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jrman

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Everything posted by jrman

  1. jrman
    Try the Just Engines on board glow. It's fit and forget.
  2. jrman

    BBQ Engine cleaner

    jrman replied to Stevo's topic in IC Engines

    I'll try that out. I've used Fairy Power Spray in the past which has also worked very well.
  3. jrman
    Possibly based on a Brian Taylor 109. Cowls are available from another well known web site.
  4. jrman
    Sounds like you hadn't set the failsafe correctly.
  5. jrman
    Have you looked at the photographs on the TN web site? They show this area very clearly.
  6. jrman
    It's worth talking to Phil at Fighteraces as other colours and mixing advice is available. He's a very helpful and knowledgeable fellow.
  7. jrman
    Try "Warbird Colours" or "KlassKote" from Phil at Fightertaces.**LINK**
  8. jrman
    I always use shrinking dope over Solartex and confirm it does tauten further after heat shrinking. The longest lasting model using this technique lasted about 18 years until it succumbed to a mid air. The covering was still taut to the end.
  9. jrman
    The "wax" is used as a means of reducing the emission of volatile vapours as the resin cures. It does not assist in the bonding of subsequent coats, in fact it does quite the opposite and should be removed before applying any further resin. An easy way of doing this is with "wet & dry" paper using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) as the wetting medium. You'll know if you haven't done it well enough as you will get "fish eyes" in the subsequent coats. Don't confuse Laminating Resins and Finishing Resins, they are both prepared for different purposes.I have found that excess thinning ( >25%) will reduce the effectiveness of most finishing resin systems.
  10. jrman
    Use Isopropyl Alcohol. You can get it from your friendly chemists.
  11. jrman
    Listed on the SIG website.**LINK**
  12. jrman
    Try this.**LINK**
  13. jrman
    It's caused by gyroscopic precession induced by the rotating mass of the motor. Correct it with right rudder during take off.
  14. jrman
    I agree with Simon. Clark Y at the root and symmetrical at the tip will accentuate tip stalling at increased AOA. Exactly the opposite of what you intended. Use symmetrical at the root with Clark Y at the tip to give the effect of washout.
  15. jrman
  16. jrman

    jrman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  17. jrman
    If it's a new engine it probably needs a lot more running in before you can expect good transition from full throttle to tickover and vice versa. I've seen some SC's that have taken over a gallon of fuel before anything like acceptable throttling could be achieved. Set the slow running needle back to the factory setting as per the instructions and have patience.
  18. jrman
    Try dusting with Baking Soda (Bicarbonate of Soda). This can also be used to build up fillets or as a "pre treatment" on oily woods such as pine or spruce.Just rub it into the surface before adding the cyano.
  19. jrman
    Keith, I have sent you a message.
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