AJ

No not the proper old glass ones, the ones you get your milk in nowadays from Tesco et al, Has to be one of the most useful items coming out of her kitchen on the way to the rubbish. Use the tops as little mixing pots. Then cut sections from the sides with your craft knife. Not much in the way of glue will stick to this stuff. Large flat bits make great mixing boards. Small bits used for packing between bits of plane that should not be stuck together. Cut the bottom off in one piece to make a pot for cleaning fluids or mixing larger volumes of liquids. Cut the top off with the handle included to make a funnel. Any other uses? A.

How long does your sensor take to lock? I used mine a couple of weeks ago and it was taking up to 5 mins after power on to lock onto the sats and provide position info back to the tx. Tonight I tried it again but even after 10 mins waiting it still hadn't locked. Is this normal or is mine faulty?  It was outside all this time with a clear view of the sky. A.   Edited By Andrew Eastland on 20/06/2014 23:37:58

Sorry but don't think I will get there, would have been a dawn flyer if I could have made it. A.

Thanks Andy, just what I needed. Cable on order. Looking at the release notes for the x8r I think it explains why my dates are so weird

Andy, how do you update the 8xr and the sensors, I havn't seen this before, do you have a link to any info? A.

I updated mine some time ago, it was a total non event. As I recall you do need to install an extra bit of software before you can do the upgrade. A.

I"ll stick around for some of that please. A.

Sounds like he might have overloaded the Orange rx front end. A.

Learn from it and improve A.

Ben, all you need to do is drop a few diodes in series in the +ve power line between the rx and the servo. Each diode will drop about 0.5 volts, so for example to drop 6v down to 5v put 2 diodes in line. Any general purpose diode will do so long as it is adequetly rated to carry the current drawn by the servo. A.

If you really are going to extend by that much you will need thicker than 5a wire to avoid voltage drop. I would suggest using the heaviest gauge flex you can find. A.

Martin, there is no need to download anything to set it up, if you don't want to then you never need to go near the computer, it's just that good as it is, it still doesn't have a 20" screen and full size keyboard, so generally it is easier to set up on the computer, that said though it is no harder than any other to do it directly on the tx. A.

The diamond cutters work well but note there is no centering bit so can sometimes be difficult to position accurately. I find they are best used in a drill press. A.

Ian, the v3 works just like the v2. Just put the second aileron on ch5. It really will work perfectly well with just one aileron on the gyro. It just means the gyro will drive the single aileron a little further than it would drive a pair. A.

Just connect the gyro into one aileron only, keep the other aileron on a seperate channel with no gyro. The gyro can easily do it's thing with a single aileron, you will need a little bit more gain but apart from that it makes no diferrence. A.

Finally completed my new 4 channel wing. And from the top.- I have set up the inboard surfaces on a 3 way switch so they can be either used as flaps, added to the outboard ailerons or disabled. Flaps are controlled on a slider so I can wind them up or down, once I have worked out the best positions I will move them onto another 3 pos switch. The servos are connected via a 4 channel sbus to cppm adapter so there is only a single connection required to the rx. The second lead you can see is for lights which are on a separate channel. I have built it so the two outer ailerons are on channels 2 & 5 which are the same channels I use on my 2 channel wing, that way I can swap between wings without having to change the Tx settings, assuming the trims are all correctly centred The two inboard surfaces are on channels 9 & 10 so I can control/trim them independently from the Tx. Just off to the field to give it a try. Andrew

Hi Darran, I missed that little detail on mine as well. I just drilled the hole out as per the plan and then pumped a load of gorilla glue in there before fitting the dowel. The gorilla glue expands up and supports the rear of the dowel. I have not had any problems despite many flights and including a number of rather heavy landings. A.

Hi, What flux do people use for soldering steel/piano wire u/c etc? Currently I am using an 80W iron with a PCB flux paste designed for surface mount work, plus multicore solder. This works but gets very messy. Any better suggestions welcome? Andrew.

I have got the 130a meter and have been very pleased with it. Note you will need to solder on your own connectors. Andrew

If it's coming from the Hong kong whse then 30 days+ is pretty typical, I would give it another week at least. Check the HK web site and so long as there are no problems shown for the order it will turn up eventially. Andrew

Hi Steve, First thing to note is that any led must have a resistor in series before you connect it to power otherwise the led will blow, so check this. Given that it has a suitable resistor then simply connect them all to the +ve & -ve supply. This can be found on any servo connector, +ve is the centre pin,, -ve is the brown or black wire. Connect all the leds in parallel, ie all +ves together and all -ves together. If you get any the wrong way around it won't do any harm, the led will just not work. Andrew

Have you set the throttle range? Power on with full throttle, wait fot beep, then drop throttle to zero. Usual warning re removing the prop first. Andrew

Shane, interested in your choice of batteries, I fly mine on a pair of 2200 3C in parrallel, ie 3C2P 4400mah which gives me 20 -30 mins depending on how I fly. Andrew