Graham R

Thanks for the warning👍

Thank you all for your input so far. I will try following Andy48 instructions tomorrow. Graham

It was some time ago, I think that I updated both opentx and rf firmware. RF modes available are LR12, D8 and D16.

I am trying to get my Frsky Taranis setup back to a working system. I have tried looking through the threads but have got really confused. What I would like if possible is a list of instructions that I can follow. The main problem I have is being unable to bind receivers. I updated my taranis some time ago and then ran into problems, had to resort to another brand till I get this sorted. Taranis is an early one. Taranis firmware rel - 2.0.13 I have a variety of receivers D8R II, D8R, X8R, X4R, X6R, D6R II, V8R4 II (bound ok), X8R. None of the receivers have had updates applied. 2 of the X8R are dated 2015. I do have various update cables. Hope that somebody may be able to help. Thank you in anticipation. Graham

on a meagre got back around Posted by Mike Etheridge 1 on 17/07/2016 11:49:04: First complete a Veron Mini-Concord from E-bay and include the wings from my kit purchased from Heset Model Supplies bought when the shop closed in 1976. The wings were left by someone who broke into my garage and took the fuselage plus a number of other modelling items including the box from my DC Merlin powered Southern Junior Models 'Southern Dragon' another plane I have been thinking about building since I lost the original plane in 1962. Heset model Supplies - there's a name from the past. Bought my 1st R/c model kit from there around 1973 - a Mercuy Matador. Tried to fly in using a wee Magreggor single channel with a 3 function escapment . Push once for left, twice for right and if you were very quick 3 times for kick up elevator. 1st and only flight (if you could call it that) was over on Mitcham Common nr Croydon. Everybody had to stop flying as the set was I think Superhet? (Only one radio at a time). They didn't have to wait very long, about 20secs if I remember correctly. Those were the days.

Parrafin lights lighting the way during those London smogs. Red rover tickets, seeing my first jet airliner with all the prop jobs at Heathrow. Watching planes in the warmth of the lounge at Gatwick whilst having a drink.

The Goons, ether (diesel fuel), jetex, gob stoppers and black jacks.

Like you I fly mode 1. (I'm the only one in my club who does). I also had the problem of finding a quad. I have found one that is BNF. But it's quite a small indoor one. I have bought a cheapish mode 2 one to learn with and it's going ok. Good luck. Graham

To get the c of g correct, I use 4500 3s lipos.   Edited By Graham Russell on 11/12/2015 19:15:28

Is there a rule regarding prop size and aircraft size and can anybody explain how to calculate prop speed and the most efficient tip speed for a prop. Thanks Graham

Very much like your work Ray. Depron is soft and easily marks/dents. How do you prevent this and do you use a covering to smooth out the texture before painting. Graham

Jeff Once shaped the tape is removed

Hi Jeff I am building the wagtail and have almost completed the fuz. Forming the depron was the bit I most dreaded it sit is really quite easy. I found that you must tape up the outside face with parcel tape. To shape it just roll the depron over the top of a piece of tube with your hands. Take your time and it will curve.I found it easier to remove the curves of the formers and then build the fuz upside down top. That way you have a clear datum line.. Graham

Has anyone made provision for removing the motor if so how?

Posted by Graham Dorschell on 12/01/2015 02:15:07: Not sure that your colour scheme can be improved upon

Thanks for your help Pete. Just started cutting fuz parts.

Thanks for your help, now looking for a 350ish watt motor on 3s. I am interested in seeing your vid.

Pete, The reason I asked was that fitting a hi kv motor with a small prop tends to generate a high pitched scream which is not so good on a noise sensitive site. Graham

Are there any updates as to motor/battery/prop combinations?

Hi No i'm not from perma grit. concerning glueing abs to veneer I th ink I used epoxy with the abs roughened. With the tailpipe I seemed to remember tha we made ours from balsa with a removable end piece as the rx battery needed to be right at the back to balance it.

Hi, I used to help Phil at skyway models.I built 2 of the original prototypes back in the early 90's (I think that about the date). It with 5 others flew all around the shows during theat tine and even survived a fly away at the woodspring wings show. It was found by a farmer some 3 mile away completly undamage apart from some hinges that got pulled out. Mine was only retired last year and the other is still being flown at our club. From what I remember the canopy was indeed built in 2 pieces. The molded canopy finishing at the hoop. The front part of the canopy was a piece of thin acetate sheet. The guy who designed it was well into slope soaring and I believe it made a good slope soarer. It certainly was a good flyer (with a 40 up front) very smooth, flew on rails and with flaps down would fly very slowly. Graham Good luck with the build.

How about one for a smartphone maybe using handbase. Very useful when in shop/model show trying to remember what prop/battery size etc a model needs.