Bucksboy

Mine however, are a delight. I've read the link above and some of it makes sense. However, the electric worm driven retracts are the best available at the moment, thats why they are so popular. i remember all the hours I've spent fiddling with mechanical retracts/ air systems. I was going to use a seperate battery but after taking advice i use the receiver battery. I have got telemetry for the rx pack so i do keep an eye on it though. They will continue to be popular until a better system comes along.

I browse their site but get disappointed by out of stock items. It must be hard though, when they decide to re stock they have to wait for the boat from China. I've taken to only looking at their arrivals list, it saves the disappointment. Having said that, I was after their sport plane, the Shark. They e mailed me when it came in stock, which took around 3 weeks, I ordered it over the net on Tuesday night and it arrived by 2 pm Thursday. And they've sorted out more reasonable postage rates, just over £7.

Tom, Sorry, all lost in the distant mist of time. Apart from its undercarriage swinging the wrong way, it had a really good look of a Spitfire. Hence my wish to find another. I think its too old a model now to have a chance of finding another. Good luck with it. Bucks

Tom, I had one of these and it flew beautifully and I regret selling it. I agree that the underside blue covering was horrendous so I repainted it and flew it for a season or two. I then stripped off all the covering and covered it in Solartex and repainted it. I removed the wheels and dolly launched it. I've since tried to buy another one several times with a view to adding the correct orientation retracts and flaps but have been unsuccessful. I had an even bigger engine, a Thunder Tiger 91, it hauled it around the sky easily. I can't remember if I needed any lead to balance it. It was a really good plane, I bought it from Wings and Wheels from Ripmax 'cheapy' sale. I hope you enjoy flying it.

That video was from 2005 so I'm sure its all fixed now.

Simon, I will snip off the connectors that came on the original Hitec battery and fit them to my sons higher capacity battery to ensure it never happens again. I'm happy that I'll never do it myself and it would never have been a problem if his pack had lasted a few minutes more. Yes, we had backed up the models so thats something. Thanks for the link to those connecters by the way, I may invest £3 to see of they fit. Thanks again. Bucks

Well, I took it to my LMS and they phoned someone, Hitec repairs I presume. It costs £50 for the board and £20 to fit, £70 in total. Cheaper than a new set but steep nonetheless. On the plus side, it'll still be in warranty and I know that it will be trustworthy. Not something I could say if I repaired it myself. So, back in a week they promise. An expensive mistake to make. bucks

Hitec use a weird plug on the battery that I couldn't find to solder onto my new packs. I used a set of 6 Eneloop batteries to make a pack that had over double the capacity to the one supplied. I knew that it would stay in place for charging and wasn't a problem. My sons Hitec A9 pack went low so I said 'no problem, just take my pack out and shove it in yours, be careful about the the polarity though' I thought that warning was enough but no, he managed to reverse it! I surprised that there isn't a sacrificial thing that blows but they must rely on the mechanical fit of the plug. I can solder but I'll take it back to the shop to see what they say. I don't mind spending a few pounds, especially as the link above shows, it's likely to be one particular part. What I don't want is a bill approaching the cost of a new one. I'll keep you all informed. Bucks

Ive used my Hitec Aurora 9 for months now and have been very impressed with it. I made up a seperate power pack to use as the original one was a bit small, the only problem was that the pack could be fitted negative to positive. I couldn't find compatable plugs. I never worried as I never unplugged the pack. Until today, my son did. You guessed it, he plugged it in negative to positive, released the magic smoke and nothing. It wont work. i'll take it back to the shop and Perkins but is it repairable or have I got to face buying a new one? my fault, I know so its not warranty work, has anyone got any experience of similar problems?

I too have asked in the past for internal shots of reviewed planes. Its quite common to see 6-8 photos of the completed models, the same style as is printed on the box the model came in. I'd like a photo of the engine installation and the radio to see how others complete the task. I appreciate that its not that exciting but I'd prefer that to identical exterior shots. Just my thoughts.

Mike, I've got an Aurora and I read this thread as its the first negative thing I've ever heard about the set, I'm very pleased with it. Thats why I'm surprised that you have club mates with Hitec who advise against it. Everyone else that I've met with one have been over the moon with the balance of ability, cost and user friendllyness. I gave up on Futaba, which did perform really well, over its confused thinking and pricing towards FASST. Just my thoughts. Bucks

Well, I repaired it and flew it again very successfully. She really grooved around the sky and flew wonderfully. Until one day the plastic battery cover detached itself from under the front of the cowl and flapped around held only by a rubber band. As soon as I saw it I landed successfully. Not wanting a repeat, I doubled up the elastic band and shoved the cover firmly under the cowl. The next flight it did the same thing and the cover again came away from under the cowl. All except this time the elastic band was stronger and this time the band acted as a hinge. The cover hinged up and backwards and looked like a garage door in front of the cockpit. Alas, it wouldn't fly with this barn door and dropped out of the sky like a stone. It broke into two bits and ripped out the engine bulkhead. However, after encouragement from friends, an hour later and super glue, she was one again. I epoxied in some reinforcement and carbon here and there and she flew again. Just the same, a delight to fly. That is until my son was flying her. He's not too used to flaps and didn't keep enough power on the finals and she flicked in, this time she went into three bits. So now I've handed her over to Bill, who'll never see a plane burnt. I'm sure she'll fly again, there is no oil to stop the glue taking easily. He'll convert her to a dolly launch and save some weight. Its a shame, she flew really nicely. So, I had already bought the 72" Spitfire at Wings and Wheels, I'll crack on with that.

Neal, It doesn't help but no, I've never experienced that problem. However, your thread title suggested a different problem I occasionaly have. Very rarely, when I switch the set on, the light comes on but nothing appears on the screen. I switch off and back again and the problem never repeats itself. Weird but I put it down to the 'computer' stuff inside not starting up, like my PC from time to time. I am very pleased with the set though, despite the occasional glitch in the starting process. Good luck with finding an answer.

Ive just tried to order a 70 amp speed controller for a very reasonable price of £11 or so. The only postage options I can get are Parcel Force 24 and 48 hous at over £8 plus. When I'm in the web site it says that there should be an option for Royal Mail at £3.99 but it doesn't come up at the point of ordering. Is this a glitch or these the only options? I've looked arounf the site but there really isn't anything else I want/need to fill up the remainder of the postage weight. Then, there is all the Customs Declarations to fill in, do I need to?

I've recently bought access to the new digital issues to view from an i pad. Today the magazine wont move past page 89, it just shows a grey page. Also, when zooming in to read the pages I cant read the bottom of each page properly. When i drag the page down it springs back so i have to hold the page still. I realise that things glitch from time to time but first impressions are distinctly average. I bought the digital issue version as a trial but I hope it gets better than this.

Simon, I've never used the brown paper method but I've got a profile fighter which I intend to do in paper. I take it you used PVA watered down to stick it on? Which side is on the outside, matt or glossy? thanks, Bucks

Simon, its looking good, mine has flown once and it went really well. Work, high winds and rain have got in the way since. Keep going!

I spoke to Moor Models on Sunday, they too were victims. Someone slashed the tent and stole all their OS engines and high spec Spectrum receivers. The thieves must have visited the show and spotted where all the really valuable bits were in each tent and then returned at night. So, all their hard work, reduced prices etc were for nothing. I'm nothing to do with the shop so I've no idea what the Insurance Company will say, I can guess though.... Bucks

Which glue do you use? the build is very inspiring, thanks

My Thunder Tiger .91 has been first class, it runs beautifully. I hope to buy as 130 size 4 stroke this weekend at Wings n Wheels.

Are you anywhere near Watford?

Simon, I'm really interested in building the 69" BT Spitfire like yours, have you got any further? I've built his Bf 109 and it was a delight to build, I too used the E Flite electric retracts, they're so easy to use. I hope to put a Laser 100 in it too. I really like the early Spits.

John, What is the noise like with the standard, supplied silencer? The cheap petrol engines I've looked in the past require £60 plus to replace the useless baked bean tin exhaust they're supplied with. Is the Just Engines silencer any better? Our field needs quiet engines. Thanks Bucks

Have you looked at the slightly bigger BT 109? Its 72"wingspan and mine flew on a TT 91 four stroke. Another big advantage is that it takes the E Flite electric retracts which are so easy to use. Hopefully the smaller one will be cut to the same high standard so whichever you choose, I'm sure that as its BT , it will be designed really well.

Well, she flew! The wing was weighed and came in at 3 lbs dead, the fuselage with batteries was 6lb 8 oz so 9 1/2 lb in total. The Watt meter said there was 915 watts so just under the magical 100W per pound. There was a 15 x 8 prop at the front for the flight. The self castoring tail wheel was a pain and taxying trials were difficult with directional control being very hard. She would swing one way, then the other and the rudder not really doing much. Good old masking tape came to the rescue and the wheel was taped still. Then I lined her up and took off with plenty of power, she climbed away and I had to put in loads of down to stop her heading for the clouds, there was a bit of left too and a tiny bit of rudder, to stop her crabbing. Then I checked the stall which was very gentle, then a few more high circuits as I was still nervous and then it was time for landing. I never had time to check the flaps this time around. I had to go around after the first attempt and the batteries were starting to fade so I landed her, there was a small bit of ballooning and she dropped in from about 3', this ripped out one retract and slightly bent the other. So, a repair to the wing, sort out the tail wheel and then I've got a fantastic warbird that flies really well so I'm really pleased. I didn't manage any pictures at all I'm afraid, next time I hope.