Sparks
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Everything posted by Sparks
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Ken, I think you mean this Sparks - suppressed department!!
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How many flyable models do you have?
Sparks replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in Model Flying Polls
Been clearing out the Hangar, so down to 6 Models now (all electric):- Wot 4 1/2 size Astro Hog Cleveland Astro Viking Tucano (Nigel H) Vic Smeed Popsie Spyro III Gyro + On the building board - Firefly Gyro - Crossfire -
I had over 200 flights out of my Foame Wot 4 before I passed it on to another club member. It flew beautifully with Tipple 2300maH and Turnigy 2200mAh LiPos and 15grm of lead in the tail to reduce elevator input when inverted. I found that a 12x6 prop suited my flying style best, not so fast as the 11x8, but better acceleration . No real issues, apart from the battery hatch coming unlatched in flight. I did try a Gens Ace 2600mAh, but the extra weight was noticeable and deterioated performance in my opinion. Also, it didn't seem to increase flight times over the 2200/2300mAh LiPos. Now waiting patiently for the Foame Acro Wot to hit these shores. .
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Yes, that yellow stuff is a devil to get out of clothing. Our club bought some paper overalls from the pound shop for use when retrieving models out of the rape. White overalls are quite usefull when locating pilots who get lost in the undergrowth as well!
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Brushless motors - reliability survey
Sparks replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in Motor Discussion
In the past I had a preference for Turnigy Motors as they offered good performance for the price. However, the last three I bought have all sounded like a bag of nails from new, replacing the bearings cured the problem but negated the initial price saving. Maybe Turnigy have changed the bearings they use now. I've been very happy with E-Flite motors (some bought s/h off fleebay) - not cheap, but they do run very smoothly and rugged enough to survive my less than perfect landings. -
Hi, has anyone seen this site? Performance Calculations for Gyros Meant for full size gyros, so may not translate to models, but does provide some data on blade aerofoil sections. Cheers, Richard
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Sparks - electronics engineer trying (sometimes failing) to keep the light and smoke from escaping from my various projects.
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Bill, have you measured what current/watts the motor was actually taking? A wattmeter is a very worthwhile investment if you are flying electric models. It takes the quesswork out of setting up motor/prop combinations and keeps the smoke in ESC's! Cheers, Richard
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Ja, bitte!
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Area 51 - did I read that correctly? a tricycle u/c on an Astro Hog - sacrilege!! You'll be telling me next that it had strip ailerons and a solid tailplane! Cheers, Sparks (confirmed Hogaholic)
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Perhaps there should be a dedicated 'sty' at Greenacres for all the Hogs Sparks
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Thanks Malcolm, I hadn't spotted that post, I think I know how the Cranefly should be trimmed now, but why is it opposite the the Spyro III?
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Hi, I have been following this thread and have a question about 'roll' trim settings, which i hope someone can answer. For the Cranefly, the roll trim is stated as 2 degrees to the right looking from FRONT (I presume that means right side blades down - I'm new to gyrocopters!). On another thread on RC Groups for the Spyro III (Spyro III - post #136) the roll trim is stated as 2 degrees to the right looking from BEHIND Why the difference? Is because the Cranefly is a has a tractor prop and the Spyro is a pusher or is there another reason for the roll trim being opposite between the two models (the blade rotation is anti-clockwise for both). The Cranefly will be my first Gyrocopter, so it is all new to me at the moment and I am on a steep learning curve! Sparks
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Test with AOL's browser (What's all that pseudo Latin about wnen inserting image?) Sparks
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Hi Seamus, Try CPC see - Tinned Cu - or their parent company, Farnell. Sparks
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Take a look at Dave's EEV Blog about soldering irons/tools for some wise words about soldering irons. For those interested in the 'E' part of RCME, his other blogs may be of interest. Sparks
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Had to smile about the Charge Markers ad on page nine, only £3.99 for four! I use the red elastic bands that postie leaves on my drive for free and wrap them around a discharged LiPo to show it needs charging. So, no, I have never wondered how 'I ever lived without them'. (Grumpy Sparks)
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Bending 8swg Piano Wire
Sparks replied to Martyn K's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hi Martyn, This is what I did for my 1/2 size A Hog. I glued a couple of ply riblets to the balsa ribs from the l.e. and main spars and a ply sheer plate at the front of the main spars. Then epoxied two hardwood blocks to the riblets and sheer plate. The blocks were slotted to accept the u/c wire and a vertical hole drilled in the inner block to accept the 'vertical' leg of the u/c. Then used a couple of saddle clamps to retain the u/c. I think you will get the drift from the picture below. The blocks are flush with the top of underside sheeting. Also see below for other torsion bar ideas from Gordon Whitehead's Scale Aircraft book ( a must for all builders) -
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Bending 8swg Piano Wire
Sparks replied to Martyn K's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hi Martyn, I have found that the usual 2/3 turn 'spring' loops (as used on nose u/c's) don't have much flexibility at all. I think you will find that the original A Hog torsion bar system will give you all the flexibility you need. Re right angles, you just need a big hammer and a vice securely attached to terra-firma! Richard Edited By Sparks on 23/01/2012 22:13:38 -
Hi Martyn, No, the ailerons go both up and down. They are top-hinged and the leading edge of the ailerons are raked back towards the underside to allow down movement - perhaps not so clear from my pictures. I have put in some mechanical differential by offsetting the servo horn to provide more up than down. About 10mm UP and 6mm DOWN on the Hoglet (like that name). For reference, the recommended throws for the original full-size A Hog are: Ailerons 5/8" UP and 3/8" DOWN ('Barn door' type) Elevator 3/4" UP and 3/4" DOWN Rudder 1" RIGHT and 1" LEFT Regards, Richard Edited By Sparks on 01/01/2012 18:58:42 Edited By Sparks on 01/01/2012 19:02:36
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Hi Martyn, Happy New Year. As you have started on the main-wing thought you might be interested in the enclosed aileron linkage I used on my Hoglet - see pictures below. The barn door ailerons are sufficiently deep for the linkage and horn to be completely buried in the wing, so no dangly bits. I made the horn (which extends to the trailing edge for support) from 1.5mm fibreglass sheet. Richard Underside View Top View
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