YakMad

Try this site, very useful info for Saito engines, he suggests 9x7 or 10x6 for the 30. **LINK**

Jon, Cringeworthy is a very apt description of the show, it was like watching a train wreck even the audience seemed to give up toward the end, I struggled thru in the hope that it would get better but it got worse, not one new idea, the disco lights behind the doors were done in the 70's, they looked cheap then, looking at them in HD did nothing to improve the effect. Edited By YakMad on 31/05/2016 15:13:09

I am now using Bob Smith Industries Foam Cure for all larger repairs to my foam models, gap filing and slightly flexible, gave up on CA as I found it is too brittle for repairs to EPO foam. **LINK**

Owdlad, I have had the complete opposite result since switching from Model Technics to Optfuel, went from inconsistent running, dead sticks, bearing failures to none of the above and I am not a new kid on the block either, the worlds a funny old place is it not.

I switched to Optifuel 3 Years years ago after having used Model Technic 10% Duraglo and Formula Irvine for many years, I would not change back, my extensive range of four-stroke and two-stroke engines have never run better, I use their 12% mix in most engines and 20% in my smaller Saito four-strokes.

I run two OS 120 AX's, one is in an old Graupner Yak with the straight extension on, the exhaust protrudes half way out of the cowl and the other is in a Hanger 9 Talyorcraft with the exhaust mounted side on, both have been running for years, the Yak has suffered undercart failure on landing with no damage to the exhaust. Both engines are very powerful and spend most of their time at half throttle as a result.

Seagull have in the the past given what appears to be the incorrect CG but forgot to state that this was measured at the wing tip rather then the root which would make more sense, I had this problem with their Yak, the CG was correct when I measured back from the wing tip, I wonder is this the case here.

I bought some small Hyperion 2s lipos last year and I was surprised they had no balance lead, they have performed ok, I won't be buying anymore though as I would prefer to have a balance lead.

I think you will struggle to get a 30cc model into a CMAX as it doesn't have the length unless you go Grand CMAX size, the rear seats inculding the seat base fold forward and hook onto the back of the front seats and you loose that space/length although my Dad who is now 84 and still flies every weekend loves the car as it very easy for him to get in and out of. His larger model (a 120 size Spitfire) has to go in at a diagonal angle with the tail resting on the folded seats. I drive the current Focus estate 1.6 diesel, it has everything you listed and a flat load bay with the rear seats down and its longer about 6 feet from front seats to tailgate then the CMAX, not Mondeo size but not far off, I can get two 30 cc models in sitting on their wheels, I believe its available with the same 2.0 L diesel Pwershift engine.

Sounds like it is running hot, maybe drawing air, 3 and a quarter turns out seems alot, I have a Saito 91 in a Hanger 9 ultra stick mounted side ways and the needle is set to 2 and half turns out, have you tried running it on the ground with the tank half full as I have had problems with the pipes in the tank spliting which caused a lean run when the fuel level dropped.

Check valve? not unless it had something to do with Saito's own fuel pump system, not needed, there should only be a breather nipple on the bottom of the crankcase between the front and main bearings.

I am in work so can't check but I don't seem to remember a gasket on the plastic back plate.

If the engine had previously been run (very) hot, the plastic can distort, the alloy back plate would be the cure, worth having a look at the bearings while you have the cover off, probably worth buying the gasket kit as well as Saito do recommend changing gaskets when you have done any work on the engine although to be honest I have not found the need unless any gaskets are damaged.

Percy, Sounds like he still has a lot of differential aileron, I have just looked at the manual on-line and the aileron throws are 13mm up and 12 mm down that's very little differential, I would suggest flying it with the same up and down throws, 1 mm difference would have very little effect in a turn, more then likely there to smooth out the roll.

Check for a sticky valve, if the engine was run on castor oil its possible to have coated the exhaust valve stem, just take off the rocker cover and gently push the valve down by hand it should feel smooth. I had this happen to me on a few engines and the engines were down on power, its an easy fix just remove the valve and lightly polsih the valve stem with fine wet and dry.

Put a length of fuel tubing on the nipple on the carb and with the throttle set to idle, screw the idle needle all the way in, blow into the tubing and screw the idle screw out until you can hear air coming out, this will give you a good starting point for the idle mixture setting.

Just checked Modellbau Lindinger site, its expensive, 179.99 euro for just the model or 379.99 euro for the Ready to Run version, considering I got the Multiplex Extra complete (Ready to Run) for 189 Euro from Lindinger.

Simon, There is no way to know when the HK UK warehouse will have stock, it could be tomorrow or a month although the UK and EU warehouses do seem to be re-stocking items like batteries fairly quickly just depends I suppose when the next container is due to arrive. I wonder how much the shipping costs for lipos from the EU and UK warehouses are as they both have to use a courier service to ship them.

Simon, The HK EU warehouse have the 1300mah 3s Zippy Compact batteries in stock, **LINK**

I only use Zippy and Zippy Compact 35c after having the same problem of puffed cells with the Turnigy Nano Tech range, the Zippy Compact's have proved to be a very capable cell even in my power hungry EDF's.

I used to have 4 model shops within 10 miles of me, the best was 10 miles each way but closed several years ago, the worst I could walk to but don't as he never has what you want and over charges for everything, the next one is about 5 miles away were I used to buy a few kits and all my glow fuel from until I found out he was mixing his own and re-filling empty cans returned by other modellers, he actually thought he was doing us a service as he condsidered he knew how to mix fuel better then the recognised fuel suppliers (he didn't). The last model shop was opened in an industrial unit about 7 miles away a few years ago, he has a well stocked shop and prices are keen but he suddenly decided that he would only trade online from the start of last December??? he now charges shipping on everything, I will not deal with him anymore as I can source everything at lower shipping costs elsewhere, I used to enjoy wandering around his shop and anytime I was there the shop always had a few people in it and weekends were very busy, I just think he didn't want to deal directly with customers as he always thought the customer was wrong and getting problems resolved could take a while. I am 100% online shopping now, sometimes the local model shop can be its own worst enemy.

There is a big difference in power between a correctly tuned YS running on the recommened fuel and a 120, I would suggest you bench run the YS before you decide to fit it in the model as they can be difficult to tune and it will give you some idea of the power from the engine, as far as I can remember I think the YS can turn up to a 17x8 or 17x10 prop, a 120 will only turn about a 15x6 to 15x8.

When these came out first 4 of us in the club had them (I had the FW-190) they all flew fairly well including the P-51 which was faster then the FW-190, they all met their end fairly quickly as we could not resit a bit of dogfighting with them. The only other point I can add to the list Chris produced is to check that the propeller is not on backwards as it's a fairly low flat pitch prop which could easily have been installed backwards.

We had a member who spent several years flying trainers where the wing is retained with rubber bands, he decided it was time in had a more advanced model and built himself a Wot4. I was asked to test fly it, everytning looked ok although I considered that all the control surfaces had too little throw but he said he wanted it to be docile. I test flew it and it flew alright although it had too liitle throw so I landed and convinced him to increase the throws which meant he had to remove the wing. Our patch is about 10 minutes walk from the car park so I didn't see him put the model together, I was stunned when I saw that the blind nuts for the wing bolts had been pressed down into the top surface of the wing plate rather then up through the underside of the plate, to this day I don't know how they did not pull out on the test flight..

I have had pieces of film pull off in flight nothing as dramatic as yours, its makes a racket flapping in flight, be thankful its a fully sheeted wing and no loss of lift as a result. I don't think you could have foreseen this unless you are going to start pulling at every joint on the film before flight.