ron evans

I hope you're right John, but I expected the Aussies to come put of the blocks on fire next week after that loss.

Not pretty, but a bonus point point win.

Don't know his name, but I think he's from Aberystwyth.😄

Hi Andy, span of the L-39 is 47" all the details in the for sale section. I really wanted to move this model on as mobility problems limit me to the slopes I can easily reach. However, as there was no interest this model will eventually have to earn it's keep. I will block the intakes, and remove the underwing tanks, they look vulnerable. Just a case then of waiting for a good NW wind and drive up to Abertysswg. Made it to the Bwlch a few years back, I remember the F104 well. Sadly not able to do it this year. Ron

Thanks for your reply John, I'm still undecided on the models fate. Sadly I can no longer climb some of the better slopes here in Wales, so it will have to go off a local slope with a road to the top, and as you say in a decent wind. If I have any success I'll let you know. Ron

Hi all, with no interest in my Albatros for sale I have to decide what to do with the airframe, It's been hanging around my neck for too long.😀 My first thoughts were to remove the servos and scrap it, but I am also curious if it would go off the slope. I've seen all shapes and sizes of PSS flying at the Bwlch, and I'm looking for some advise. Would it be better to block up the intakes, or leave them open for the air to flow through. At around 4ibs AOW the wing loading would be quite high, so perhaps my first thoughts might be wiser. Thanks in antisipation Ron

On its second flight a hard landing caused some damage in the wheel well and a split in the top covering of the right wing. There is some crazing on the underside of the wing tank mouldings. There are a few marks on the fuselage, but it is generally in good condition. Span 47" length 51". No fan unit or u/c is fitted. There are five servos on the main control surfaces but none on the flaps. Asking £60 cash on collection from Blackwood South Wales.

Not sure if these models could be called classic, but the full size certainly were so here goes. Two more by Tim Angel, a turbine Jet Provost, and a radial powered Jungmeister.

This is a shot of the Hobbit autogiro, flown by the late Tim Angel at our club field a few years ago. Tim designed and produced kits for this model back in the dark ages.

Back in the last century I managed to drop a 7 cell nicad pack onto hard ground. The insulation looked undamaged but within a few seconds the pack got very hot and burned the insulation away, fizzing as it went. Not as bad as a lipo fire, but would have given a nasty burn if carried in the pocket. In contrast, some years later I was flying a foam MX2 and when pulling hard into the vertical the 3s 2200 pack came out and they both went in from about 30 ft. The MX2 was a mess and I fully expected the lipo to burst into flames, but it didn't despite being bent like a banana. The pack was left to mellow for a few hours and I eventually took it home in the car ( a short journey, but in hindsight not the wisest thing to do ). I cycled the pack a number of times and briefly ran it at 22a in the repaired MX2, but never used it again in the air. I think that tough pack was a Gens Ace. Ron

Pretty little Robot Outrunner, what tissue did you use over the lam film ? Ron

Hi Simon, sorry to hear of your back problems, can't help on that front I'm afraid, except to say my retired brother in law was laid low and immobilized for six weeks with a back and then it got better as quickly as it came. I am 75 and take meds for Rheumatoid Arthritis which puts me in the vulnerable bunch. I've had 6 jabs and been very careful over the last two years. Despite that I managed to catch covid at Christmas, and it was the most ill I have ever been, and even now I am not as fit or confident as I was before the bug, I occasionally check my blood pressure, and It's always been fine, but after covid it has shot up. My doc thought it was unconnected until he checked online, and there it was, elevated blood pressure, along with a list of other ailments brought on after covid. Oh well another lot of tablets to take. I hope you get the back sorted soon. Ron

The tape I used is 1" wide laid in strips. When I first used it to fix balsa sheet to a foam wing, I was concerned it might delaminate, but after a number of years sat in the attic it was fine, and now is flying regularly.

Hi Tosh, for a larger area like the top sheet of a kf wing, I've used double sided sticky tape, with a thin bead of glue around the edges and weighted down overnight. I've also used this method to fix balsa sheet to a 45" foam wing. The B&Q 6mm floormate I use glues well with Gorilla wood glue, not sure if it is aliphatic. Although most advise against its use, £ shop UHU works ok if you spread it thin quickly, the solvent flashes off before much damage is done. Try it on some scrap bits first. Ron

Peter J.--not sure I could build to 0.5 deg accuracy 🥲. I've often wondered why top aerobatic models do not use all moving tailplanes. When trimmed for s/l flight the wing/tail incidence must be right, wherever you chose to put the c/g. I've only had one model with an a.m.t., an aerobatic sloper over 40yrs ago. It flew well with smooth but powerful pitch control. Some weeks later I flew it in a very strong wind and pulling out of a high speed dive the tailplane fluttered, about a second or so of machine gun like noise than a bang as one half of the a.m.t. broke off. Thankfully I still had pitch control so turned downwind to make a normal if hurried landing. The fault lay with the long control horn being too flexible, so with that stiffened and repairs made there were no further problems. The model still gets an occasional outing today. As the model flew ok with half a tail, it had me wondering if I had made the tail too big 🤔 The a.m.t is a bit unnecessary on a club aerobat, but maybe just the job on the new breed of F3A. Ron

All the models I have built for aerobatics have wing/tail incidence set at 0 deg, and has worked with wing sections from symmetrical to flat plate. If you need more pitch stability, that's a different matter. Incidentally🙂 the meaning of the word decalage is...The difference between the angles of incidence of the two wings of a biplane. Ron

Hi Maurice, sorry for the late reply, but as EarlyBird has posted, the plan is on OZ. Although my version does differ from the original in some areas, it is basically a Fizza. Two other examples are flying at our club, they are quick at full chat, particularly the 4s version and they can be flown safely at very low speed. Nigel Hawes also designed a larger version called Wizza, plan not on OZ but as a free plan in RCM&E would still be available. My Fizza uses a 2830 1900 kv motor 8x6 prop 30A sc drawing 24A from a 3s 2200 lipo. Ron

Sort of Fizza. Put the wing together a few years ago, then lost interest. Rekindled interest, found the wing, but not the plan so made the rest from memory. Then a clubmate told me the plan was on OZ. Maiden flight today was fine. A bit porky at 23oz but with 250 Watts it's quite nippy, and quite remarkable low speed handling.

Hi Keith, Well done with the maiden, sorry I missed it. May be next time we're up the patch. Ron

Ray, what did you use to attach the newspaper, and was there any tendency to warp. And finally, did you use the Mirror for the left wing and the Mail for the right wing.? Ron.

Yes tosh, 18grams/m2 I think.

Sorry Tosh, can't remember where I saw the article, but I can give a brief description of the method. Fill any dings with lightweight filler. Cut glass cloth oversize and lay on the underside of wing first. Brush on poly ( I use Wilkos ) pulling out any creases and pulling down over the edges. Keep an eye on the glass as it dries to make sure it doesn't lift or pull away from the edges.dab with more poly as required. When dry sand off cloth around the edges and repeat for the top surface. Make up a mix of filler and poly to the consistency of melted ice cream, and brush on a coat. When dry lightly sand down, being careful not to cut through the glass. The idea is to just fill the weave. I used 2 coats and a final coat of clear poly. I also used the top glass layer as a hinge. Mark out the control surface on the underside and cut a V on the hinge line, being careful not to pierce the top glass layer, now cut out the rest of the surface, then poly the exposed edges. You can now paint with anything, I used a rattle can spray, as the poly appears to protect the foam from anything nasty. Don't think it adds too much weight, my blue 28" Cutlass AUW was under 20oz with a 3s 2200 lipo. Take a look at my pics. Ron