robert chamberlain

can anyone offer any help on Sermos or Anderson Power Pole plugs as far as Amp carrying capacity ? Thanks in advance. Bob C

I am just getting into electric and am setting up a gentle lady to use the motor to launch. Initial set up is with Sermos or sometimes called Anderson power poles which I find easy to use but I am not certain about their elec rating. Some say there are several ratings and the research I am getting is all over the board. Nothing gets hot ,especially with the short motor runs. Any thoughts out there?---Thanks in advance. Bob C

I have always used lead shot / epoxy mixture,------easy to adjust in small increments. Only started doing this as my hobby shop also sells black powder and shot

Saito 72 four stroke question. Don't know where else to post it. A couple of years ago there was an article in RCM&E about case venting. As I recall, it stressed a rather short length. If I need to vent the case I would need about 6 inches to get it out of the cowling. Anyone ever put this engine in an ARF Cub 40? The cyl is mounted at the 7o'clock position. How much oil really comes out of this vent anyway? Should I pump after run oil into this? If the front bearing is sealed that would be a problem, won't it? ----------any thoughts? Bob C

My thanks to all,--Trevor, Nigel,amdyh,Tim,Ken---------------Bob C in Kansas

Hello all, I was "gifted" a broken sailplane into which I have installed an electric motor powered by a Lipo for the launch. Right now, the receiver is powered by the 5 volts from the ESC. So far , so good. When the Lipo finally shuts down I still have power for the Receiver but, for how long? If I am up in thermal land , I do not want to have to get down. SO,---Separate batt to run the receiver . DO I just cut the little red wire from the ESC and leave the black wire as it is. Doses the black need to stay? or do I just unplug both small wires from the ESC and plug in my separate battery source ? Very little power is required for the sailplane anyway. Any thoughts out there besides the need to have two different batt types to charge? Thanks-----Bob In Kansas USA ?

Hello,----- It has been suggested I go to a 5 cell receiver batt pack to avoid voltage drops due to a temporary high servo load. Am I correct in that this would cause the rec to brown out and shut down for a second? If so, would it re-set quickly? How quickly? Am I on the right track with this?-------Thanks in advance,----Bob C

Just for comparison purposes for the load the prop puts on the engine/motor, I have sometimes used,----P X D X D X D to give me a raw number. Truthfully, I have never correlated this to anything like amps or RPM. Just a thought to put out there. Maybe I drink too much coffee.------Bob C PS--I usually just follow the manufacture's advice

have not worked it out yet

I think sometimes it is a matter of a solution looking for a problem. Why the engine kill when years ago we just pulled the throttle trim back? On my transmitter, in the airplane mode, flaps are called " flaps".---In the glider mode, flaps are called " CAMB" ie camber. Took me awhile to figure that out. I admit this is my first computer trans. Should get better as time goes by.-------------Bob C

I am getting serious about getting going back into flying again, but have a couple of quick questions. 1. I have several Futaba servos, never used, that are over 20 years old. I suppose they have nylon gears. Does this material degrade over time and become brittle? 2. I have several feet of very flexible, multi strand 13 gauge wire, but am not sure how many amps it is good for. I'll check around the internet, but so far only found references to A/C current. 3. I have many Sermos/Anderson power pole connectors but can not find anything in my notes as to their amp rating. As I recall, one could buy them in different ratings. Any ideas?------Thanks in advance----Bob

I was under the impression that Sermos and Anderson Powerpole were the same. True? I was told some years ago that the Sermos had one or two different Amp rating available. Hobby shop is no help. I am going to guess that either is good for 30 Amps which is all I need right now. Any thoughts? Bob C

Hello, just had an Enlope 5 cell pack made for me. I was told it was 1900 MAH using AA cells . It is nicely done with shrink wrap and glue but I can not peal it apart to see the charging rate. The builder didn't have any idea. Before I cut into the wrap can anyone tell me if they are any different from other NiMH units? 10% or 1C? I have some similar NiMH cells sold as "fast charge" but when I looked, it said 10% overnight. I read Tim's piece above and found it interesting, but still have questions. -------------Bob C

Thanks Robin for this information. It is exactly what I needed. Great picture too! Happy New Year

Thanks Percy and John. I do have a watt/amp meter and will see how the GL pulls . Thanks,---Bob

Hello all and Happy New year. Trying to put an electric motor on a Gentle Lady but am confused on the rating as published. The AXI says 25A30s. Does this really mean I can only pull 25 amps for 30 seconds? This probably would be fine to launch the GL, but I could not use it to fly an airplane. No guidance on lower amps. Could I run it at 12 amps for how much longer ? I'll do some bench testing to see how hot it gets and how long it takes to cool off. Lower throttle setting and smaller prop to lower amp/watt draw, of course. What are people putting on gentle ladies for launching? Thanks, Bob C

hello all,---My charger is set to the "default" setting which looks like around 7mv for the cut off on NIMH batts. When the charger says "fully charged" , I can test the batt and it is indeed not fully charged. I noticed that I can hit the button again and it will continue charging again for a short time. I assume the mv is a little low if this can be done. I have the safety features all set ,--time, capacity, temp etc . Any suggestions on a safe mv to set the charger on? Thanks for any advice,---Bob C in Kansas, USA

Hello all,--my peak detection charger has a setting of "Default' to set the peak shut off point, I suppose. It also offers the ability to set the M/V of my choice. What would be a good number, or just leave it alone. "Let sleeping dogs lie' Bob C

Hi Nigel, My biggest worry is the temp. I peak charged a 1900 Rec pack (NiMh) at 800 Mah and it got quite warm. I would call it HOT really. I'll try it again and use a contact loop around it as well as a non contact type (infared)? We'll see just what we are dealing with as far as temp goes and will report back. You say the Eneloop web site made no mention of temp? I'll noodle around the Web and see what's up,------later Bob C

All good info above.--much needed. To sum it all up, ---1/2 C is going to set off peak detection and low charge (100-200) Ma is better at balancing for my 1900 MA Enlope trans batt. I called Hitec and they said wallwart was just a trickle charger which I measured at 90 Ma. The issue is---- I do not know when to take the trans off the wallwart as I do not know the state of charge left in the trans batt after the last flight. It sure gets more that warm at 90Ma if left on for a few hours..Hitrc suggested removing batt from trans and connecting it to peak charger. Ever try to get that little bugger disconnected? You can not peak charge through regular port because of the diode. I thought I would just carefully cut batt wire and splice in a male/female plug making it easy to remove batt and not play around with that little plug in trans. Yes ,another failure point, but would make it very easy to peak charge .What makes it confusing is that there is at first a red light ,then a green light on the wall wart. Another setting on my peak charger is "M/V cut off. I have it set to 'default', but is there a better setting? Thanks everyone for your time. Bob C

Hello all,---I recently tried to charge up my Hitec trans with the included wallwart unit. The trans had been sitting for about 3 months and I thought I would give the 7.2 nickel metal batt a charge. Usually this doesn't take all that long but this time I left it connected for about 3 hours. The little red light stayed on and it never went to green as usual so I figured all was well. Boy, was that batt HOT ! I could touch it ,but it was more than just a little warm. So-----either the wallwart went crazy or the batt has a problem. Could it be that one cell went dead and the charger kept trying to bring the voltage up? It did read 8.2 on the trans screen, however. Maybe the other 5 cells now are over charged? I measured the output of the wallwart on another batt and it showed 80 MAH. I was thinking of cutting open(carefully ) the bat to see if a cell was dead. Are these wallwart chargers just trickle chargers? I would think not if they had both a red and a green light. Maybe I'll just make up a cable and charge it from my charger( assuming the wallwart goes directly to the battery and not through some circuits inside.----Any thoughts would be appreciated.! Oh, while I am here, what is a good setting for the MV /cell cut off for the peak detection charge? I owe you Bob C

Yep, there it is on their web page.----depending where you read it. either 20/30/ 60 sec run time! No wonder it got hot in 3 min! ----Bob

Simon, thanks for the good info. I can't find that 60 sec note anywhere on the paper that came with the motor. Is that true for all 2814/20 motors and if so, what good are they except to quick glider launches?! According to the Hobby Express catalog it is good for 3 and 4 Lipos. Sorry I spent $100 on this. At what temp do magnets not become magnets anymore? Thanks again--Regards, Bob C

Hi all, I am converting an old GentleLady to a motor/Lipo launch. I know that as the battery depletes the prop stops but there will/should be enough power to run the receiver and servos for a period of time. If this were a powered airplane, the best idea would be to land . But ,If there was a lot of thermal activity going on I just do not want to land right now. SO,---the way I figure it is to cut the small red wire which usually goes to the receiver, tape it over, and plug in a separate battery pack into the receiver of a size I know will be OK for several hours or until my neck gives out. Does this sound about right? ----------Another silly question if I may.( I have not flown in years) if I plug the servo in the wrong way will anything bad happen or will it just not work?-------Regards, Bob C

Hi Piers, I tested the set up with one of those Amp/Volt/Watt meters units. Recommended prop is an 11/5 although I have an11/6 on it. I bought it through Hobby Lobby here in the U.S. Note: now called Hobby Express . The next step is the ESC . Maybe motor timing? Motor is rated for 3 or 4 Lipos and 25 Amps