Aslan

Perfect Steve. Sure ye might as well go 3mm metal (or 2mm metal)

Agree with BEB. A 2mm or 3mm pushrod will bend in compression in any circumstance,unless it is run inside a supporting tube or fixed as BEB says. I thought you were just asking about the clevises and horns. Even CF rods must be supported to stop any bending, which is the only way to use them. So a 2mm or  2.5mm clevise should be no problem so long as you add support to the pushrod, if you plan on using long lengths. I would suggest, to add to BEBs sugestion, that you put a 90* bend on the end of the pushrod and drill a hole in the dowel,push the rod into it and finnish as above. Sorted.   

Sideways would be a neater fit Ross,with the silencer exiting the bottom.

Have you tried a Chris Foss linkages pack? Might be a lot cheaper than the ones you mentioned above.

Not pedantic at all John, I stand corrected........Whew! would have put (lost) money on that one.......mmmmmm, maybe I could win on it now at the club,moisture in fuel is a fairly regular topic at the club. "Hydroscopic" is often thrown around..... This is copied from Wikipedia "Hygroscopy is the ability of a substance to attract water molecules from the surrounding ... The similar-sounding but unrelated word hydroscopic is sometimes used in error for ..."  I should print the page out and then collect me winningsEdited By Aslan on 26/04/2010 21:43:27

Hydroscopic. A certain amount of moisture will gather inside the container, from the air trapped inside, for sure,but a li'l shake should do the trick,but as Peter says,it would do no harm to borrow a tank of fuel.

Use the ones that came with the model.  

The fuel should be fine Carl. Just give it a shake. Have used fuel after a couple of years with no problems.

Hello Carl,looked like you were adjusting the high end needle when the engine was not at WOT. You should really only adjust this at full throttle. You may have leaned it out too much at the throttle setting you adjusted it at. Tonys'  new plug advice is certainly the first thing to have a look at.

That's the one John. Had to Dremel(sanding drum) a bit to make it fit the 9, but it balances it perfectly.

Have a G Force balancer on a 9Super which works well with the 2.4 module, and the 35 module.Have a 12FG on the tray JC. If you Google "Transmitter Balancer" I'm sure something will come up. Can't post a link for me life, and the last time I copied a link to a post it didn't go down too well. Best of luck with your choice.Edited By Aslan on 25/04/2010 19:10:06

Have you tried a "Transmitter Balancer"? These little gizmos work wonders for the neck strappers.

I use their Mini Tray, and it's an absolute Godsend  'cos I fly fingers and thumbs.

I use a clunk on the filler line as well as the feed to the carb. Drains the tank dry. As Iain says,Tygon is the tubing,and Sullivan make petrol proof tubing also.

Heat shrink over the connection saves a lot of messin' about. Use them all the time with no failures.

Have a couple of  Zenoah 38s James, and they retail about 250 quid. Got one of them from  China for 190 euro. Think I paid about  350 pounds for a Saito 1.80 glow a while back. Keep us informed on the petrol lad.

Here's my tuppence worth regarding Saito petrols, and if that's your personal choice then fair play and go for it,and enjoy it. I have mainly Saitos in all my models,across the board, and I love them to bits..................£800+ for a 36cc petrol engine, with no track record, is a pee take. Sorry lads, but I think they're taking the biscuit. That's a lot of wonga. Any thoughts?  

Feed in a little opposite  elevator Brian. It is now the rudder. A lot of other things are happening aswell. But to keep it simple, try this first. Depending on your transmitter,you could set up a mix, and put it on a switch that you can knock on for KE, and off for normal messing about.  

How do the two cylinders work? How are they set-up?Edited By Aslan on 23/03/2010 14:22:12

Any luck with the engine Weasel?

Excellent news Adrian. Really pleased you got a result. Using Optifuel myself now and it is unbelievable stuff, so I will second YakMad.

If the valve clearances are fine when you check them Weasel, don't worry to much about compression.SCs do not have good compression anyway,but still run well. Don't touch the low end needle until the high end is sorted first. Agree with Steve regarding the O.S. plugs, a bit more money but,but will last forever. 

it's ringed.

Nice one John.

Hello John again, and sorry if this comes across a bit strong, but please do not attempt to charge your battery  because you definitely know nothing about Lipos.  I must warn and tell you, that  they are VERY VERY dangerous. Experienced people have set their houses on fire because of one ...... one silly mistake. Losing your model on the first flight is nothing compared to the damage that mishandling you battery will cause. It has the potential to be a chemical bomb......... seriously John. Hopefully you are near Delta, who has made his generous offer. There is no point in explaining what connections you have until you learn a little more. Apologies for coming on a bit strong........... but trust myself and the rest of the lads,we will point you in the right direction. SAFETY  first and SAFETY  second. Do not be offended by any strong comments or capitals,they ARE  for your own SAFETY and others also.Pleeeeeeeease be careful, and read up about the battery, it is COMPLETELY different than anything you are used to.  Edited By Aslan on 27/02/2010 01:29:47