they will do fine. I will check everything is still in place after the maiden (assuming it survives it )
 
 
 

Got to sort all the channels out next and add some small moulded covers for pushrod exits, Wheel leg covers and cut some identification decals.
 
If I say it quick it isn't much......
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Hi Ross, not sure on the full size i wouls suspect a seperate switch. I am using a 8 channel Rx so am not sure if i will have a spare channel to operate the light in any other way. I always tend to land with flap on windy days I only select half the amount available, just habit I guess. If I have a channel left over I will make it seperate - if I do actually make it operate at all.........
 
Cheers
Danny
 
 
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Am I the only one that has days when they feel they should just have stayed in bed?
Should have been an easy little bit of work on the wings. Just needed to add the undercarriage leg fairings..........
 
First of all the fairings are supposed to slide over the leg with the axles in place......they will not, they are fat fairings (too fat in fact) but they will not pass. You cannot remove the leg because the fairing would stop you putting it back on again  So you have to remove the axle which is held in place by a small grub screw.
 

You can then position the leg fairing and remove the wing film to give a good surface to bond the leg to. (The first prang and this is all going to look very second hand.)

Okay second reason for not getting up, this time my fault, I centralised the leg in the fairing and cut the film accordingly. WRONG the fairing is close to the front. I have some grey film scraps so will patch it up
 
Okay reason No three for not getting up today. Mounted the fairings, refitted the axles and tried to slide a wheel on
 

That wheel isn't even halfway onto the axle and it hits the fairing, so the fairing either needs shortening, the axle lengthening, or the wheel reducing.......
 
Wheres my duvet.......
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I am afrid you will have to wait for a full shot outdoors until the test flight as its too flaming big to  move around. This is only 1/5 I am starting to imagine what a 1/4 scale would be like
 
 
 

 
 

Anyway all the controls are set central by adjusting pushrods etc, no subtrims used. And then threadlocked.
 
The decals are all added and apart from some 2 core jst leads to make up from the UBEC and MUI (which arrived today (thanks Chris) and a final check that the c of g hasn't wandered off the wing we are good to go
Just the flaming weather to contend with now.......
 
Contact!!!!
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Thx Timbo, yes it is quite attractive though I still prefer silver Chippys. I hope this flys well, I have deliberately gone for the big pack to give me the duration needed for a little comp flying. About time us electric flyers mixed it with the IC'ers
 
Have you forgiven me Ross for the lack of functioning landing light ? I just shortened the fairing all around. i did think about notching it but thought that would look more obvious than it just being shorter.
 
I will hold off painting the prop until I confirm the pitch and diameter is right
 
By the way this is the Chippy I have based mine on

Cheers
Danny
 
 
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hi danny
     rx pack is not enough to drive a motor of that size it may arm but i'm pretty sure even a 6v pack would struggle to run it.......that said i think the set-up you have may be a little optimistic to fly that model on what surmounts to 2hp i reserve judgement till you've flown it but i would say be careful and treat it with kid gloves at first. i may and hope for your sake i'm wrong but it all seems a little too under what i would call a safe figure i would be looking personally for 2kw+
steve

Edited By nasa_steve on 16/12/2009 19:14:35

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Hi bruce, this is a non BEC esc so I am pretty sure I don't need to disconnect the red, I certainly haven't whenever I have used these ESC's before but I will double check to be on the safe side.
 
Hi Steve, I can assure you it spins with only the Rx battery (6v) plugged in. The A123/LiPo packs are in the other room LOL. I did photograph it spinning, but the light is insufficient without the flash, and of course the flash freezes the prop lol.
 
As for the amount of power required, Andy Glover has just recently won the Deeside Traplett flying only event with one of these on not the strongest 120 four strokes, developing 2hp at best, I have 1500 watts which is 2hp. It weighs 12lbs (now that those dodgey pilots are removed) so well in excess of 100w / lb it should be fine. It is after all a 1946 145Hp trainer, and I intend to fly it as such.
Though as they say the proof of the pudding is in the eating   of course I could be wrong, and that won't be the first or last time I am sure
 
Cheers
Danny
 
 
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Hmmmm - I dont think it should do that
 Disconnecting the red would surely not affect this scenario anyway - the red wire merely powers the receiver not the ESC output to motor.
So you have power connected to the ESC input leads at all? have you tried a MM across the inpout leads when the rcvr battery is powering the rx.... is there a voltage present?
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