ron evans

Simon, this occurred in the morning, before the lights had been switched on that day, so would any residual have lasted from the previous evening. Ron

J D 8, The bulbs were 3x low energy candle type. Ron

A bit off topic, but lightbulb related. A few days ago the lightbulbs in the dining lit up with a low glow without being switched on. They switched on & off normally but the low glow remained and fluctuated for a few minutes before going out. Any explanations out there. Thanks. Ron

+1 for the dive test Tosh, but with plenty of altitude, just in case the previous nose down tendency reappears !! Just did the dive test with my latest E model. Power off it works a treat.

Posted by Peter Miller on 22/08/2020 17:12:27: They look very like my SWamp Rat...and a few thousand other models going back to Gasser and beyond Very true. I'm thinking Uproar by Chris Olsen, 1958....we've come a long way.

Yes Erf, snap indeed, but I suppose any parallel chord wing with motor and tail joined with strait lines is going to look similar. I do sometimes unleash my artistic side (but not often) as in this EPP fuz with lots of compound curves. If it flies, I hope it will do a reasonable job of pretending to be a DH Venom.

Erfolg, not sure if great minds think alike, but my lockdown build hack has had a similar history to yours. The wing I cut from foam about 20 yrs ago,and as an experiment just gave it a LE, TE, and capstrips stuck on with double sided tape and a little white glue. After film covering I was concerned about the balsa coming unstuck, so put it in the attic to mature for a bit, and then forgot about it. Needing a new hack I remembered the wing and retrieved from the attic and it was still in one piece. The fuz was drawn out on the balsa, the tailplane recycled from an old glider. Covering the fuz with cheap coloured tissue and WBP was a bit of a nightmare as it had no wet strength, but not too bad in the end. At 42ins span, 2.5 lbs auw with a 3s 2200 it is aerobatic but will fly slowly too. Pic taken last Sunday in calm conditions.

Very nice Keith...and good luck with the maiden....I'll try not to miss it. Ron

Hi Tim, it would seem that rules out pilot induced roll, and if it rolls in a dive without elevator input, asymmetric elevator response as well. Assuming tailplane halves are in the same plane, a small warp, or less likely, aerodynamic distortion, is the probable culprit. Ron

Well gentlemen, how about pulling out of the dive inverted. If it's a miss match or a one sided weakness on the elevators, it should roll in the opposite direction...maybe. Ron

Just a thought, but wouldn't a warped wing in a vertical dive from a good height, start to roll before before pulling out. Could it be that when pulling out of the dive, the extra load is twisting one wing half more than the other. I had this with a Phoenix when one wing half was less dense than the other. As previously mentioned, if you fly mode 2, it is easy to inadvertently nudge a bit of roll in the heat of high speed pull out. Ron

Ebird, mine was the same. The fix I used was to mount the 2200 on a strip of plastic, like a ruler, and then the battery could be slid under the wing, the strip held in place with velcro on the normal battery mount. Not my idea but it works without ballast at the back, mine was the original version. Ron Edited By ron evans on 31/07/2020 09:42:19

"Soon be as common as muck"....Too true, but I would have sold my granny for one when I was a kid. Float around on high, or throw it about like you were Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair. And cheap as chips as well!. Ron

Tosh, still have the volantex in the 2K, and still going strong, although I prefer the 1600 as it is more aerobatic. when fitted with the Blaze 1150kv motor which bolted to the nose without mods. Ron   Edited By ron evans on 27/07/2020 11:40:03

Jeff, on your BG refund. PatMc, my P2K had no weight box. in fact with the big volantex motor up front, the battery needs to be under the wing to get the cg right. Same with the 1600 with a 3536. Ron

Good luck with BG Jeffrey Ron

Had a quick look at the reviews, and no complaints about lack of power. With the v1 HK uprated to a larger motor, hard to believe they'd go back to a smaller one. One reviewer used a 4s 2200, giving unlimited vertical !! May be a misprint. Grab one and find out Ron

John, your 28dia motor obviously works well for you, and a lighter motor is good too as the P2K does tend to be nose heavy. My 1600 came with a 28 dia motor turning the 10x6 folder, but got too hot on 3 cells with poor performance. I considered a longer 28 with a lower kv, but in my experience a bigger motor drawing the same current will usually be more effective, so I fitted a 35dia one. Bigger motors will usually have a higher max Watt rating than a smaller one, and usually stay cooler, loosing less energy at the same current on the same prop. Ron

About 40 years ago I made a Hawk for PSS. Quite a taper on the wings, I made the tips E374, but the root with the same section was much too thick. A mate who was clever with computers printed out the section at 80% of the original and that looked a lot better. In pecentage terms the tip was thicker than the root, and I'm not sure if this was the reason, but the low speed handling was very good. I was able to hold in full up all mover. and the model would just sink with enough aileron authority to keep the wings level. the model is still in the attic...must refurb one day. Ron

Tosh, I'm with David on motor size, get one at least 35mm dia, it will be a lot more effective than something smaller. One thing to watch out for is the way  motors are described. My Emax BL 28/20 is actually 38mm o/d. The 28/20 refers to the stator diameter and length. Ron Edited By ron evans on 23/07/2020 14:30:15

Lindsay, if you read my posts, you'll see my P2K suffered almost terminal wing twist in a dive, caused by lack of stiffness, now completely cured by covering the wing with laminating film, with a huge increase in torsional strength. Ron