YakMad

I used to have a Dave Brown Six Shooter, one of my flying buddies gave it to me as he could not get on with it. Its really designed for a metal can as it needs a solid surface to enable you to use it, I have to say I came to hate it, if the weather was cold it would not pump at all as the tubing just seemed to be too stiff and even on warmer days it did not work very well, I noticed they are now suppling silicone tubing, I don't know if this would improve it but it would not encourage me to buy another.

It may also be worth your while replacing the main and idle needle 'O' rings as the ones supplied by ASP tend to wear quickly if you have been making alot of adjustments and will cause unreliable running, I also put a piece of fuel tubing on the main needle which does improve the seal.

Sorry should have added the low end needle on all Saito engine is set very rich from the factory to ensure you don't get a lean run while running the engine in, it will need adjustment as Ken has stated above.

13x7 is too small for the 82, best prop is APC 14x6, the Saito 82 is difficult to tune correctly, I find that the low end needs to be slighty rich to get it to throttle correctly, I tried mine on various props it would run ok on a 13x8 but the 14x6 transformed the engine, it really needs 20% fuel to perform at its best, I know this could open up the "my engine does not need nitro" debate but all four-strokes love nitro the 82 just pefers a little bit more. The idle needle on a Saito engine affects about 80% of the throttle range, if you don't believe me take out the main needle and watch the engine continue to run without it, so long as the throttle is not opened fully.

Use a sintered clunk in the tank, no need for a filter then, OS and Dubro make them although I have only used the OS version.

ASP parts are fairly cheap, a new head would probably be cheaper than getting it repaired.

I had 6 of those so called 25c lipos from Overlander, I think they forgot the decimal point!! should have read 2.5c, none lasted more than 10 flights although I did get a laugh when one swelled so badly in my old Funjet (which only pulls about 14 amps max) that the battery forced the canopy off in flight. I have not bought anything from them since.

Tony, It normally takes 3 days from the UK for me, 1 day to pick and pack the items and 2 days via ParcelForce/GLS, in Europe I have only ordered off the Dutch site, it normally takes 1 to 2 days to pick and pack and two days via GLS. Just for info the Dutch site shipping charges are much lower than the UK but the range of stock is poor although getting better. The German site's cost for goods and shipping are nearly always much more expensive than Hobbyking UK or Holland hence the reason I don't purchase from there.

He does'nt need a servo reverse lead if the Master and Slave (tail wheel servo) are plugged into seperate channels. Make sure you only have this MIX set-up on one PMIX, if you have been playing around trying to get it to work and have set-up another mix the same you can get very strange results, inhibt all other mixes until you have sorted this, try to use channel 7 as the slave as this is not predefined by the software in the TC7. Pat is correct, you should set the mix percent to the slave channel in the negative to reverse the channel.

Rusty, Just a thought did you remove the carb at any stage, maybe to turn it around to suit this installation, as I managed to crimped the 'O' ring inside the manifold on one of my ASP's when I was swapping the carb around and it took an age to sort out, a new 'O' and the engine was back running as normal.

I have a soft spot for P-51's and just happen to have a Saito 125 looking for a home, I would be interested to see how you get on.

@Cookson, A big problem with ARTF's is the poor quality and soft nylon engine mounts supplied. Engines run best when mounted to a solid structure, this can be the reason why an engine which runs great on the bench runs poorly in a model, four-strokes are more affected by this than two-strokes.

Clive is right, I do remember stripping a gear on the rudder from hanger rash so metal gear could be a wise investment on the rudder and elevator

Rusty, It's sounds the tank may be be too high, I have found that on some inverted for-strokes that the tank needs to be much lower than the carb more like at the the position were the inlet manifold enters the head. SC, ASP and Magnum's all suffer from poor quality 'O' rings on the main and idle needle and don't last too long if the needle's are abjusted alot, push a small piece on to the threaded part of the main needle for a start and re-install, the idle needle may need a new 'O' although I have used silcone sealant to cover the outside of the idle needle as a temporary measure to eliminate a potental air leak during testing. An easy solution to identify if the tank height is the problem is to get a small tank hang it on the side of the model (rubber band or tape it in place) at a lower height than the carb, plumb this tank to the engine and re-run it, you can then re-positon it to see up or down to see if the idle is effected.

I would agree with Allan, I used HS-81's and 82's in mine.

If look up Funjet Ultra on Youtube there are many videos of Ultra jets flying with motors other than Multiplex, and any good 60 amp+ controller should be fine, the Hobbywing Pentiums are good for high speed motors set-ups. If you want to see how fast a foam jet can fly you should search Youtube for "Turbine powered MPX Ultrajet". there are several, if I only had loads of money?????

I have a few EDF's and the early ones I had were not very well designed with very poor ducting which usually was the cause of that high pitched whine, which I have to admit I do not like, as the designs have improved the sound has become more turbine like, my Alpha jet and Stinger are good examples of this. There does'nt seem to be any negative feelings in my club towards edf's most members really enjoy looking at them so long as they are flown in a safe and reponsible manner.

Looks good, is that form the first of the XBOX (white one) or the lastest version, I have one from the the early white XBOX must dig it out, could do with another PSU.

I have had several switch failure including a heavy duty version switch. It was the heavy duty one which proved the most costly as it resulted in the total loss of the model (a Great Planes Super Stearman), the switch shorted and the resulting load melted the wiring from the battery to switch which allowed the wires to fuse together, the battery got so hot it melted the heat shrink covering. By the way this switch was in the cockpit and was never exposed to fuel, dirt or water.

Cagey, Thanks for the info re. replacement fan, always good to know, I have'nt flown mine in ages though.

Me too please

Chris, Yes I should have considered that as well, the cylinder and liner are all one part on modern Saito's. Do check the 'O' ring seals on the inlet manifold as they have been know to cause problems and it's possble to re-build the engine with the manifold not fully seated at the cylinder head end, I have done it and air gets drawn in, which leans the mixture, I have also had a few 'O' rings become hard and flattened from the washer on the manifold., I used high temp silcone as a temporary fix for this until I got a replacement.

The Saito 125 does vibrate more than other 120 size four-strokes, I never normally run more than 12% nitro in larger four-strokes but I found mine ran much smoother on 20% nitro and no castor based fuels, although it does get expensive on fuel and as such mine now resides in its box. Checking the timing on a Saito is fairly easy, there is a dot on the timing gear which must be pointing straight down when the engine is at top dead center (download the Saito Manual form Horizon USA) but to be honest I don't see how this could have moved in a crash unless its damaged. I presume you checked/reset the tappets after replacing the head, too large a gap will rob power. Its also worth checking for a damaged 'O' ring or missing washer on the inlet manifold at the cylinder head and the 'O' in the carb and make sure they are both seated correctly. Did you check the bearings when you had the cylinder head off as they can be damaged in crash, the crankshaft should turn smoothly without any roughness or rumbling. Edited By YakMad on 08/11/2012 09:04:51 Edited By YakMad on 08/11/2012 09:06:12

Because I have run all my smaller Saito's on lower nitro fuels and found they don't perform as well as they do on higher nitro fuels, larger Saito's from the old 120 (not 125) up to 180 do run well on lower nitro fuel. I have been using Saito's for about 10 years now and even my old Saito 65 which was the very first one I bought and did run it on 10% nitro at first performs much better on 20% fuels. If you are happy with the performance on lower nitro fuels then by all means continue to use it, but the question was put what fuels work best in these engines and in particular a Saito 82 and in my opinion 20% nitro is the minimum I would run in the 82.

Scuffmeister, Answered you fuel question in your other fuel related thread.