flight1
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Everything posted by flight1
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yes I have one ( NGH 38fs ) goes well one had it on the bench so far , but it is well made and runs well and I also have the Gt25 2 stroke and thats in a 3d profile just about to fly very happy with it , espesially with 10% off at the moment. The 1/4 db was designed four a 120 (20cc ) glow i would have thought a 38cc would be a bit much, but it woud sound good at 1/4 throttle any more and it would be spitefire-like but leaving the wings behind in my opinion. I also have a laser 200v and that was shoehorned into a 1/4 hanriot HD1 its fist flight on a dead calm day I never whent above 1/4 throttle on a 18X6 Xzor ww1 prop very scale like, I subsequeently replaced it with a AS160 twin which is perfect. the laser is in now a 1/4 scale sukhoi and I drool evry time I fly it soo many choices i find it hard too
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Have you considered the new laser 155 which is able to turn a large prop?
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Well i have used these people for my blades http://scalpelsandblades.co.uk 2 packs of 50 no11 blades £8.99 got the metal retractable handle Retractaway Knife 2800. I find this a must have for saftey
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Heres the link for microsoft security http://windows.microsoft.com/en-GB/windows/security-essentials-download It is free and works . I used to have avg and it slows your PC down
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Microsoft security essentials works for me, no bloat ware and is free and it auto updates, very hassel free and no issues. Just remember to remove Norton before hand, this goes all anti virrus software
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Cymaz I will come but you will have to lend me one of your CF planes
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What I think is the best way is to 50mm kingspan/solotex etc, place this directly against the wall use foil tape to seal all joints so the foil face of the board is now the vapor barrier , then you fix baton ( roofing 25 x 50) at 400 centers vertically by drilling through the baton / insulation and fixing with long screws. The plaster board goes on top and you have a nice gap behind for services or instead of baton build a 2 x 2 frame and fix top and bottom this saves drilling thought the insulation. Don't for get the floor as it make a big difference to the comfort of your feet, you don't realize how much until you have done it.
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Hi epoxy needs to be above certain temperatures for the chemical reaction to take place (cross linking of thr polymers) What you can get away with depends on what type of epoxy resin you are yousing and the hardener. A rule of thumb 15c is the lowest temp for most to get full cure (cross-linking of the polymers). you will get away with lower if a fast hardener is used. If it is to cold it my never harden and on the borderline the epoxy will harden to touch but it won't be at is full strength and will age and fall quickly. i think in your case after two days and it has not hardened you will not be getting the full structural strength of the resin,hopefully it will harden enough to sand and be strong enough, good thing it is the fuselage and not the wings which would proberly be relying on the the lamination for full structural integrity. Just remember to always mix epoxy resins accuratly and well to get the best out of it and 20 cel is ideal. It is a lot better and lighter that using polyester resins which go hard by a catalytic reaction. Cheers Rich
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Edited By flight1 on 20/01/2014 20:59:04
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Hi Chris in your opening post you mentioned that there were issues with the orange module please could you tell? as I have got a orange module plugged in and have only used it n one plane so far but it has worked faultlessly so far. The one thing I do know is that you must not power the module up with out the aerial plugged in as it mucks up the rf out put. Cheers Rich Edited By flight1 on 20/01/2014 20:26:03 Edited By flight1 on 20/01/2014 20:27:41
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login just by cliking login at top of page with your exsisting pass word, click settings -then click my account, should be easy after that
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Hi just seen this a a rotary tooland bit accessories if any one is interested http://www.ebuyer.com/daily-deals?utm_source=b2c_wednesday&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=b2c_wednesday £16.99 for 160 bit and tool seems ok -
Here I was just looking the other day K S metals available from lots of model shops, heres one http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/brass-streamline.html
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cliff charlesworth ASK18
flight1 replied to ceejay's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
i believe sarik do canopies for ask 18 http://www.sarik-vacform.com/aircraft.html Hope It helps -
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Can't fly with out a tray. Always had one and handy when self launching as the transmitter is always steady and in the same place with just a neck strap it is liable to swing all over the place. The tray gives some ware to rest your hands and to relax your arms giving full control with your thumb and fore finger. Tried usesing just strap when I got my new Tx (taranis) and I was all over the place, with the threat of knoking the throttle stick very relevent, never a problem with a try and strap. So I had to make a tray pronto for my new Tranis TX, so I modified a cheep one from hk to great sucsess see.. Edited By flight1 on 22/12/2013 16:06:17
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Cymaz you been waiting years to show that vid again but it is most aplicable in this ocasion, wow wow you secret Bush fan you
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For Planes over 20Kg you need to go through the LMA this is for gliders or power planes. aircraft between 7kg and 20kg have certain requirements like radio failsafe , but best to see the BMFA guide handbook for clarification. Edited By flight1 on 19/12/2013 22:43:45
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And I forgot http://lasercutsailplanes.co.uk/ Most of what you linked to in the first post is available a lot closer
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Here's a few links for big gliders to build Clif Charlesworth http://flyingscalemodels.com/plans/cliff-charlesworth-scale-gliders/ also some of his panes from traplet http://www.trapletshop.com/gb/p/13603/hw-4-flamingo from Chris Williams (excelent + others) http://www.aerosente.com/ lots all very good http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~msd/ Mike smart designs And these from Tom bode some of his designs are available from Aerosente aswell Fantasic gulls http://www.woodwings.de/Woodwings/Home.html Edited By flight1 on 19/12/2013 19:04:10
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Just ware knee pads to stop them knocking and some Valium to calm the nerves and you will be fine. just let me know when so i can take some video/ pictures to post on here , so we can all see the fruits of your effort.
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solder gun
flight1 replied to Douglas Wheelhouse 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hi question is what do you want to solder 180w is huge and only for the largest of jobs and it will be hart to control the temperature of the job at hand and it will all get to hot too quickly. I have this from maplin and it does most jobs well http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50w-solder-station-n78ar. heres a basic guide for soldering it is easier to give a link but also there is a lot of guides out there http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/technical-library/soldering/basic-soldering-guide/ -
Looking good Mr P, it will certainly brighten up the Flying patch. And guess what I will be getting a air brush and compressor and small hplv gun for crimbo. got anything i can practice on? Edited By flight1 on 17/12/2013 14:31:34
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what dremel is best for our needs
flight1 replied to ben goodfellow 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Yoy dont have to have dremmel , I rate the Proxxon tools better like this is quite a usfull set http://www.brimarc.com/products/Proxxon-FBS240E-Multi-Tool,-Flexi-Shaft,-Stand-amp;-Vice---PACKAGE-DEAL-929157.htm -
A nice indoor model might be a goot choice or a 1/4 scale pilot for his latest creation? but giving a bujet will enable a more accurate choice?
