RCRCM Typhoon Build

[Bruce Richards]

Thats who I use. Highly recommended and very quick delivery.

 

I have no relationship with this company other than a happy customer.

[Peewhit]

Came from component shop as advertised above, and arrived very quickly

[chrispy]

Posted by Peewhit on 14/01/2010 21:30:07:

Ok will try and make it as brief as possible.

 

The basis is the setting of ailerons as flaps/ailerons using flaperon mixing

 

Set up flaperon mixing for ailerons ie right aileron into aux 1 and left aileron into aileron

 

left flap into throttle channel.

disable gear switch by setting gear servo travel to 0,0

right flap into gear channel

PMIX 5 (so that flap trim levers will work) throttle master to gear slave - both flaps now work off throttle stick.

Use throttle servo adjust to set left flap movement and PMIX 5 settting for right flap movement.

 

crow braking - PMIX 2 throttle master to flap slave - both ailerons now travel the same way off throttle stick - note offset value of +100% needed

PMIX 1 throttle master to elevator slave -  gives elevator compensation - offset vale of +100% also needed.

 

thermal camber and speed reflex using 3 position flap switch -  I use down for thermal and up for reflex 'cause that's the way the surfaces move - set up required aileron movement using usual flap %ages

PMIX 3 flap master to throttle slave to set flap movement - the interesting and nicely surprising thing here is that both flaps move. I don't know why. could be something to do with the fact that they are linked on PMIX 5?

Anyway, it saves a crucial PMIX which leaves two free for flaperons.

 

Flaperons (flaps moving with ailerons)

PMIX 4 aileron master to gear (right flap) slave

PMIX 6 aileron master to throttle (left flap) slave

 

Bingo - it works

 

All donations please to McMillan Cancer Research

 

 Hi Peewhit,

 

Thanks for this. I have'nt tried it yet but intend to on my Alex Mini which I've ordered.

 

I have one question about where to plug the aileron servos into the RX. According to the DX7 instruction manual for flaperon wing type the left aileron is in AUX1 and right into

AILE.  You say in the reverse order. Can you please check which is correct?

 

Many thanks,

Chris.

[Peewhit]

Chris,

Thanks for spotting the error.

Right into AILE and left into AUX1

Will go and edit the post.

Peter.

[Peewhit]

Finally, a day with no fog, not too much rain and a hefty 25mph westerly which the Fusion had some difficulty penetrating.

 

The Typhoon just sailed out through it at a fair rate of knots.

Too much down elevator (all moving tailplane so difficult to judge) and a good dose of up trim soon sorted that.

 

It is fast, very stable and manouverable with a brilliant roll rate.

 

The recommended 4mm down elevator  compensation for crow is not enough and I ended up with 8mm for flaps at 90 degrees.

 

Having done that, it is a pussycat to land and floats down gently with just a touch of crow.

 

It took two flights to sort out the crow compensation and then I put the ballast in - all 24oz of it - and the fast beast became an absolute rocket, yet would still float up nicely on thermal flap/aileron setting.

 

When set to speed camber, it really comes alive, and the speed must be approaching some of the F3F ships I have seen.

 

Fun, fun and more fun.

I thought my ballasted Bedlam was fast, but it has nothing on this beast.

It looped with some difficulty and on investigation, the C of G was at 83mm and it should be 85 or a bit more.

Half an ounce of  lead removed from the nose now has it at 86mm.

Also, despite careful planning, the ballast moves the C of G forward by 4mm, so I need to shorten one piece of brass rod and use a longer wooden spacer.

 

In summary, excellent value and brilliant flight performance - can't wait to take it out again and try it inverted!

[Stefan_L]

Hi all,

 

I also bought a Typhoon at sloperacers and it looks good. The first hand starts at the flat field were fine. Unfortunately there is no wind for slope soaring in the next time.

Tomorrow will be the first start using a rubber or a winch to check all mixers etc..

Details how to install the hook are shown at http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php?t=222851

Text is in German but the pictures shows everything important.

The spae between ballast tube and fuselage has been filled with thick epoxy thru the hole for the hook. I drilled first thru the fuselage, than filled the space to the ballast tube with thick epoxy and next day I drilled the hole completely.

The hook is made from a M4 mm screw.

 

 

[Tom Satinet]

I'm not sure why you would want to put a tow hook on though. I don't see the Typhoon as a flat field model and a maiden in good slope lift will be easier than a short bungee flight.

[Stefan_L]

Hi Tom,

did you ever try slope soaring in Berlin? No hills nearby, so I want to be sure everything is fine if I drive approx. 2 h for slope soaring.

First flights using a rubber and a winch have been successfully.

Only one issue:

the right flap did not went back intro neutral positive after I used crow for the 3. landing at this day.

Reason was a little thermal expansion of the flap or wing because of the sunlight. The effect was reproducable so I sand a little bit at th elip of the flap.

Sometimes it's a very good idea to test a new model at the flat field

If this would happens at my favorite slope at 4 Bft a crash would be the result.

[Tom Satinet]

no, but I tried maidening all my models on the slope and have not had a problem with a mouldie yet. 

[FA]

Hi Guys,

 

Can anybody tell me how  the Typhoon wings and tailplane halves are retained in postion - not clear on any of the posts.

 

Thanks

TP

[Darran Powell]

Posted by FA on 16/01/2011 09:44:27:

Hi Guys,

 

Can anybody tell me how  the Typhoon wings and tailplane halves are retained in postion - not clear on any of the posts.

 

Thanks

TP

 

The wings are diamond taped on and you slide one tailplane half on the joiner push through the fin smear a small amount of prit ( water based glue) on the protruding end of joiner then slide on other half of that. When you have finnished for the day just pull the two apart.

 

[Peewhit]

Didn't expect to see this thread raised again.

 

FA, a strip of tape (diamond or insulating on the top of each wing, covering the joint the wing makes with the fus.

The wings don't really move at all - this is just a precaution - and a good one.

 

The tailplane halves are usually a tight enough fit to stay on without any glue or tape.

 If not, just bend the AMT control wire joining the two halves a tiny bit to provide just that small amount of tension.

[FA]

Thanks guys - never thought about using tape or glue for the job!

I've just returned to flying after a break of 15 years and getting used to new ways of doing things.

 

Thanks again - great forum!

 

TP

[Peewhit]

Well, the typhoon is nearly two years old and with over 150 hours in the air, the aileron and flap linkages have developed a lot of slop so it is time for a bit of a revamp for my favorite plane

 

The Hyperion servos are holding up well with no play in the output shaft, and the linkage to them is fine.

All the slop is in the control surface horns where the holes have worn into an oval shape.

 

I was originally going to line the holes with brass tube but when drilling the first hole out to 3mm the top of the horn shattered, so there was no alternative but to replace them.

 

In one of my drawers of bits i found an old and fairly large brass picture hanging bracket which was 1/16" (approx 1.6mm) thick which would make some new control horns.

 

The first job was to dremel out one of the originals and then set about making a duplicate

 

and then to make three more.

 

The horns are shaped to the profile of the ailerons and they just slot in nicely.

The placement of the horn is such that the clevis just clears the cowl of the wing - ie they are as "long" as possible.

 

 

Whilst I was at it, I redid the linkage to the servos with the control rod screwed directly into the servo arm so no slop here.

 

 

With the aileron horns shaped to the profile of the ailerons I expected the flap horns to be shaped to the profile of the flaps, and therefore larger.

But no, they were exactly the same size and therefore a loose fit in the flaps - well done RCRCM!

 

Consequently they needed some support whilst the epoxy and micro balloon mixture was setting

 

 

That 1/16" drill comes in very handy and is the ideal size for M2 metal clevises.

 

There is now no slop at all and just a light touch on the control surface has the servo buzzing to put it straight back where it was.

 

I flew it again today and the precision of control is fantastic - far better than when it was new. Cuban eights are a breeze.

 

Not bad for a battered old model which is approaching its second birthday.

[Julian Beckett]

Hows she going, any probs. Just ordered one, so interested to hear any issues...

cheers

 

J

Edited By Julian Beckett on 16/11/2011 22:12:03

[Peewhit]

She is flying very well and in a lot of ways I prefer to fly the Typhoon over the Wizard Compact. It is just so agile.

 

The nose has a weak point just where the ballast tube ends, and I reinforced mine on both sides with glass/epoxy.

I could have used carbon tow but not a good idea with 2.4 reception - kevlar?

 

One tip on C of G for you.

Forget the recommendation of "85mm then move back".

Mine is on 97mm and it handles like a dream with faster roll rate and much better inverted performance.

 

Take your time with the set up and give me a shout if you need any help.

 

Enjoy - it is a great model and fast becoming one of those classic designs.

 

Peter.

[Tom Satinet]

Great flying model.

I think the quality of them is really batch/date dependent.

Mine is nicely finished, but as Peter says there are weak areas.

on mine the nose cone has started to go "soft".

Not sure it is a model that could last you 10-15 years like a tragi or muller, but a very nice design.

[Peewhit]

Hey Tom,

 

Mine is nearly two years old and, having revamped the linkages, I am looking for it to last a lot longer yet.

 

Having said that, a lot does depend upon the landings!

[Chris P]

Hi guys

Just completing an electric Typhoon, what is the best way to keep the tail plane from sliding out, I don't want to fix it as its so much easier to transport without the tailplane fixed, in the old days with my algebra, I used to just bend the wires but with only one steel and one being carbon that is not possible.

Chris

[Peewhit]

Hi Chris,

Bend the steel wire just a little bit and then put Pritt Stick on the carbon rod each time it is assembled.

The Pritt Stick just wipes off with a damp cloth.

Mine has never moved.

[Chris P]

Posted by Peewhit on 16/07/2012 18:11:05:

Hi Chris,

Bend the steel wire just a little bit and then put Pritt Stick on the carbon rod each time it is assembled.

The Pritt Stick just wipes off with a damp cloth.

Mine has never moved.

Thats a good idea, I guess that the prit stick does not go really hard so it comes apart ok at the right time, yes will be using that trick.

thanks

chris

[chuck erdahl]

Hey nice build thread. I bought a Typhoon today and am looking forward to getting it flying!

Questions:

You mentioned a "the supplied harness". Did yours come with? Mine doesn't.

Was your deck already cut for installation of nose weight and servos, etc? Mine isn't and I'm a little bugged at that. I certainly can use a Dremel but I don't want to mess up the structure of the fuse in any way.

Chuck aka Sazfone

[Peewhit]

Hi Chuck and sorry about the quality of the photos - have since bought a new camera.

Mine was one of the first Typhoons and came from Sloperacer (Zim alias Warwick) with a wiring harness.

It is simply servo wire with servo plugs at one end and Multiplex Green connectors at the other.

If making my own harness, I would put the female connectors at the fus and the male connectors at the wings - less chance of loosening the male connectors during transport.

The deck is a weak point - particularly the bit at the front of the ballast tube.

Cut out only the minimum you need - in my case the servo and battery holes only - and try to reinforce the sides from as far back as possible to as far forward as possible, but do this AFTER you have brought the wiring through as there is very little space.

Hope this helps,

Peter.

[Tom Satinet]

Chuck,

 

Most moulded gliders don't have the inner nose cut out for the servos. Some do, but generally I think it's better that they don't because everyone wants to use different radio gear.  Here is the nose from a friends F3b model that I installed the gear in for him (very expensive model):

 

The inner nosecone is a problem on the Typhoon, as Peter says. Once you make your cut outs for your gear I would make plate with say 1/32nd ply with the same cut outs and glue it on top. In fact I would do it before the cut outs and just cut through both. Really you want to cut through were the pushrods come from and glue a tongue on the the ballast tube and fuselage sides.

What happens is the inner nose departs comany from the fuselage in a hard bang. There is not enough material there.

 

T

Edited By Tom Satinet on 18/07/2012 09:21:15

Edited By Tom Satinet on 18/07/2012 09:22:21

[Chris P]

Is it best to fix the Multiplex Green plugs in the Wing and fus or just join and thread them inside the fuse when flying?

i did not fix them in my Whisper and it seems to work ok,.

Chris