Martin_H Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Has anyone tried using Deluxe's Superphatic on any of Robbe's Elapor models yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon barr Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I just use normal cyano with kicker... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 no, cyano and kicker works just fine as simon says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 I always by Multiplex own for Elapor think it works better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 I've just put a Funjet together using Poundland's best £1 for 10 tubes cyano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 Yes thanks guys I do use the superglue and kicker however I was wanting to involve my youngest boy without exposing him to those lovely fumes just yet. Deluxe Superphatic is virtually impossible to get here in Australia and I am waiting on a postal delivery from the UK. I was hoping someone may have tried Superphatic and have something to report back. Might just have to do a little experiment...watch this space! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 superphatic is designed as a wood glue like any other aliphatic adhesive. If you don't want the model to fall apart while flying, get your son involved in other tasks on the model and stick it together yourself. Alternatively, wear a mask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 Well, as to quote the Deluxe website: "High penetrating yellow aliphatic glue for close fitting pre-assembled joints. Drys fast and bonds wood, foam and plastic. Waterproof when set and produces tougher joints than superglue'. I know what its like with wood, just interested in the 'foam and plastics'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 well if you want to risk structural failure by not using the recommended glue go for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffrey bennett Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 hi whats the best glue to use on depron foam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffrey bennett Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 hi whats the best glue to use on depron foam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Hi Arte et Marty.....you might like to try one of the PU glues like Gorilla glue.....sticks almost anything (including some trim that came off the side of my whifes car!!!) & works very well on foam. The glue tends to foam up so joints need clamping while it dries (30 mins or so) but fume free & works extremely well!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 Thanks Steve! I checked out the PU glues at our local Bunnings (Trade/DIY store) as well as looking at a couple of other forums. Certainly looks a winner as far as stickability goes and I wonder if it could be used on ABS parts too. One of the recommendations I found was to spray or wipe one side of the foam with water and apply PU SPARINGLY to the other, bring together and clamp or tape together. I guess practice would make perfect. Another is to add PU to water, mix well, pour off the excess water then apply with a brush and clamp up. Both the brands I could find - Selleys and Vice, carry warnings about handling and fumes so I dont think it would be suited to those with a superglue allergy (PU contains a cyanoacrylate ester as a reagent) or for young children. I use an Aliphatic PVA for furniture and plywood construction projects including my teardrop camper trailer and am considering using PU to finish off the teardrop. Thats my excuse, anyway. If a little ends up glueing model aircraft, well, thats life! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 BTW, We ended up building the EasyStar using fibreglass tape and hot glue. I was very happy with the hot glue, holds servos in place very well and worked a treat on the tailplane. Trick was to position the parts then apply a hot glue fillet. I found the DIY hot glue guns a bit cumbersome so invested in a quality one - you can get different nozzles and variable temperature with the one I bought. The fuselage was quick and easy - hot glue the motor in place on one side then place both sides together. Use 1" tape around the fuselage forward of the canopy, forward and aft of the tailboom then add the antenna and control outers with blobs of hot glue and tape their length with 1/2" fibergass tape. From the forward antenna hole around the nose, up to and back inside the cockpit area we used 1' tape, as well as along the top of the fuselage above the wing and the top of the tailboom. Hot glue around the rear of the motor, hot glue the servos and control horns and the structure is complete. We managed to build a banana shaped fuselage that was easily remedied, would have perhaps been a nightmare had the usual superglue and kicker been used. In use the tape and the hot glue seems to flex with the elapor during not so gracious attempted launches and untidy landings but stays together in flight and so far the only maintenance has been to give the tape a rub down between flights. Compared with my 'traditionally' built (cyano/kicker) EasyStar the performance is similar despite the impression of the extra weight of the tape however I have not used any decoration on either model, apart from painting some red and blue stripes on the tail and black on the canopy. Both models would benefit from a brushless setup! I know of one modeller who is using this method on his Cularis, he is allergic to cyano fumes and was at a dead end when faced with the construction of the model. My next father/son project will be the EasyGlider and if that s successful then maybe the Twister! I do think though the Twister may be the time to introduce cyano and kicker to my son's building repetoire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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