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GWS TEXAN 39 inch Electric


Stephen Grigg
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A year ago I bought a GWS kit in the club Bring and buy.Unfortunately I was supplied with the incorrect paint and it had an adverse effect on the fuz and I gave up trying to repair it.As I had all the running gear Ive decided to use it on the Texan,and should be able to fly it with the snow.Its White.Ive bought the SG version only £25 ,I started it last evening



S Ive done the ailerons,Glued the strengthening rods into the wings and glued the wings together.Ive also glued the fuselage together
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Its amazing value as you say Ken and an interesting build compared to say a Seagull kit.I left everything to dry and although the fuselage is fine the wings were no.Ive left them on the top of the boiler only gets warm to cure before continuing.Wantt to ensure the provided glue is OK.Its a bit runny so maybe Im using to much and it needs longer to dry.Im not sure apart from there olwn what is safe to use.Any advice would be gratefully received.I thought Id some items missing but when I checked Galaxys Website nothing that was missing showed and they confirmed this,so I have to think out how to fit the power pack.I have an idea but any suggestions!!!
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stephen-first time round i used the supplied glue-then after that i used 5 min epox...as for painting it you will have to get some of the foam friendly stuff..or acrylic or depending on what colour scheme---you can use ordinary emulsion...
 
      ken anderson........dont eat the yellow snow party ne 1.
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Hi Steven,
I had the GWS Texan (painted as an RAAF Wirraway, a ground attack plane based on the NA-16) until my son piled it in for the last time last year. I also have two of the GWS FW 190s, which are fantastic, and the ME 109.
The GWS glue is a total waste of time. As Ken said, 5-min epoxy is the way to go with these kits. The EPO versions are O.K. with cyano, but not the standard versions.
For paint, I spray primed them all with CarPlan super acrylic spay primer, and finished off with Tamiya acrylic paints, either brushed or sprayed on, and a coat of B&Q satin acrylic varnish. 
I tend to make motor mounts these days from a stack of hard balsa discs, epoxied together, and to the firewall, and faced with 1/16" ply to take the screws for the motor radial mount.
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Thanks for the advice Ive epoxy 5 min in stock,Im painting mine uuurh White with contrasting black stickers,Its a winter time camourflage.I checked the wings this morning and theyre fine now.Lots of tugging and everything stayed in place.The receivers arrived this morning,brilliant service from Brentford models

Edited By Stephen Grigg on 09/01/2010 10:04:20

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Heya Stephen,
 
Try and get as much movement in the elevator as possible. I didn't, and now regret it! Also, the recommended C of G is too far back in my mind. When I flew the model on the stated C/G the thing was bouncing around the sky like a bucking bronco!
 
All in all, a really nice model to fly!
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Things went well last night especially now Im using 5 minute Epoxy,much quicker.Found a mount for the motor and fitted that and the nose cone Did the elevator hinges and glued the horizontal stabilizer in place then  the rudder hinges and glued that in place.Then the canopy..Now I need your advice/. Are the decals stick on with a backing sheet? I spent ages trying to get the backing sheet off with no luck any tips pleaseFinally I fitted the prop and nose cone  .It states in the instru7ctions to use the provided 2 sided adhasive tape to fit the servos ,have you found this is enough?.This is tonights job and the servo pushrods

Edited By Stephen Grigg on 10/01/2010 10:44:37

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yo stephen-the decals-you cut out off the sheet and peel off the backing----the double sided servo tape work's a treat as well-what i normally do is- be it on foam or wood- any spare 5 min epoxy you have left over smear it on the wood or foam -where you intend putting the servo-after it has dried out mount the servo - it'll stick like a goodin.
 
   anderson's model clinic ne 1..........
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I painted mine in NZ airforce colours. A superb flyer but watch if you spin it. The wing on mine came away on the sixth turn. I reinforced the the area around the wing bolt with a very thin ply plate after glueing the rest of the bits together with my trusty hot glue gun.

Like Ken I am on my third GWS Corsair. The second is still flying and with a terrific leap of imagination, and lots of hot glue, the first could probably also rise from the ashes. Another great kit and superb flyer.

Hope the maiden flight goes well and positive you will enjoy it.
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Thanks Andy Ive managed to get the hang of the Transfers and a bowl of water bit  tricky they want to split but there are 2 big sheets and now need a biggercontainer to put them in.I also seem to have found the problemo with the receiver,I appear to have a duff one.It binds but then the light goes dim as if a flat battery.Tried another 1 and it now works a treat.So now Ive the servos centred and mecanically adjusted I can now glue them into position.Tomorrow that will be the first job followed by finishing the transfers
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The cowls fix easily with clear Sellotape,Stephen - Ask me how I know! They could do with a  lot of rein forcement anyway, if you're going for hand launch/belly land. I use duct tape on the inside, sellotape on the outside. If all else fails, they cost about a fiver from your local Perkins dealer! ( I've just bought two for the Focke -Wulfs).
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Hi Stephen,
 
No not yet, I removed the retracts and fitted larger wheels to the fixed U/C.
Last time I tried to fly it the motor refused to run,fitted a new glow plug and checked the plumbing , waiting for the weather to pick up.
I may try to make a temporary runway out of old strips of carpet .
Decided to put the Boomer together with the taildragger mod, I know that will fly from my patch. 
The Seagull Dewoitina 520 is awaiting 8x servos and all the bits needed to put it together (lack of funds).
 
The GWS Texan is looking good ,
I hand painted my 190 with acrylic paints after spraying a silver foam friendly base coat. 
 
Cheers
Kelvin   
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