IanR

Mine is now working, also. Thanks, everybody. Ian

Forgot - "not on my watch" used recently in BBC's 3 Musketeers programme and then on their Father Brown series. I mean really, from the writer, through the director to the actor, how did such an anachronism ever get broadcast. I think these americanisms are fine, in America. But why should our broadcasters and politicians use them? Can't they find the right words in english english. I think they think they're "with it" if they use these words and phrases. Pathetic. Ian

Its all down to the individual. Or is it up to? Going forward, we'll see. Or in future. Perhaps we'll step up to the plate and start playing baseball. The oldest ones that I can think of, that woman Laura Norder using a fine toothcomb, or is it a fine-tooth comb. I mean, when someone says "fine toothcomb" have they never stopped to consider what the hell a toothcomb actually is? Ian

Should Open TX Companion give voice prompts like the Taranis does? Mine doesn't but I would like it to. Ian

+1 for flight simulator. The Phoenix flight simulator has a landing practice feature where you can adjust the height above, and the distance from, the landing area. You can practice to your heart's content. This feature is also excellent for teaching yourself to fly towards yourself. A good flight simulator like Phoenix or Realflight - and a couple of others - is not particularly cheap but will surely pay for itself in the long run. They are also good fun. Ian

I think I am doing something similar when saving model setups to and from the TX and Companion except that, whilst creating a newly timed/dated filename, I don't bother to delete the old file - just in case. My PC has a shedload of memory so I don't mind keeping the old files. Ian

Thanks, Martyn. I'm not really concerned about producing an axial roll, as such. I'm just after a small step up from a full-on basic trainer - slightly less stability so that I can play with it a bit more. Engine Doc - can you remember what a "decent hinge" is? Ian

Yes, Denis, I see what you mean. Don't leave the bike clips at home but keep them in your flightbox just in case. The per plan position of the T180's aileron horn is very close inboard. I take it that that is why you added the weight at the outboard edge. I am also assuming that you positioned the balancing aileron horn as if it was the actual functioning horn, i.e. with the horn holes above the hinge line. As well as electrifying, I am intending to fit aileron servos in the wing (possibly flaps, also - just to have something else to play with) and maybe a couple of bays further outboard - more central to the aileron - so perhaps that close linkage will prevent flutter. We'll see. Many thanks all for helping me to make my mind up. Ian PS Have just re-read your first post, Denis, and see that you mounted the balancing horn centrally above the hinge line.   Cheers. Edited By IanR on 13/10/2016 20:22:24

Martin, do you think reducing the dihedral would help it to roll better? I take your point about what the models are intended for. Its just that I'm hoping to move a little (just a little, mind you) beyond the basic trainer stage and use them to become a bit more confident. I like your "...nice and relaxing to fly..." comment. That's where I'm hoping to get to. At the moment I'm still at the wearing bicycle clips stage. Ian

Thanks, lads. Reduced dihedral it is, then. I'll leave a bit of dihedral in if only because I don't like the look of a completely flat wing. Denis, you certainly have helped - and now I'm sorry to be a bind but could you explain a) the theory and b) how you did it. I can't quite grasp how/why you did what you did. I won't ask you to draw and download a picture but if you could point me at something on t'internet I'd be very grateful. Many thanks. Ian

I have a Prcedent Hi Boy kit and a Precedent T180 kit (don't ask) to build and am just thinking things through before I make a start. There are only a few photos or videos of the Hi Boy but quite a few more of the T180 on t'internet. I can't help noticing that, with the T180 especially, sometimes I can see the dihedral as designed but that I have also seen other photos and videos where the dihedral appears to be much less. I don't think its just the angle of the dangle in the photo/video - I'm fairly sure that I am seeing much less dihedral. My question is - do people sometimes reduce the dihedral in their builds? I ask because I think I am just past the basic trainer stage and would like models that I can throw around a bit without the stabilising influence of a relatively large dihedral fighting me all the time. Thanks. Ian.

Having got my Taranis to say "throttle active" and "throttle disabled" I then set up one of the knobs to act as a volume control. I suppose I should really begin each message with "This message is for Ian. Everyone else disregard..." Ian

Alison, send me a personal message with your email and postal addresses. Hopefully, I'll be popping down to Staples some time next week. Ian

Thanks, Percy. Yes, I'll watt meter it on 4 cell, first, but be prepared to go to 5 cell, which I would need to purchase, and prop down. Ian

Thanks for that info, pastor. I only skimmed through the posts and didn't notice you were an electric T180 flyer. I'll take your advice, I think, and go straight to 5S - sod the expense! Ian

Alison, if you get stuck, let me know. I have just purchased an un-used T180 kit which includes the plan for a built-up wing. However, the plan appears to be a bastard size (as they say in engineering circles - no swearing intended!) It is slightly narrower but much longer than A0 size so at least 2 x A0 copies will need to be made. I have phoned Staples and they charge £5 per A0 copy. A second problem is that I cannot find (on t'internet) where to purchase a single postal tube - they all seem to come in packs of 10 or more - so it might be necessary to fold the plan/s into an envelope. Additionally, I won't be able to get to Staples for a few days so, if you are in a hurry... Ian PS I am hoping to electrify it. Percy, what do you think - would an Eflite Power 46 motor on 4S do the job? Should be about 600-ish watts (according to David Ashby when fitting out a H9 Toledo Special)

Thanks, BEB. BEB, I read Dick's post and immediately began to download the zip file and copied the two wave files to my SD card. My Taranis is now saying "throttle active" and "throttle disabled" as required so I won't trouble you for the Crystal wav files but many many thanks all the same - and for the "verbose" info which I will look into, later. Thanks, Dick. You have saved me from pulling my hair out. Ian

I have set up a throttle active/disabled switch on my Taranis and would like to add the voice. Watching a Painless 360 video he simply adds it from his voice commands. The voice commands in my Taranis do not include these phrases. After much internetting I think I need to download the "Amber" voice pack and then copy the two wav files onto my SD card. However, all the links for Amber voice pack which I have been able to find point to an RCGroups thread and the link on this thread does not appear to work - I get sent to a keyboardmonkey.com web-site and asked if I want to purchase this domain name but no sign of the necessary sound zip files. Can anyone point me to a working link to download the Amber voice pack or, alternatively, could anyone send me the two wav files for throttle active and throttle disabled. Many thanks. Ian

I can't help thinking that both the construction of the engine box, and it's mounting to the firewall should include some form of mechanical retention i.e. slots with tabs and/or nuts and bolts with washers at both ends. I would be worried if the only thing preventing the engine from flying off was glue.

I have used Phoenix on a large TV screen but this relied on a conventional video connection between my laptop and TV - HDMI in my case. I don't know what slt is. Additionally, I would point out that my laptop is an ancient thing but still gives a good account of itself with Phoenix. My understanding is that Realflight requires a more powerful setup than Phoenix. Perhaps you need to check on this, also. Ian

Good news - looking forward to this one.

I'm not really concerned about the Horus - my Taranis will do me just fine. What really piqued my interest, though was "We will also be selling the new S6R receiver with Inbuilt 3-axis gyroscope and 3-axis accelerometer sensor to compliment the Horus, price around the £27 (£32 including VAT)" More expensive than the Orange equivalent but less than half the price of the Spektrum one. I have googled but can't find any information. For a start, can anyone confirm that this will work with the Taranis, as well as the Horus? Ian

No, don't perhaps make a vid - definitely make a vid! I am very interested in your posts and would very much like to see how you got on. Its good to see that we can get away with not using the dollartree stuff. Ian

Put some of the non-slip mat down flat on your worktop then place a battery on top. Now, if you apply just a small amount of downwards pressure you will find that the battery just will not slip from side to side. A clubmate uses this method of retention for 6S batteries and performs all kinds of wild gyrations with no problems. Providing a Velcro strap is applying sufficient downwards pressure I can't see the battery moving at all. BEB's earlier photos show 2 Velcro straps which is surely enough. Additionally, from BEB's description, it sounds as though he never got a chance to throw the model around sufficiently to move the battery. I think the problem lies elsewhere. BEB, thanks for another great build log and for having the guts to show us all the results of your unsuccessful maiden. I am reminded of Danny F's Spitfire. Hats off to you both. Ian Edited By IanR on 07/07/2016 15:35:48

Hello Steve. Your description of your problem sounds exactly like mine, except that I weigh a helluva lot, also. I initially used a plastic (resin?) garden chair, you know the ones - often white but some are green. This was fine as I could sit in the pits and easily pick it up to take to the flight line. The only problem was transporting it to the site because its awkward shape made it difficult to fit in my saloon car's boot. Now I use a shower stool with a plastic seat and chromed metal legs with wide plastic feet which do not sink into the ground. This is better because I can swivel a little if I get behind myself and it takes up far less room in the car, not having arms. Of the two, the stool is by far the best. Ian