Keith Berriman

Here is a Depron Typhoon just trying to sort out various props to get to required wattage required

I have only ever seen an Irvine engine started that way and that was by a twist on the spinner We live and learn

Hello Mannyroad Is it me it looks like you are starting the engine from a backward stroke with the stick ????

There has to be a start point and only when built and flown and tweeked can you can start on trying different propsand watt meter checks to better the performance . I started on a 6 x4. Then changed to 7 x4 and it was a dream to fly and control

Try BRC Hobbies there is one there at 280 watts 2200 kv but thats on a 6x5.5   and 190 on a 6x4 they have a reasonable priced 40 amp  esc  Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 20/02/2017 20:11:23

Waiting with patciance for my next cup of tea and thought of Braddock. Do we have any answers to the tea pot saga?

Trying to simplify your appreciation let's try this The weight of the model is a start point with 100 watts per pound basic 150 watts per pound acrobatic 200 watts per pound going vertical or very acrobatic. Then the type and size of the model determines the prop required, larger props require lower kv motor smaller props require higher kv motor. Link this with watts required and look for a motor to fit the bill. This then gives you the watts as a guide line. Divide the watts by an average of 10 volts on a 3 S lipo battery to get the amps and the allow 30% extra to get to ESC required. Because the alpha jet is limited in prop area that's why you needa high revving motor and small prop. The lipo capacity is the determined by whatyou can get in the model and how long you want to fly. Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 19/02/2017 17:46:29

May be look at his link for an alternative kit -- built, flown, tested good links to supplier https://bmfa.org/class1/id/39195

Hello Simon. You will need a 200 watt 2200kv motor on a 30 amp ESC driving a 6x4 prop. A 2200 3 s lipo up front for a little weight to penetrate the wind and elevon control on the elevator's. It will need full throttle for take off and the ease back to 3/4 throttle to cruise around keep it high and only glide in to land

Type in your needs into google and look out for your results The battery above should be about 50 grams Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 16/02/2017 20:20:38

Paul you need to be looking at NiMh cells at 1.2 volts per cell so 4 wired in series May be the AAA cells or the AA Cells dependant on space available and Mahr rate required for duration Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 16/02/2017 19:54:55

Hi Braddock. Is the hole clear. Could it be blocked with glaze??

So where is Braddock,VC ?? Gone to by another teapot ???

Sounds like the lid has no vent hole maybe try without the lid and problem solved so then you may have to introduce some small packing piece under the lid to let the air in. Have a nice day

I have used Bangood with no problem on RC parts. Just check the stock level by this I mean the despatch date at the side of the item. Once went for a digital watch but found out the analogue hands did not move good job it was a cheepo

Steve. What is the clunk format? Straight brass one or the sintered bronze if sintered bronze could it be blocked?

Tom obviously you took of into wind and needed to gain the height if you can then do a large turn and fly back into wind at height this is the best time to trim out a model. Half throttle straight and level with fingers of the sticks if not, large turn again and into wind and trim out more

Hello David. Look up Model fixings. But check the bearing size first as there are various for the Irvine engines

I have had, and still have two Irvine engines and yes on the first start up take a little longer than you would like. Having tried various plugs the best one I have found for the Irvine engine is the Just Engine no R 4. I use a large D Cell Nicad and no problems with low tick over . Definately need a blocked open throttle and 6 turns backwards to prime the engine

Hi Peter. From my reading and experience in parallel charging it is well advised that batteries need to be of same capacity eg 2200 with 2200. It is also advising cells need to be of same remaining capacity if possible. Having tried parallel charging I found the flight times were worse than single cell charging I did try two different chargers as well.

Have you tried a new plug? , after a winter stand the plug could have got a slight coating on the element and all is okay on start up then after a while it looses its chemical action and no ignition

We will need more details of your equipment but a short answer to this is put a Y lead into channel 1 and then the servos into the extensions assuming you have the mechanical arms in the right set up you should be able to get them to work in the correct configuration

If you are looking to save more weight and have foam wings I have seen lightning cut outs in the wing area from the outer areas unable to find the pictures

Still following my original thread and have some options to try this weekend. Plug and props. I think my query was raised as I have only flown on Irvine and OS 40 & 46 range and the pick up for take off is what I was expecting Many thanks for all your responses

Hello ED the plug is a Just Engines No R4 its not new which maybe the reason. I have some new No8 which I will try over the weekend Thanks for the advice