twinstar

Id reccomend the easyglider. i learned on one and taught others to fly with it. its pretty robust. mines been bashed, smashed, crshed, chewed by a curious dog. all fixed with cyanao, hot water and cunning. radian - i flew one, the wings of the one I flew seemed quite floppy and it had a built in incidence problem - full power results in pitch up with full down elevator insufficient to regain level flight (c/g was as manufacturer reccomends) - it pulls itself into a loop with power on.- perhaps amusing if you are experinced, but a model wrecker if you are a beginner. - this is a well documented issue, was adressed by paul naton along with other radian issues, on his free video" radian tune up". incidnce issue may now be fixed - was a while ago If you are not bothed about the resillience of a foamie, want something that will thermal, slope soar in light wings, and like building the west wings orion flies very well (if you build it properly), and is low cost. rudder elevator only but surprisingly agile if you fiddle with the control throws and c/g. just addd vertical grained balsa shear webs to the spar to strengthen it for aerobatics, rudder needs to be atouch larger as control authority is very docile with the standard sized rudder.     Edited By twinstar on 26/01/2017 22:52:09

i like that bootlace, pretty shape. far nicer than the blockyness of my whizza. I might have to make one, Electric for chuck launch and belly landing on grass, folding prop...hmmm

Whats the best hat for slopesoaring?, I wear a baseball cap as i like to keep the sun at bay with a peaked hat, but when its properly windy it just blows off, even if the headband is done up really tight. what are others using? ..think I need something better. I guess there's always the ski goggles option too,

Whizza. good on the reccomended setup, but i would have perefered a non flat-sheet wing. and a fraction longer nose Edited By twinstar on 09/06/2015 20:49:40

on point 1: I particularly find it quite irritating that "membership " is from 1 jan and not for 12 months from when I want to start it, like many other insurance policies. I quite humbly put this to a BMFA rep at their stand at Blackbushe: that they'd maybe get some more members if the membership could start when the member wants it to, i.e. im skint after christmas.. and was told "well tough, its not that much". Charming ! as you put it BEB: "an association in the normal meaning of that word":  ,,,would seek to meet the needs of its members and potential members. I certainly didnt feel like that was the attitude I was met with. Edited By twinstar on 11/05/2015 23:49:32

Incase you missed it, (not advertised on RCME events page) Blackbushe model airshow is on this weekend - its near Reading and Farnborough, The flying schedule is now up on the website: http://www.blackbushemodelairshow.co.uk/ The forecast looks ok too. Edited By twinstar on 11/05/2015 23:01:00

reckon its an EPP wing with a spruce spar. same as my Phoenix MB339.**LINK** mine is looking tatty too, but to get the profilm to stick to the cross weave tape I had to spray the model in 3m77 sparymount first. - this worked, but has made the covering film a nightmare to get off - so im leaving it as is. - don't suppose anyone knows a good way to strip covering film off in this circumstance?

Rocker - do note that a lot of Subirds seem to get broken, fellow fliers have reported the fuselage is very thin in layup, behind the trailing edge. I know of two Sunbirds that were broken on landings that were fairly mild, on a grassy hill top. Pretty little model though. There are other options for "better than cheap foamie performance" without necessarily going "fully moulded" have a look at offerings by Hyperflight uk such as the Skymaster / Veloce (good in light lift and more exciting than a fomie in the same conditions) I have a Hyperflight Speed-E - no longer available from Hyperflight, but from the same manufacturer (also sold by Ostflieger as the Stella - its a 1.8m electric version of the Skymaster, its been a fab little model - just lacks the aerobatic energy retention you get from a mouldie. imho mouldies come alive when let off the leash in the conditions where foamies start to struggle to penetrate, in lesser conditions you just need to be careful of what Andy Ellison referred to as "over elevator syndrone" - keep it moving. as well as the uk suppliers, theres loads of options from Arthobby and Blezyk, various choices from Staufenbiel, Topmodel CZ and so on..shop around. you might also grab a decent 2nd hand offer on the BARCS classifieds section of the forums. PS - my rcrcm Typhoon has savox 255's all round, and have been very good. particularly when used in conjunction with fu-fix external bearing sets, (potentiometer bearings), savox 255's are possibly a bit fat for a sunbirds wing unless using humped servo covers, though humped covers are no big deal. have you considered a Whisper ? http://www.south-coast-sailplanes.com/whisper-glider £270. oh yeah worth a look at OLE-RC too, they sell "seconds" as well as perfect RCRCM models, they will send you photo's of the issues so you are making an infomed descision and delivery is fast and you can track it - just have a slight risk of import duty (even with import duty my typhoon worked out less than it would have from a uk supplier and it came fast - things may have changed though).

I was having an issue with a new E-glider: 6 digital mini servo's and reciever all powered via the BEC, I was getting brownouts from the reciever: Using the SPC solved the issue, Im happy as I didnt have to buy anthing else to solve the problem.

Rhys. 1 Welcome 2 Stick with it: loads on info on here and over at RCGroups. 3 my ten penneth worth Plans are usually a side view, of the fuselage, a top view of the fuselage and a top view of the wing, a bit like an authographic projection. the little black triangles denote the edge of a single sheet. Many of the RCME plans are not suitible for beginners. even many of the flat sheet wing, flat sided models like the whizza are not really beginners models (although fine as a first build), Strongly advise you to get a simple "built up" kit to learn the building skills something cheap like a west wings orion glider, if you fancy a glider that is,. (its a nice simple slope / thermal soarer, 2 channel so you can put cheapo radio gear in it too) - decent instructions leave nothing to chance too. RCME did some articles "building from plans" a while back, you really need to read these ! Feb 2010 p77-81 Mar 2010 (sorry i dont have the page numbers, as i didnt get this issue) April 2010 page 99-103 You will also need to learn about the variety of links / clevis's, covering techniques and so on. PM me if you are having trouble finding the info you need. Whatever you build, you are likely to crash and smash, especially if self taught without a buddy box and someone to teach you..so you might want to consider a foam / EPP model until you have the flying skills. Another method is to learn at a local club see http://clubmap.bmfa.org/ You also need insurance ! (usually via BMFA membership).

Hawker Sea Fury

mine flew with an OS25 in it, seemed alright to me.

- i think you may be thinking my wing servo's are in vertically?, they are in on their side: like this: as the wings are thin. ie the servo frame follows the side profile of the servo. When new servo's come will see if i can just fiddle them first, and if not maybe a thin, steel braid wire slid underneath might cut them away. Had been wondering if cyano debonder would penetrate enough to loosen them.

So, i managed to burn out all 4 wing servos by reversing their polarity in the wiring harness. I cant get any replacement KST DS09A servo's (unless anyone knows of any?) Seems i have little choice but to somehow try and remove the plywood servo frames to make the space for some other servo's, the frames are cyano'd into a balsa top skinned wing. Any ideas how i can remove the servo frames without wrecking the wings, all i can think of is considerable time and care with a dremmel sanding drum. Whats a decent 9g (ish) servo with good centering? - preferably digital. Thanks Edited By twinstar on 06/10/2013 23:48:47

Could do with balsa or the building jig, for a winter project, which i cant afford to start otherwise.

try also these links: link 1 link 2

Take a look at this thread: Would suggest you get a copy of the RCME "Building from plans" articles that featured in Feb, March and April 2010 and the "Ironed out" article from April 2010 ( a roundup of the various coverings available and the pro's and cons of each) I considered scanning them and emailing to you but that's probably a breach of copyright. The magazine should be able to provide you with electronic copies. If the Ed. says its ok i'll be happy to scan and email. Edited By twinstar on 12/09/2013 22:58:23 Edited By twinstar on 12/09/2013 22:58:47

When cutting out the parts required (F1,F2 etc) from sheet balsa how do you accurately cut with the balsa covering the outline? - i use tracing paper and a biro to draw around the part in question, then turn it over, lay it onto the balsa wood and iron it on a low heat, the ink transfers over to the balsa, then cut carefully with a sharp scalpel (NOT a stanley knife !!), err on the cautious side and file / sand as necessary. For wing ribs learn the "sandwich method" it will save lots of time. Favourite heat shrinks are profilm and toughlon but neither are good for a model that needs to be light. Solarfilm is my least favourit as although light its easy to overheat it and cause the adhesive and the pigment to separate. If you have never covered a model i would urge you to practice on some test pieces you make up. I have some articles on file i will fish out and send you, covering: covering and building from plans.         Edited By twinstar on 12/09/2013 21:59:16

I'm not sure i could make a landing like that ever, but is a good point well made with a video. Andy, your solution seems right on ! im still figuring out the various ways of doing things in the A9 it took me ages to figure out all the programming for my typhoon as its a big leap in programming capability from the basic box I had before. I've also forgotten some of what it'll do as ive not flown for a while (second baby). Id never thought of using flight modes to disable the motor and crow accordingly. id love to get a copy of the file to see your setup, PM to follow. - int forums brilliant !

hmm..you lot got me thinking..so.. ..after a bit of thought and consideration of the postings ive decided that I will go with the crow activated by a switch to preset throws, and the throttle on the throttle stick as its a fairly powerful setup for a light model. I'll have the crow deployment slowed down so its not an instant response, (and potentially then an instant change in pitch) that way i can see how the glider is responding and react if needs be (would then adjust elevator compensation accordingly). Presume slowing down the crow deployment should be fairly straightforward on an Aurora 9. - I'd like to have control of what happens when I open up the throttle. (at least for the first few flights), Crow on a switch worries me less as ill be fairly conservative on the throws (no need for 90 degrees of down flap), particularly as its a fairly light and "floaty" model not a fully ballasted mouldie with a higher wing loading.   Edited By twinstar on 24/06/2013 20:51:11

thats merely a flesh wound, you'll be flying again in no time. it happens. Foam safe Cyano is a mgaical thing.

Hi Glider people: Quick question: Ive got a Hitec Aurora 9 radio, and Ideally want crow brakes and proportional throttle. - why do some folks have motors on a switch? - is the theory that you leave the throttle stick free for crow brakes and just use wide open throttle for a few seconds ? (I presume flicking the switch to wide open throttle draws a lot of amps compared to a gradual increase from a proprtional throttle?, perhaps i can find a delay setting on the radio or program the ESC for a slower start-up? - Is it possible to use the left hand flap side slider to control the crow brakes, have flap setting crontrolled by a three position switch (using flight modes to change the camber settings, as i do on my mouldies), and to retain motor control on the proportional throttle stick OR to have the crow on the throttle stick and motor control using the flap side slider ? I've flown plenty of gliders but after getting caught out once I, busting up the fuz on my typhoon mouldie, got myself a nice motor glider. for days when the lift aint so good.

anyone fancy a build blog of one of these? Edited By twinstar on 31/05/2013 22:37:11

incidence and throw meters: