Jon Robb

I ordered a Dualsky GA1500.5 Motor from them a few months ago. It arrived two days later. I had fast response to an initial stock inquiry. In short I would order from them again.

CNHL batteries are my go to battery these days, I have used them in both planes and helicopters and the IR have remained low. From a price to value ratio they seem very good. All mine are in the 6s 50-70c range 3500-5000mAh.

Having a DC supply really opens up your charging capabilities, for example this 20A charger covered my needs for a long time and I had no issues with it until I needed more charging capabilities. In terms of DC supplies. If you are happy to do a bit of research then HP DPS-1200FB server power supplies can be easily converted to supply you with 2400W @ 24V (100A) Failing that Ian Contessa can supply already converted server PSU's ready to pair with whichever charger you choose. Edited By Jon Robb on 28/11/2020 01:25:57

Try Chris at Slec as I think they used to cut the kits originally.

A lot of people around that area are members of the Beaufort Model Flying Club, that may be the best place to start for drumming up interest.

HRB are a cheaper battery brand that have stood the test of time with a lot of the heli fliers drawing high amps, could be a possible alternative.

Looking forward to following your build Tim, I bought the same at the nationals and have made a start on the undercarriage supports. However the build will pick up more pace once the nights draw in and flying is restricted.

Mine came with tips and I bought a few different ones as well.

I use a Hakko FX888D and have found it to be very good. If you envisage you will be doing quite a lot of soldering then its a worthwhile investment, there is a massive range of tips, digital temperature output and maintains heat well. Also if spares were ever required, they are very well supported. **LINK**

Page 13 of the fixed wing test standards describes the manoeuvre in detail. However in short it should always start and finish being flown into wind with the first turn made away from the pilot, so the model is directly in front of the pilot and briefly flying directly away from the pilot. **LINK**

I use a lot of Titebond glue for models and other wood working pursuits. I find it sands very well, this too is an aliphatic glue so it could be down to the brand.

I recently had a wing and tailplane CNC hot wire cut by Phillip at Cloud Models, I was impressed with the results. As has been mentioned, Bill also is a very good wing cutter.

Thanks for the update Kim, it goes to show how forgiving this plane is then as the nose weight is quite hefty!

Did you check the CG before removing the nose weight? A lot of Riot V2's in my club, flown on 3s 2200mAh and people seem pretty happy with the weight distribution without removing the nose weight. I left mine in at the time and had the battery sat as far back as possible.

I can second a lot of the advice already given looking back at when I learned to fly. I started off with a max thrust riot which is large enough to see easily, has enough mass to cope with fairly blustery conditions and can be set up docile with minimal throws. I also purchased RealFlight which seemed a large outlay at the time. However I think it saved many crashes and repair bills, by giving me confidence and muscle memory as a follow on from things I learned when flying with a club tutor.   I have also had the experience one time of paid tuition when I wanted to start flying helicopters. There was no one in my club flying helicopters outdoors thus no one to buddy box with and see whether it was something I would enjoy. I went to see Paul Heckles in Swindon who runs a fixed wing and helicopter flight school. By the end of the lesson I was hovering a 600 size helicopter and had the confidence to then try it alone with my own helicopter. So both avenues have benefitted me, however I would echo what others have said and if possible try again with a different club instructor and a simulator as there is a wealth of knowledge in clubs. Everyone progresses at different speeds so don’t give up. Edited By Jon Robb on 08/05/2019 20:00:48 Edited By Jon Robb on 08/05/2019 20:01:41

I don’t think this would give the flexibility required as aliphatic is quite brittle. A better glue would be UHU por.

I appreciate this is resurrecting an old thread, however incase anyone comes looking for the plan based on the thread title, it may be relevant. I spoke with Ken today on a different matter and he informed me although no longer flying, he still has the master plans for his planes and can supply copies at cost.

Speaking to John tonight he said the drone you have purchased will work perfectly. He is also working on a part two of the article so keep an eye out for that. He would like to see your take on the idea once it's finished.

I spoke to him the latter part of last week so he is still around, in the past he has advised mornings are the best time to get hold of him or to email him and he will call me back.

As a member of our club, John presented a talk on Monday about the history of VTOL. From WW2 to the present day, culminating in him flying a few of these designs around the room. Many of the club members were surprised just how well the models flew. I shall be seeing him Friday so if you would like any more information let me know. They are good fun and a simple build.

There is a guy in my club who routinely flies his easy street, very aerobatic and a nice size.

Posted by Nigel R on 21/02/2019 14:48:05: That's quite a lipo to squeeze into a 2.5lb model. Still, if it goes. What prop are you going with? I will have to see what I can fit in once it’s built. I would rather have useable weight than dead weight. As for prop size Nigel I haven’t decided, in your experience what would your recommend?

I am thinking of 3300mAh 3s however ill only be able to tell once most of the plane is together and I see what balances the plane out best. I’d rather not have to put lead in the nose and have useable weight instead.

I was under the impression that Logic RC were now the service centre and John Norris was handling all repairs but I may be wrong.

Thanks for the input guys. It is comparable to what 4max recommend as a replacement to the Hyperion so I thought I was in the approximate right place. In terms of the other controls, I have never liked aileron torque rods so I am going to go for two separate servos either in the wing like Baz did on his Fizza or one either side of the fuselage under the wing. Would in the fuselage be preferential due to being able to mount them more securely? Edited By Jon Robb on 21/02/2019 10:01:15