RCRCM Typhoon Build

[Chris P]

The Electric version seems a lot different to the plain glider, I have just fitted the Hyperion HP-GS22-12 and the rear servo"s in the provided bay.

A friend gave me a good tip: wrap the whole lot in clingfilm before any benchwork.

[chuck erdahl]

What servos fit well in the fuse and do the job? I bought HS 5085s and they look too big, even though strong and reliable. They are 29 x 13 x 30mm, the same as most of their other micros.

[Chris P]

I have fitted Savox SH0257MG, in the fuse.

[Peewhit]

Savox 0257 are fine.

IMHO Savox 0255 are the same size and a better servo.

There is really not a lot to chose between the two.

The E-Typhoon is a very different beast regarding servo placement.

[Chris P]

I wonder what the "Glider Version" is like in light flying conditions ..............not that we have had much of those conditions in the last three months.

[Speedster]

Typhoon in action:

[chuck erdahl]

I've have mine almost ready to fly. I taped and glued in my 10mm KST wing servos to the the interior servo bays instead of using the supplied servo mounts. They added 2 mm of height. I had to bend the wing push rods to get them running just under the wing surface, instead of catching it. My rudder would'nt open to the left. I found the vinyl wiper was oversized and jamming up against the right side. I cut and trimmed it to get equal with the right. Works fine now. I had to sand on one side or the other on the ailerons to get them to open equally. Lots of little imperfections and lots of finish work. I don't think the builders of this plane actually go out and fly very much or they would know.

I will say Typhoons fly great once you get them built. Thanks for all of your help on this site, I appreciate it. I also got a lot of help from Wayne at Aloft Hobbies. He's a great builder/flyler and supplier of quality glider goods. Check him out.

I post a few picts in a day or two.

[Chris P]

I got some KST servo's for the wing I also can't decide if to use the mounts or not, but on my last glider I just typed and glued and that system does seem to work very well.

[Lee Smalley]

Lots of little niggles yes but that is why you pay 300 quid not 700 quid

my e typhoon fus has savox 255 in and kira 480 on 5:1 gearbox 16x 10 prop

[chuck erdahl]

I really like the Spektrum 6200 receiver fits in my Typhoon. Besides being compact, the servo leads plug on the front instead of the ends. I was able to bring in the leads through a "hatch" in the deck and keep all the messy wires down below and out of sight

Edited By chuck erdahl on 11/08/2012 02:13:47

[PMIKEY]

Is This the Bargain of the century??????

http://www.apachobby.com/airplanes/electric-gliders/e-typhoon-pnf.html

An E-Typhoon 'built with top quality gear' for less than £470 including wing bags. My order is in, and at this price i might get two.

[RGPuk]

Posted by Mike Pinington on 05/09/2012 22:27:33:

Is This the Bargain of the century??????

Fingers crossed customs don't nab the box for VAT and duty. Let us know how you get on and about the quality of the build package.

Ro.

[PMIKEY]

Ok model arrived and looks superb!!! and i did not get nabbed for customs, Then i go and try to get the thing ready!!! left aileron servo locked solid and just sits there getting hot and same thing on the right flap servo, now i have had dodgy servos with artfs before but 2 savox sh-0255mg being faulty in one model must be more than coincidence!!

i have e-mailed Asia Pacific Hobby and am awating a responce, in the mean time i have to remove two servos from a model i have never flown and have paid to have built for me. I wont make this mistake again, such a shame as the model is otherwise great value.

Any suggestions as to what servos to get to replace these crappy savox things with???? i have read bad things about the Hyperions going sloppy and i really just want fit and forget reliability.

[ken anderson.]

hello mike---bad luck and all....we use Hitec M/G servo's for most glider controld...worth considering..

ken anderson....ne..1 glider dept.....

[RGPuk]

I'm really sorry to hear of the servo issue Mike - especially when the process seemed to have gone so smoothly and avoided the attentions of customs.

One can't help but wonder if the faulty units in your Typhoon weren't subjected to a prolonged stall when they were powered up and adjusted for fitting - or if indeed they managed to escape QC during a shortcut from production to assembly of your package.

To be fair the six 0255's in my Luna are still going strong after 2+ years of hard work, with only minimal slop in the geartrain having developed.

To keep things symmetrical and simple, maybe it'd be best just to get a couple of replacement Savox's from T9, and pursue APH for some recompense.

**LINK**

Ro.

 

Edited By RGPuk on 13/10/2012 11:14:26

[Bill_B]

I use MKS DS460 Metal Gear Digital servos in various gliders. They're small, light, powerful for their size and not too expensive. 

Edited By Bill_B on 13/10/2012 11:39:32

[Peewhit]

Hi Mike and bad luck.

Savox 0255s are normally very good.

Are you sure that it is the servos and not the wiring harness - ie have thay been wired up correctly.

You could try connecting the servos dierctly to the receiver.

If it is definitely the servos, then as Ro says, the simplest and probably cheapest fix is to replace them with two of the same.

Otherwise, you are going to be playing "musical chairs" to pair them up.

If you do go for other servos, watch the depth as the wing is very thin for the aileron servos.

The Savox are 12mm deep and I am surprised that they fit in.

My Typhooon has Hyperion - 090 (9mm) on the ailerons and 095 on the flaps.

It is now nearly three years old with over 200 hours in the air. I have repaired it several times yet those Hyperion servos are still precise, center well, and have no slop.

[PMIKEY]

Ok quick update, i e-mailed Asia Pacific last night about the issue and got an alnost immediate responce asking me to take the wiring harness out of the equation and to test the servos individualy direct on the receiver, this is of course the first thing i tried when i realised there was a problem, so i e-mailed them back stating the results, they have responded to this again almost immediatly with instructions on how to replace the offending servos and they are sending two replacment servos direct to my home.

Why cant i get this sort of service in the UK!!!!!????

So firstly yes i am a bit miffed that the servos where indeed faulty but they have more than made up for this with what i can only say is outstanding customer service.

Secondly removal of the servos has prompted me to look closly at the build quality of this model and i have to say i am impressed, the wiring is properly soldered to multiplex connectors which have then been hot glued to keep the wires and solder connections clean, all the leads are correctly identified with little tags and the servo installation looks to have been done using masking tape around the servo and then epoxied direct to the carbon reinforced wing skin. the only quality issues i have found is that the servos extension leads are not locked or soldered meaning if you pull the wiring harness in a ham fisted manner at the field you run the risk of pulling out the extension lead, not good if you dont know about it but in hindsight it means servo removal for me is very simple.

If i where to point out a dislike that could be improved it would be the esc installation the leads to the motor are five inches long but this is an easy fix.

As for the airframe, its a later example of the Typhoon with carbon reinforcement in areas that need it and the overall fit and finish is good, i have had to relieve the rudder slightly to get full movement bind free and if i look at the decals that are applied in the mould some of the edges are not as crisp as they could be so standard RCRCM quality.

Now i just have to sit back and wait for the servos to arrive.

[PMIKEY]

Just a quick note.

I am planning on using a JR9X transmitter which has a Spektrum DM9 module so all should be good in my hands but what receiver should i use???? the ar7000 i have is not going to be easy to fit and there is a lot of Carbon in the wing seat area. any ideas please woul;d be appreciated.

[Peewhit]

I run a DSX9 2.4, had the same situation with my Stinger, and used a Spektrum AR 6255 receiver which is DSM2.

It has two long antennae which are designed to exit the fus and be taped (or whatever) to the outside.

You only need the last inch or so outside the fus.

It is nice and small at 18 x 35 x 10mm so should fit nicely, and also has plugs in the end.

I get a 50 yard range check with the bind button depressed and have never had a brown out or any loss of control.

 

Edited By Peewhit on 13/10/2012 16:25:16

[Hydeflyer]

I've just got my Typhoon from T9 Hobbysport and I downloaded the instruction manual (writtenby the designer) via the link on the RCRCM web site (some weeks ago; the link doesn't seem to work now). In the manual it states "Using your wife’s best saucepans, melt about a pound (0.5KG) of lead" for the nose cone and "Now fully assemble the plane and test the CG at 65mm to start."

All the build threads I have seen (including this one) suggest about 8 or 9 oz (half a pound) and a CofG anything from 83mm to 97mm . Can anyone explain the discrepancies this please? I am totally confused already!

[Peewhit]

I think that some parts of the manual are written very much "tongue in cheek" hence using "your wife's best saucepan" and "about a pound of lead".

The C of G quoted as 65mm is definitely a misprint and should read 85mm to start.

I am now running my Typhoon at 97mm and it flies much, much better.

7oz of noseweight brought my Typhoon to 85mm, and I have since removed about 2oz of that.

Complete the model then look at what noseweight is needed.

Balance it up with weights temporarily taped to the outside of the nose and that is how much lead you will need to put inside.

[Hydeflyer]

Thanks for that. I was pretty sure the 65 mm couldn't be right, nor the pound of lead. Nice to have that reassurance though with yours being the most recent build thread.

In your early build notes you showed some rather blurry pictures of spruce rails to support the R E servos, did you glue these rails under the deck or to the side walls, or both?

On Pierre Rondel's notes on the build he shows the servos screwed through the deck but it's not clear if there's anything underneath.

[Peewhit]

As I have found out the hard way, the weak point on the Typhoon is just at the front of the ballast tube.

This area does need reinforcing, so when I repaired mine I put in longer spruce rails going as far back into the fus as I could practically manage.

They were shaped to the side profile of the fus and then epoxied to both the under deck and sides.

Note that before gluing anything in this area you do need to bring the wiring through because you will not be able to do it afterwards.

Just shout if you need any more help, and good luck with the build.

My Typhoon is now nearly three years old, has been repaired a few times (usually broken due to my stupidity) and still flies superbly.

I have nine gliders yet the Typhoon goes with me on every trip to the slope.

It is a classic model.

[Hydeflyer]

Thanks for the advice.

I will be starting the build in earnest in the New Year and might take you up on your offer of help. It's all very new to me having served only a minimal apprenticeship on more traditional builds.