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Panther1

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Everything posted by Panther1

  1. I bought one but haven't flown it yet. Like you I ripped out the 5 blade fan and put in a 10 blade and decent motor. Just gotta get some small 4S packs before I fly it.
  2. Seems to me your Bungee is made for a heavier glider and does not have a nice elastic stretch for a lighter one. I use to have 50 meters of bungee and 50 of line and could get to amazing heights. 8 meters I wouldn't contemplate as that just becomes a catapult, not a bungee.
  3. The hook goes forward of the CG point. (at least an inch) It gives much better control than being on the CG and tows straighter.
  4. Ooops, double clicked Edited By Panther1 on 25/09/2013 09:41:09
  5. Hobby King sell very cheap Bungee (Hi Start) Rubber. Light model and heavy model. Use it with some heavy duty fishing line. You also need a chute to pull the line off. Edited By Panther1 on 25/09/2013 09:42:16
  6. I used to have a photocopier and photocopy the formers on a bit of paper and then using a hot iron, place the paper face down on the balsa sheet and press the hot iron on it. The ink would transfer to the balsa. I doubt inkjet printers will do this, but some laser printers may be OK as they are heat copiers. This keeps you plan pristine apart from a couple of folds from fitting it on the scanner.
  7. Way back when I was learning about R/C and before I got my first one, a friend had one of these. It really impressed me as there wasn't much it couldn't do. It was quite a docile plane.
  8. I use a 3 blade on my little PC9 and it looks great and performs really well. What more do you want? I found that the last couple of times I bought Master Airscrew props, the manufacturer has guidelines on the packaging for upgrading to a 3 blade prop. From memory it was drop down 1" and up 1" in pitch from a 2 blade. As the prop size increases this rule changes. I found it doesn't matter too much with a model as I had a spare 3 blade with less pitch and the model really sizzles. It is also far less load on the motor and I get good long motor runs and that outweighs any extra performance thay may be perceived by more pitch.
  9. Sik is great but would be limited in our hobby. It needs to be fresh to get maximum adhesion and in our climate (Australia) I found it can solidify in the tube fairly quickly after it has been opened. I doubt I would ever get to use a full tube on models before it went 'off '. Apart from that, it is damned awful stuff to get off your hands and other places it shouldn't be. lol However, that said, it could have its' place with experimentation.
  10. Hobby King may be your answer. This module fits the Prism 7 and comes with a receiver as well. Or if you want Telemetry, get the DF version. It doubt it wll run your Orange receivers but I decided it wasn't important to use the receivers I already had when you can get virtually a new system for this price. The receivers for the FF version are only about $18 and the DF are slightly more being Telemetry. Both TX modules are the same so if you want Telemetry then just buy a DF receiver. Just plug it straight in. I just bought one for my Hi Tec Optic 6     Edited By Panther1 on 08/09/2013 04:37:57
  11. Whatever you get make sure it has a decent bearing in the chuck end. I have tried the ones with bushes and they are total rubbish and make more of a mess than anything.
  12. I had that happen with control horns on a 6 year old model and servo arms the same age developed minute cracks from the holes to the edges. (JR arms) These arms had not even been used. Lucky I found them before I reflew the model.
  13. Hi Roy, There is no plan for the wing as it came ready built and just had to be joined. If there had been one you would have been welcome to it for nix. Just got my Prolux digital iron in the post today and still waiting on my engine mount but I have been concentrating on my Raptor FPV the last week or two. Just had my first flight with it yesterday. It has a really tough plastic fuselage and EPO wings and flys well. I have always been a balsa bloke but the heat here can do horrible things to the covering and that has swayed me to certain foamies of late. I don't buy EPP foamies though, just EPO. Trouble is the cost of building in balsa now has made me re-evaluate my modelling trends as it is so much cheaper just to buy planes now than build from scratch. I have had obechi wings before on my large gliders so I am pretty familiar with them, even used to cut my own cores and laminate them. I hope someone has a plan for you but don't like your chances. I may even do a built up wing for my Precent but I always do my own plans. Cheers Doug
  14. I had a vinyl cutter and used to make all my own signage for models. Never had any come off with fuel and they looked great. Nowadays you can buy A4 sized Transfer paper and print what ever you want, just give them a light spray with clear lacquer, cut them out when dry and sit them in water and slip them on and pat dry. The ink you get in inkjets lasts for years longer than your model will. If you use vinyl on wings etc, just make sure the mono cote or whatever is nice and tight first, but you can reshrink it with stickers on if you don't get too exuberant.
  15. I was just given a Precedent T180 (nearly finished) and apparently they only have part plans, not full ones. I think there is a construction book in the box. Mine came with an obechi covered foam core wing and I have thought of cutting sections out to make it lighter but am frightened the laminate may lift around the edges if it is not stuck properly. I have bought a G46 (electric) motor for it and have an engine mount coming and had nearly everything else needed in my stocks. Is yours the Foam wing? If so, they are heavy and would benefit from a lighter built up wing. I have thought of doing one myself.
  16. After all this time I finally ordered one but I think the pricing dosen't seem quite right. Naturally I ordered the digital one as they are the same price. ?? Here Did you get yours Colin?     Edited By Panther1 on 03/07/2013 13:30:55
  17. Without looking you got a friend to put it in the car? then went home. In a sulk? Unbelievable.
  18. I made mine from multi-laminated ply about 5/16" thick and shaped it with a sanding disk. I stuck a nail in it to get the balance point right. If you do that the performance will surprise you. If you lacquer it it goes twice as fast. Edited By Panther1 on 18/06/2013 03:28:18
  19. Mike that is incredible. That thing is the best boomerang I have ever seen fly. It goes out, circles back above your head and then comes down like a helicopter and you can catch it between your palms as it hovers down. If you balance it right you don't even have to move your position on the ground. It returns exactly to you. I have seen many boomerangs, but nothing like this one. Thank you so much for your time.
  20. About 40 years ago there was a free plan for a (aboriginal) Boomerang in a flying magazine. I made several at the time and they were absolutely amazing performers. I would love to find a copy of that plan again.
  21. Thanks mate, that pic would have to be more than 40 years old now. I marvel at the job I made of it now. lol Edited By Panther1 on 05/06/2013 05:54:33
  22. I think I have it this time... LOL
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