jeff2wings

Just re -tension the wires to hold it straight, you know, like they would have done on the full size a/c ? And if the lower wing is flat and the upper has a twist then you need to adjust the strut length

World Models Blue Max

So I'm not the only one here that's read the RM Propo book lol ! 😆😆

Yes,I know, the photos of both servos shows the drive is off one side so the flap bellcranks need to be the same way

Sorry kc should had specified flaps ,ailerons are always handed regardless of rotary or linear output

If you realy want a Merco Alec I have about 30 of the things most of which have been rebuilt think I can spare one or two lol😄

If using a linear servo then they should be the same way or if using one side of a rotary servo arm

Well done that man using two servos and four bellcranks 😮!

Nice one Alec,will be following this with interest, just had a quick look on outerzone at the RM plans and some great models there from back in the day but no big wig,l think I have the mag for it somewhere if I do I'll scan it and post it here

Don't get cellulose near foam it'll melt,just use thinned down PVA to attach the tissue, btw what size is the wire?

I think something like this would be better suited to a model of this size rather than a bit of piano wire, if these are any good to you p.m me

That's the major wing repairs sorted out, just the covering and attaching the ailerons but before I do that there's the issue of the discoloration of the wood to deal with. The natural finish polytex will expose the difference in colour quite starkly, looking around the workshop I found this In the previous picture of the wing tip repair I have applied a coat of the paint and sanded it lightly and I think it gives the appearance of being from one piece of fresh wood? Well it does to my eyes lol ! this is perhaps a better illustration Now back too fitting out the fuselage U/C on,simples! Servos fitted in the same position as it was received in,however with the engine it was nose heavy? The joggle, cheap and effective. Works this end as well So far it's cost £20 for the airframe ,a small amount of wood, paint/fuel proofer and covering that I had to hand

So now I need to make good the area formally occupied by the torque rods, I rebated the damaged area and added new wood Once the had set and sanded flush it seemed a good opportunity for a dual servo setup, after a bit of a rummage under the bench I found a couple of Hitec slim wing servos Of course having removed the wood that was covering the rods left a gap and both wingtips now repaired

So the wing,at first look it appeared to be OK apart from some lose covering from having been patched up ,however apparently it's had a major prang and then left in a (very) damp shed resulting in discoloration of the wood and rusting of metal fittings I.e. anchor nuts and those torque rods A bit grotty! and that's why the ailerons where abit on the stiff side both wingtips had repair work done, note lead !

In the last two pictures you can see I've removed the decking behind the wing and cut away the top part of the former, you can see the weak spot where the rear frame joins the sheet front end. here I've added a 1/4 doubler across the joint also you can see the noch for the aileron torque rods,more on that later Front of fuselage covered tank hatch made rear part painted and tail surfaces recovered with some old Powermax polyetex (think that's what it was called)

Having finished the Flair D7&Legonaire and with no prospect of flying them (or anything else for that matter) I thought I have a go at this one, brought along with a super sixty off 'that' site more for it's wheels than anything else, rather than with a view too getting it airworthy. So the World Models Blue Max is pioneer styled model based (if not directly copied) on the American RCM plan of Miss Scarlet that's on outerzone. I'm sure this won't take to much work. Probably. So off we go,I did start this in April (no,not the 1st) as it arrived this is where I find a various of holes and a oil soaked front end Some of thats from the wings! time to cut and shut inner lightply doubler ready for new foam tank platform with space for battery more later

A very neat job there Matt ,brazing ally is not the easiest of things to do particularly when joining thick/thin materials, I will stick to TIG welding my silencers! I think my approach would be take rpm db readings with the std setup and then experiment with different baffling/outlets maybe starting with blocking one outlet, one thing I do know from past experience back in the '70's when the club I was in then and looked into this issue ,there's no substitute for volume.

Flair legionnaire

My powerhouse done in the same, works well easier than nylon and takes less dope to fill the weave

Think I have the plan for this somewhere, a freebee from RCM&E?? Another one for my 'too build' list lol !

not realy,it's a Dobro snap link not some cheap chinese tat and if the aerodynamic forces are that high as to it open,then it probably means the wings have come off at that point,so I don't think any amount of control waggling will remedy the situation.And I don't think a bit of elasticated tube is going to help matters any! lol 🤣

Engine,fuel tank andnow in then just the wheels,windscreen,pilot and set up left !👍 had to add support here

LO! That's both of us then,also known as captive nuts nuts or blind nuts

Surprised no one suggested T-nuts ? Looks like there is sufficient access to position them

HA! amateur LOL🙂 this one was built by a club mate back in the early '90's and was the 'gifted' to me 🤨 ten years later................... almost finished !!