Manish Chandrayan

For two line the only way to fill is through the feed line. Disconnect from carb, fill, reconnect, start the engine and fly if you wish to.

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Nothing better than the broken ring to clean that ring groove. Please don't go breaking rings just to clean the groove🤣

Martin, the older Rcexl ignitions were meant for 4.8-6v and marked so accordingly. Check your new ignition and the compatible voltage should be clearly indicated on the ignition. Current one's will work perfectly on 2s LiFe and I personally prefer separate LiFe packs for ignition and Rx unless the model demands ballast, whereupon out comes the largest 4/5 cell NiCd pack for the ignition. Regarding checking your LiFe packs without taking off the wings, you can extend the balance lead with a custom made lead where one end would have standard 2S JST female connector to mate with the pack's male balance connector, and the other end will need to be cut off and a standard Futaba/JR 3 wire male connector spliced. This connector then suitably fixed on to the model for easy access. When required, pull out the extension and plug it in to your checker pins. Edit Just read (missed it first time around) that your ignition is 4.8-6v. My advice would be to change the ignition to later version and switch to LiFe packs as soon as possible. I have had regulators fail. Later version ignition with LiFe has less components to fail

For petrol, my personal preference is to always use the glass tank as shown in Dale Bradly's post. So three lines always. The "T" introduces two extra joints in the plumbing and can also introduce debris in the feed line while filling up. Use a sintered bronze, ceramic or felt clunk and any debris introduced during filling are filtered from the feed line

Yes it will be. I maidened mine last Saturday. I am using an Enya 120R

That is one racy paint scheme and nicely done too

If very slightly smaller OD tubes are available the masking tape method as indicated by Geoff works well. Another trick is to use suitable heat shrink tube over the carbon tube to take up any slack. If worried about the strength of the lower OD tube, one can use the next smaller size carbon tube telescoped inside the larger one (can be epoxied inside). That will probably be much more stronger than a single tube (with a slight weight penalty). I have used the masking tape with double tube and also the heat shrink tube method

Having considered various options , the easiest to try was the heat shrink route. The carb intake has a slightly raised lip (around 1 -1.5mm) and an OD of 15mm that is surrounded by the bracket opening. I shrunk a suitable tube and tried to put it on, but there being hardly any clearance between the bracket and the raised lip the bracket would not seat. In order for the heat shrink tube to fit the bracket would have to be filed off so that the heat shrink tube is tightly held. Second issue I encountered was that the bracket itself would foul the straight run of the tube, that is unless the bracket is cut off and made a two piece affair. (see the red lines on the picture). Even after being cut the raised round portion at the back of crank case (red arrow) would still create a sort of dent inside the heat shrink tube. What is the considered opinion, regarding cutting off the bracket and making it a two piece affair and the resultant bump in the heat shrink intake trumpet ?

Aidan, Thank you! Apart from minor ARTF niggles there were no major issues with the assembly. Looks quite close to a proper Chipmunk, flies good (as also attested by many others on this very forum). In short, from your posts I see that you are not a novice, yes go for it

Maidened the Seagull Chipmunk last Saturday. Powered by an Enya 120R , 15x8 APC prop. No drama, few clicks of right aileron and few of up elevator. Did junk the kit supplied pilot busts. Canopy is currently fixed with screws and double sided tape for easy removal once I get a pilot bust of my liking. Short clips of maiden T/o and landing captured on phone camera

I am very satisfied with the running, it is almost giving me numbers that was published in engine review (despite using lower nitro and being located in hot and humid tropics). The engine idles and transitions reliably, it's just the mess it's making has me a bit bothered. In anticipation, all exposed wood was given a good thorough coat of epoxy before the engine was run on the model. Engine Doctor, yes I had read that the enlarged carb venturi and valve overlap on the 120 R created this issue. Paul, I think I will try fashioning a trumpet out of heat shrink as it might be possible to anchor it under the carb retaining flange and see if that helps in solving my issue to some extent

Hello Nigel, not only the 'a' even the standard FS series all have a slightly raised lip that I suppose helps. People have made one even from heat shrink tube, but yes, fixing any venturi will be a major challenge.

JD, the Enya 120R and the 155 have that setup from Factory. The 90 and the 120 (bored out 90) had different carb fixing as you rightly say. Does your 90 have same issue?

What (all) can I do to reduce the fuel reversion from the Enya 120 R carb. The engine is mounted inverted on a Seagull Chipmunk. Prop 15x8 APC, fuel 16% lube, 5% nitro. OS FS plug. Top end 8400 steady, idle set around 2000 and then I think further lowered with Tx trim till the model won't creep, did not bother to check the final idle rpm. The engine was tested on bench (mounted straight up) with an Enya 3 plug and 7% nitro, and 15x8 MAS prop at 8800. The numbers look good to me when compared with the published reviews. Both on the bench and in the model it was noticed that the carb spits out excessive amount of raw fuel. the carb is a metered air bleed and the engine transitions fine . One may notice from the below picture that the carb intake is almost flat (with a very short lip to engage the bracket) and may not have any venturi effect to reduce the fuel reversion. What is the considered opinion to reduce the reversion that is making a mess in the cowl and on the firewall of the model?

Warm up the area a bit with a hair dryer prior to application of the parcel tape. That should make the job a bit more easy.

Brown parcel tape stuck over the colur patch and ripped off, repeat if required. That should take off most. Stubborn leftovers, scrape off with a dull razor blade, sand off and ready for covering

Quarter scale Tiger Moth, built from Falcon Models kit. Powered by a Laser 150 Falcon Models Tiger Moth powered by a Laser 150  

Based on sound advice, here is what I have done. Surgery to the tank tray, installed cross grained ply,spruce and bass braces to tieup the formers where opportunity existed. Happy with the tank position now

Thank you for patiently answering. Happy landings 👍

Perfect! That explains it quite well. Since the cut out is quite away from the firewall it leaves enough meat and will not seriously compromise the firewall strength (hope so). Have you encountered any iengine running ssues due to the distance from the engine? I am planning to use a Sullivan 14oz tank. Neat idea of installing a shelf to take the Just engines on board glow battery etc. Thank you once again. I will take the scalpel and get on with it.

No worries Anthony thank you for taking time to reply. I assume that when you say bottom of the engine box, you mean the factory provided tank location? Or is it suspended from the factory tray? Or is the tank actually resting on the curved fuse bottom? Did you have to resort to some sort of surgery on the model to get the tank where you have it? Thank you

Hello Anthony Is your tank located at the standard factory location or did you cut the mounting area to lower the tank height? I am mounting an Enya 120 and really not happy with the tank mounting height that is designed for Walbro equipped petrol engine or for mounting batteries in an electric version. On the other hand cutting the tank mount is likely to weaken the firewall integrity. Same question for Low Pass Pete since both of you are using more or less similar powerplants

Ken, I pray that the Spektrum agent's response remains true. My experience has been different. I have had the display gradually fail once similar patch appeared on my Futaba and JR Tx's.

Turning the contrast is only a temporary fix. The patch indicates that the reflective surface at the rear of the LCD is on its way downhill