Craig Carr

Hi Martin, I still haven’t flown mine but I also thought the grass situation you have encountered was a real possibility. I have some car body mesh from Halfords, like this and I wondered about making a screen over the cheater holes to help prevent FOD into the fans. I don’t think it will impact too much on the effectiveness of the cheater holes?

Hello RW. I used to work in the business rates dept for a local council albeit 23 year ago The advice above is spot on. The local authority has a legal obligation to assess the rateable value and the amount payable is calculated from that. But then they can apply a discretionary 100% relief to the club. It’s quite a straightforward form to complete things like if the club are accessible to all the community and don’t make a profit etc etc all count in the applications favour craig

Hello Ronos I built a TN Airbus that was a half former kit. What I did was laminate the two keel/centre ply sections then pin the laminated centre section down on the building board then add all the half formers i then unpinned it from the board and locked it into my slec building board along the centre line to ensure it was still straight I then added the half formers on the other side, followed by the longerons etc hope this helps craig

Hi Dave. similar(ish) to you except I have a 2s LiFe battery in my 16sz I would go along with Andy but I personally also open the case bottom and slide the battery out during the charging process (but still leave it plugged into the tx within the battery bay) as it’s a lipo you really need to see what’s happening during the charge and not leave it inside the tx (where you can’t see it) as lipos should always be supervised during charge. you should hopefully have enough battery lead length for it to remain connected to the tx but able to sit outside the battery bay for monitoring purposes The reason I don’t disconnect it from the tx completely for charging Is to avoid constantly plugging and removing it from the tx battery pins, I’ve heard stories where over time that can fatigue the pin connection to the tx board, possibly giving a bad connection (which wouldn’t be good if your models in the sky at the time ?) craig

Hi David, the 60/40 solder that Dwain mentioned is the stuff I use all the time, absolutely fine. top tip....when you solder your multiplex plugs, plug a male and female together during the soldering process. if you accidentally overheat a pin when soldering the plastic will soften and the pin may no longer be straight and you may not be able to rejoin them, but keeping them paired together will keep the male pin straight when the plastic cools again. ask me how I know ?

Hello Robert, If anything once ive brushed the ammonia on I only leave it for 5 mins at most and then it should flex around the formers etc without splitting I apply neat. Craig

Had a super day yesterday, nice weather, first time flying since about Sept/October. Nice to see the lads again. A few flights with my TN Vulcan and a nice socially distanced picnic lunch.

Hi Robert. I bought mine online. Easily available from eBay This one here

Hi Robert, Thats an excellent job your making, very nice work! for bending your sheeting, have you tried ammonia? Its far superior to water. I brush it on neat and have never noticed any swelling. I then clamp/pin to the formers and leave overnight. I did the length of my concorde this way (2 halfs from the top center stringer down to the wing). When I realeased it from the formers and the ammonia had evaproated it held the shape perfectly ready for glueing Craig

Hello Basil, Prostate specific antigen (PSA). there’s a good article here on the nhs website that should give you a little insight Quote:- PSA is a protein made only by the prostate gland. Some of it leaks into your blood, but how much depends on your age and the health of your prostate. If you're aged 50 to 69, raised PSA is 3ng/ml or higher Mine was 6.7 so higher than recommended by nhs, but word of caution it’s quite an unrealiable test, certain factors can give false positives. But my doc advised me to start the ball rolling with a DRE, then an MRI. Ultimately leading to a biopsy and positive cancer confirmation. But caught early enough that I could have it removed. Andy, thank you, I think all is well almost a year later. I’ll be due my second six monthly PSA re-test anytime now. Craig

That’s a great score Andy. Mine was 0.2 ..6 months after surgical removal of the prostate ... so if yours is that using RT I would be very happy pleased this thread is still around and prominent and getting the awareness message out there .... I probably owe my life to it

Hi David. That’s a really nicely looking model. Which manufacturer ?

Hi Allan, I had a hunt around and found this picture of my watt meter on a ground run. This was the reading from just a pair of fans though, so double up say a 1000 watt

I agree. At first I thought end of an era but it gives so much more functionality, what we’ve all been asking for for years. Hats off to everyone involved behind the scenes.

Allan, just a thought, the FMS units Tony recommends for his concorde would be a perfect match for this model See here

A little more footage vulcan landing.mp4

Hello Allan, it’s a 3s set up but I used the 50mm dr mad thrust fans from hobby king (no longer available) but upped the blade count to 12 (or 11 can’t recall) blades. If I were to make the model again I reckon 4s is a better option. GG, I tried embedding the video as an experiment of the new forum functionality, sounds like it worked ok for Allan. I’m not sure why you should get that ?

Its took a day of faffing but im starting to get the feel of this site. Well done to all involved?

I dont have a youtube account but just thought id try out the functionality of the new forum to post videos direct. I think ive done this correctly. Here is my Vulcan from last year. Apologies footage not great just from my mates phone. 1110941888_vulcantakeoff.mp4

Mine have disappeared as well.

Hello David, Is the D100 the same charger that was reviewed in the mag last year ? it tickled my fancy at the time, looked just the business

Welcome back Weaz from a fellow Carr....

Posted by Brian Cooper on 08/01/2021 08:58:56: If you want to get really posh, wrap the servo in a heat-shrink covering before gluing it into place . . This makes it really easy to remove the servo in the future. . It is also less of a struggle to clean off the old glue from the airframe. Plus one for the heat shrink method