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When I used to cut the spare (plastic) arms off of the servo, and even if I was modifying servo output discs for special applications, I used to use anything that came to hand, pliers, side cutters etc., but I found that these put stresses into the stub of the arm and hub. This has caused the splined hub to split, which is v.bad news. So I now always cut the spares off with a high speed Dremel abrasive disc (which melts the plastic and does not cause a stress fracture). If you have not got a mini drill, a couple of quick strokes with a fine hacksaw blade is probably better than chopping the arm off with pliers. Worth remembering.

Position of fueling valve should not make any difference, position of fuel tank is important. Try by-passing the fuelling valve (it sounds like it may be the problem). If the engine is new, the glowplug is OK and the fuel tank is not high or low, and all the fuel lines are not blocked and not leaking there really should be no reason why the engine is not 100% let me know how you get on.Richard

Hello Ben, sounds like a major air leak. Are there bubbles in the fuel pipes (from the tank to the needle valve and between the needle valve and the carb? Try replacing all fuel lines, check the carb. and engine backplate for leaks. If you run it without the pressure line it will be leaner, but if the engine cannot be tuned with the main mixture control set at around 2-3 turns out (I have read the instructions),no matter what silencer is fitted, then there must be another problem. Try making a test stand & try it on that with new fuel pipes (and the OS silencer if available)..

Try running it on the ground without the pressure line attached, if the fuel tank is in the correct position and pipes are clear, at least you have a starting point. How much smoke is being emitted?

My three, Stuka, Avro 504, Hurricane. Single engine classics.....

Try a shop that sells Model Railway supplies. The scenic builders use a grey/green board which I think is called Sundeala, ideal to take pins, but it does need glueing/fixing to a strong straight backing.

A new Thunder Tiger 54, started making a scraping noise after the first few minutes running. Found that the camshaft had been assembled dry and the lobes were worn, later it dropped a valve due to a valve clip breaking,it was always difficult to start and tune and frequently threw props.. Then to a new ASP 80,the first one was so badly made it had no seal at all between the head and barrel,its replacement had rapid excessive wear to the valve gear.But it did run quite well. After about 80 flights the crankshaft broke just behind the helical gear. New Thunder Tiger 91, found that camshaft had been assembled dry, again, so lubricated it before use. (No I didn't mis-time the camshaft on either engine). Never could get it to run. properly. I currently use Enya, O.S.(2) and Saito 4 strokes and have never had a moments problem with these in hundreds of flights (since 1987). (No doubt there will be contradictions), but I will not touch these clone motors. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Hello Clarky, looking at the clubs list on the BMFA, there seem to be no shortage of clubs in your area. If you really want to find out more about flying, I suggest that you find a club that suits you. Some clubs can have a negative attitude to beginners (don't ask me why) but most are friendly and there are always some members who want to help. It will also help to ask questions of experienced flyers before buying equipment by mail order, as many of as are doing.I assume that you are hand launching your models at the moment, learning to take off and land in a predictable manner and place is very important and really needs to be taught...... As far as the radio goes, I do not want to complicate things by pointing you towards the new 2.4 ghz systems, where there are benefits such as no crystals required, so I would say, go for the 6EXAP (I have one) and buy Futaba receiver(s)and crystals to go with it (them). I have also found that HiTec servos are very good and have no compatability problems with Futaba.

Hello Clarky, sounds like you are doing well, I'm sure that someone with greater electric flight experience will advise you on what to buy, but it would also help to know what your budget is. Also, if you haven't yet, it is essential that you get insurance, best contact the BMFA (see their website).As far as radio equipment goes, go for Futaba or JR and you won't go far wrong, again it depends on budget, but a good basic 6 channel computer set is a good investment. I think that you really need to find a friendly experienced flyer near you. (Where is your nearest model shop?)

I had a mid-air a few years ago at a club site, I was flying a motor glider with a 0.9 Enya in the nose, along the line of the runway. A Flair Hooligan with a large 4 stroke hit it amidship, shredded the wing & smashed the fuselage, the smaller engine was seen descending in an wide arc into the shrubbery about 40 yards away. I went back every morning for a week before I found the engine which lived to fly again. BUT the most comprehensive demolition of a plane I have seen (not mid air) was a brand new Aviomodelli Calypso,(Plastic fus.) with a new O.S. 61 FX, brand new receiver and servos. Took off, climbed, turned a 270 degree circuit, dived into the (v. hard rocky) ground with throttle wide open. Trashed the crankcase,tore the carb out. took a large lump out of the BACK of the cylinder head.Fuselage in about 100 pieces, wings into about forty crumpled fragments, nicad split,servos damaged I think the owner saved 2 servos. Cause - not possible to tell because of the damage.

I have been paying 'Road Tax'for more than 45 years so I and my father paid for the pathetic, badly maintained roads in this country. Public transport where I live is virtually non-existent.Schools, health care, post offices have been centralised so that for most people a car is essential. Your taxes are being wasted on all sorts of bureaucracy and committees, not the roads. I can only get to the shops by car (5 miles, 10 for a supermarket.). The motorist (you) is being screwed by the Government,(you pay tax on the manufacture, purchase, maintenance and running of your car). so do not let them get away with even more taxes.(Yes I have signed). In contrast Airlines pay no tax on their fuel.

Don't eat the yellow snow!

SMC have a 12 volt mini iron,on their site look under tools. (Expensive at £19.99).

Martin Baker M.B.5. Relatively simple construction, nice straight edges, good proportions,easy colour scheme, should fly well looks a bit like the Spitfire/Mustang and I know it's one of the Editor's favourites! AND/OR Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden 'Jack' Which I would build.