chris larkins
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Everything posted by chris larkins
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82db ?
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Model flying photos you're proud of
chris larkins replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in Photography
I took these pictures recently, a clubmate's e-flite T-28 -
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NIMH or SBEC and lipo for ic?
chris larkins replied to Gordon Brown's topic in Gadgets and Electronics
I have used a 2s LiFe in the last 5 I.C models that I have put together, unless I really have an issue with nose weight I will always use these in the future. For their size they offer a really good compromise between weight/capacity and of course offer the benefit of a higher voltage for increased servo speed/torque and are actually cheaper than a "good quality" 4.8v NiMh of similar capacity, they also hold their charge for months. Hobbyking sell a 2s LiFe which they market as a transmitter battery however it is perfect for use as a receiver pack as it is fitted with a standard JR plug **LINK** .........just make sure your charger is LiFe compatible !! I bought a second hand model that is also fitted with 3003's and I have used the LiFe pack with no voltage issues whatsoever, however as Martin mentioned in an earlier post fitting a diode similar to this one **LINK** inline in the positive wire of the switched side of the RX switch will drop the voltage to approx. 5.9v Unlike a LiPo there is no risk of the battery catching fire during charging so they can be safely charged in the model, you may just need to fit a balance extension lead so that you can balance charge if the battery is not easily removable. There is no need to use a separate SBEC or UBEC. Edited By chris larkins on 22/03/2017 22:49:16 -
CMPRO Mitsubishi Zero engine thrust settings
chris larkins replied to Gordon Brown's topic in Scale Matters
Any update on this model? Have you flown it? I have one of these in a box and it may be next in line when the building board is free -
My club is based just outside of Luton, on the A505 **LINK**
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Can You Name ALL These WW 2 Aircraft?
chris larkins replied to Dai Fledermaus's topic in Full Size Aviation
46 for me, with 1 or 2 educated guesses. -
I may have misread the original post, if the transmitter is the JR DSX9 then it will be DSM2. If it is the Spektrum DX9 then my post above will apply
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Posted by Gary Manuel on 29/01/2017 11:25:34: Posted by chris larkins on 29/01/2017 00:14:23: If your transmitter is one of the earlier versions which still supports DSM2 don't be tempted to go down this route, DSMX is the way to go. Would you mind elaborating on this Chris? Assuming his DSM9 is DSM2, what is wrong with going down the DSM2 route? What advantage will going down the DSMX route give as they will work but only in DSM2 mode? The early DSX9 Transmitters use the DSMX protocol but were also backwards compatible with older DSM2 receivers (my transmitter is one of those), this means that you have the choice of buying DSMX or DSM2 receivers and they will both work. My point was that IF you have this choice then DSMX receivers are definitely the way to go for some very well documented reasons. Of course if Adam's transmitter is one of the latest ones it will only use the DSMX protocol.
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If you don't want to cut costs then stick to Spektrum! However........most of us do want to look for a cheaper alternative. I also have a DSX9 and I have used Lemon receivers with good success. I have one of their receivers with a built in Gyro and this works very well and has given rock solid RF performance, I can thoroughly recommend the Lemon telemetry units too as they work very well and are ridiculously cheap compared to the Spektrum offering considering they come with all sensors. They have also just released a range of receivers which have built in telemetry (as Spektrum and OrangeRx already do). BRC Hobbies stock them in the UK **LINK** If your transmitter is one of the earlier versions which still supports DSM2 don't be tempted to go down this route, DSMX is the way to go. Edited By chris larkins on 29/01/2017 00:17:13 Edited By chris larkins on 29/01/2017 00:17:33
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I personally have never used a single battery for the RX & the Ignition and so far have always used a separate 4 cell NiMh pack for the Ignition.......................... HOWEVER ................I recently watched the following video from Redwing RC who sell a battery with two outputs and actually recommend using a single battery as long as you are using 2.4ghz.............watch the video and make your own mind up. Edited By chris larkins on 06/12/2016 21:41:31 Edited By chris larkins on 06/12/2016 21:42:07
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The trouble with a Go Pro is the lack of zoom, if you are filming from the ground in no time the model will be a speck in the sky unless you can zoom in, it needs to be an optical zoom too otherwise the quality will drop dramatically. You can get fairly good results from a reasonably cheap handheld camera, mine is a Panasonic HC-V100 that I bought several years ago, this records in 1080p on an SD card and has a 42x zoom and image stabilization, if you didn't mind second hand they can be picked up on eBay for around £50. A more current model such as the V160 is around £130 (in the sale at Curry's), obviously other makes are available but I don't have any experience with these Below is a video I took with my HC-V100, make sure you set the quality to HD when watching
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Thanks for your reply John. The reason that I was thinking of converting to petrol is to try to get away from 3 different power sources that I currently use (Electric/glow/petrol) and stick to just electric & petrol. I own a few petrol engines and I am always impressed with the lack of equipment needed and the distinct lack of fiddling required (usually), they also run very clean and although not quite as important with an engine of this size the fuel is very cheap. The biggest problem that I have had, along with others, is the fact that the carb on a glow engine is just not designed for use with petrol and although it can be set to run well the needles are so sensitive that just one click either way makes a huge difference. I am sure you are aware of this already but there is an independent guy selling conversion kits for all popular 4 stroke glow engines, ranging from a full kit to individual parts. Anyway for his Laser conversions he is using a carb from an evolution 10cc petrol engine and supplying it with a machined adaptor to fit the Laser head (picture below). I already have all the parts necessary to do this conversion with the exception of the machined adaptor (I was going to ask a clubmate with a lathe to make this for me). There are videos of these conversions on youtube and they seem to run well, however if there is a good reason that this is not good for the engine in the long term then I would consider sticking to running it on glow. I would be interested to hear why you think this may result in mechanical failure as this might help me to make my mind up.
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These 2 questions are for John Harper really, firstly I have just obtained what I believe is a Laser 100 from a club member that has had it sitting in a drawer for at least 20 years (he thinks it may be far longer), it had only about 30 mins running before being laid up so is like new and turns over freely. When I say that it's a Laser 100 this is an educated guess as there are absolutely no engravings of any kind to confirm that, the distance from the crankshaft to the top of the rocker box is approx 100mm. John could you confirm that it is a 100 and also take an educated guess as to its vintage? (picture below) Secondly once I have run it on glow and verified that all is well I am thinking about converting it to petrol (as I have successfully with an Sc 1.20 4 stroke). I know that this is not recommended but if you were to recommend an oil mix what would it be? 1:30 on fully synthetic or more/less?
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Those connectors are commonly known as Ashlock connectors, they are available from a few vendors, see links below **LINK** and UK jet shop **LINK**
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A model can be modified to have a canister fitted even if it was not originally designed this way. The photo's below show my Seagull Edge 540 v2 fitted with an MLD 35cc petrol engine and an internal canister muffler. The firewall was opened up with an appropriate size hole saw, I also made up a liteply ring which fits around the rear of the canister to keep it secure, both the firewall and liteply ring are lined with silicon tube split along its length to keep it secure and reduce any vibration. This set-up with a Biela 20 x 8 prop came out at just under 82db measured on my club's noise meter.
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Ours is £87 inc BMFA, for that we have access to a 5 1/2 acre field that is owned outright by the club with 3 runways, clubhouse with kitchen and a garage, we also have a free BBQ once a year during our mid-summer fly-in.
