Redex

But just think of all that landing and take-off practice - ending up a real expert...

After a lot of start/stop building, the Acrowot kit is finally finished. I eventually managed to angle the wooden box motor mount, and with the cowl on does not look to bad. This time I used Hobbyking covering, but it seems to require a high temperature to stick, much more than the Solarfilm that I am used to, my iron being switched to max temp, although it has covered the Acrowot OK. For those interested, the power train is a 4Max PO-5055-595, Energ Pro 70 SBEC ESC and 5S4000 30C Turnigy LiPo, APCe 14* 7 prop and with an AUW of 2858gms. Not maidened the Acrowot yet, yet but my wattmeter shows 1090 watts and 59 amps at max. Next up is probably the Airsail RCAF Chipmunk kit looking at me every time I enter my garage - which will require a step up in my building skills, while the instructions seem a little vague.

I'm just finishing an Acrowot balsa kit electric conversion - the instructions say 2 deg right thrust no down thrust.

There is lots of useful info in these Forums for the E-pioneer, and I think it has been the subject of at least one or more articles in RCM&E. Still have mine which helped me learn to fly.

Thanks for the tips and references, some useful info to explore.

Hi All, I know this is an old thread but I am building an Acrowot for electric power at the moment and would like some advice as to the motor mounting. In the instructions it mentions to build in 2deg right thrust by offsetting, from center, the motor mount then angling the motor back toward the center line. If I do this then the spinner backplate is at an angle to the straight mounted cowl and looks, well very odd. So is the 2deg really necessary or is there some other trick to make the cowl and prop/spinner look 'straight' Just wondered what other elec builders did, many thanks for any help.

These days some kits cater for both I.C and electric flyers - a good example being the CF Wot 4 design which details a suitable electric conversion. Will the Hammerhead kit include any such electric conversion details - perhaps also aimed at the newbie looking to build and fly their first low wing model.

Hi steve 1, very nice model - could you give a few more details please e.g. was it an ARTF/Kit/Plan and the power train used. Many Thanks

Thanks I'll check out the specs - but it is certainly a lot lighter.

Thanks Richard & Andy48, It looks like, from the LiPo pic, that the 4S3000 is about 46mm wide using the HK web site to get LiPo dimensions so a good reference there. I also have an undercarriage from a recently departed kit built Wot4 e-convesion which may now come in handy and a spare BL2832 looking for a home.

Hi All, I know that this is an old thread and slightly off topic, but has anyone built an electric Magician yet, as I would quite like to have a go at an e version. Also could someone with a Magician measure the width of the fuselage, just in front of the undercarriage, as it would help me to determine a suitable width for a LiPo. Many thanks

Also just have a look at the Seagull E-Pioneer - lots of really useful info on this forum and good in the wind too, but will take you well beyond the 'A' cert.

For me as a leccy flyer part, of the whole model flying fun is working out the drivetrain, as well as building the actual model itself, then comparing the calculated to the actual flying. results. Also helps me to keep the little grey cells working !!. I currently fly a Wot 4 MKIII leccy conversion ( conversion as per CF web site) and the drivetrain is a KMS 4120/05 motor, HK 70A SBEC, 13*8 APCE and 4S 4000 Zippy Compact 60C - really good fun to fly. In the forum though there is lots of info on leccy Wot 4's just do a search for Wot 4.

Hi Howard - lots of info and drive train examples within the forum for an electric FunFly, just do a search on FunFly Motor.

Many thanks for the info Simon & Andy48.

Hi All, Need a bit of help sorting out my electric FunFly after a rebuild - does anybody have dimensions as to where the CofG should be. I no longer have my plan or building instructions.

Just as a reminder - within the forum there are some other build blogs for SLEC FunFly's, including leccy info for those interested.

I too have had the broken winding problem on my Dremel 3000 - repaired similar to Barryorbk's explanation above and has been ok for some months now.

Well... 1, Upgrade to a sprung u/c for my Dynam ME262, to help with my 'arrivals'. 2, Select another model to build and get cracking - shame about the Maddog Hammerhead kit not available, as I quite like it. 4, Fly more, try to improve on the aerobatics and just have fun. 3, Oh and continue to try and get my classic motorcycle back from a South London so called restorer, who has since closed his workshop and ceased trading.

Hi RC Plane Flyer My mistake - thanks for the correction, getting my Whizza and Fizza confused..

Hi brfc7, I think one of the options for the Fizza was to build on an undercarriage and some small wheels - are you adding wheels or keeping as is. Many Thanks

And so its taken a bit of time and I have had some interruptions, but I have finally finished the Wot 4 MKIII e-conversion, although I have not flown it yet - soon I hope. For anyone interested the power train at the moment is a KMS 4210/05 motor, HK 70A SBEC, 13*8 APCE and 4S 4000 Zippy Compact 60C (also used in an EDF model), but it will be upgraded to 5S with a smaller prop. The total weight including LiPo is 5.7 lbs - so a bit of a porker !! My wattmeter at full throttle shows 64.6A and 996.2 Watts, just over the motor spec but it seems OK with little heat or smoke generated and it should be a lot less in flight.

Hi Dave, What I have done is to install the kit electric mounting box as per the instructions, then glue onto the front of the mounting box, using epoxy, a 6mm ply plate about 2 ins square. Onto this plate I have mounted the motor using normal screws/washers/lockunts. This I have found also seems to give the correct distance for the cowl and my spinner. Also I have monuted the 6mm ply plate in a diamond shape on the front of the mounting box so that if I want to add any side or down thrust then only one washer is required under the appropiate screw. If the 6mm ply plate is mounted square on to the mounting box, the maybe 2 washers will be required a bit more fiddely !! I used the Funfly at the weekend and it handles the wind very well - hope this helps.

Hi Dave, Have a look at my previous post in this thread, it lists my drive train including the motor.

Hi Dave, I currently fly an electric Funfly and use standard Fut. 3003's all round.