Dave Bran

Does it have a rudder or rudders?

Expect an ARTF to follow...............................after all, if a real one is finished like that they MUST have been real. I'm with PatMc. I worked for some time in a Museum recreating the 1920-1930 period. A "new" period correct Fire Station was to be built, so plans were submitted to council but rejected until a pitch roof was added " because people looking down on it would be upset". EVERY station of that size and period in that county was flat roofed. ONE farmhouse could be said to overlook the site (if trees were cut down to gain view). Sanity never prevailed and it was built with pitched roof, so now all visitors likely think they had pitched roofs. I know of someone who destroyed the original exquisitely patterned and lettered cut and etched glass on a vehicle awaiting rebuild to be able to claim it was a London bus rather than a Brighton one, worth more you see!! Nice resto, totally inaccurate. Does it matter? I say yes, but in the case of that plane, its not ours, or in our country, and we have SO many cases of self sown idiocy here when it comes to preservation/historical accuracy I do not feel we have ANY right to comment so aggressively! I emitted a quiet "tut tut" (not Tutt) and wandered off.....it's always best.

You have named two people in the title, only one in the text. You may be really angry, but be careful who you defame. I assume you paid PayPal "friends", or you'd have a decent claim with them, if of course you have the documentation to match your statement?

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 31/12/2017 22:31:56: Posted by Andy48 on 31/12/2017 18:24:13: There is an easy way to overcome this error without having to copy everything on the SD Card. .....At the botton is the highlighted version file. Open it with something like notepad and change the version number to the one expected. Resave the file, job done and no more error messages. Bet you cheated at school too And got caught when something was altered in the file set to come along and hit you later...................................

Posted by PatMc on 31/12/2017 15:32:20: I don't think that the control, timers & several other options available on the DX8 or DX9 would suit me. Do they give verbal info & can they be programmed conveniently via an app ? 1. yes 2. They are perfectly easily set up on the Tx. (I'm a big FrSky fan, but there is nothing wrong with Spektrums onboard setup system)

Posted by Brian Anderson 2 on 31/12/2017 16:36:26: Ok so latest on this problem. I am using a Taranis x7. I have put in a new 32gb class 10 SD card. I now have the amber sound pack working ok. Everything seems to work on the models. But when I turn on the transmitter I still get this error message. " SD Card warning expected version 2.2V0013 press any key". Can anyone help resolve this issue please. The Tx firmware has to match the SD card contents, they do not automatically "pair".

Oh Dear Oh Dear. Since I use a DX6i, Dx7 (2), DX9, Futaba 6EX (2), Futaba 10CG, FlySky FS-i6, Frsky Taranis and two Horus, (and a lot of legacy 35, 40 and 27MHz) maybe I have a less Partisan (Biased?) view than some here. (Tee Hee) IF you upgrade PROPERLY and SENSIBLY, you FIRST look at the listed offered improvements and bug fixes, and decide if they are "for you" and warrant the time and trouble. Or do you blindly "upgrade" not knowing what in hells name you are getting? You know, like buying a new car when the old one is good for tens if not hundreds of thousands of miles yet! Many years ago I inherited a JR 35MHz Tx. The menu system was a travesty, it was easier to change Mode than it was to change Model! Now that desperately needed "upgrade", but that was then and no change was possible. As an example closer to date, the DX6i was released with a bug in Elevon mixing, and its still there, since updating was not part of the Tx design at that time. Your choice! BTW, I laughed like a drain when Spektrum (Horizon Hobbies) did an update to give a Multirotor model type, just as Blade (Horizon Hobbies) decided to base all their issued MRs on the Airplane model!!! You could not make it up...........................

"from tx-org" ???

Possibly "aloof" might be a little harsh? Aloof - not friendly or forthcoming; cool and distant. Hopefully he's somewhere with good weather and friends................

I have it on good authority the fuel doesn't care.....................

Firstly, nearly all my HobbyKing sourced ARTF are running with the originally supplied servos, despite LOTS of use, some of it five years plus. This includes some very fast and very nervous/aerobatic machines putting high loading on them. There simply in my extensive experience is NO hard on link between HK ARTF and poor servos across all their output. What if anything they do not do is QC bought in product before sale well enough. The Gening servos I mention above as rubbish were sold to me by a reputable respected UK seller along with foam glider plane kits. Reminds of many years ago when I bought a multi charger lead that when I checked before use was shorted! When it went to the suppliers "warranty checker" the reply to seller, copied to me, said "this product was so bad it could have been made by DYS" (DYS at the time were selling lots of budget servos via UK sellers, ones I had tested and rejected long before) What I do is to release links and check the hinging is not too stiff and work it manually for a while, part slitting if really required on the thicker foam hinge lines. I then set the throws/end points so no end binding and run monitor on the Tx for at least ten mins per servo (NOT a servo cycler which usually over travels surfaces) With regard screw type wire ends (EZGrip, etc), I have many in use over more than ten years. I do not use threadlock and have NEVER EVER had one loosen, though that does not stop me checking under the assembly checks and maintenance that many seem not to do. To "ban" screw type fixings blanket fashion is "safety overkill". NO system is free from the need for checks.

Oh, and your list 3 and your second 4 (!!) It might be giving them credit they do not deserve but one way of ensuring aileron differential is to use the rotational effect of the arm on linear rod movement, and in that case the arms would not be centred, but offset to give differing up and down movement distances. Coat, get....................................

Now to Discus Launch gliders (Will he never stop?). They need good servo resolution, as you need very fine smooth control, a servo that "steps" across its range and exhibits centering and other issues is NO use at ALL and you will not get the best from the plane. (Especially but not exclusively true for small wings like Alula, etc). I have found that the Ripoff Max (Dymond in USA) range of SD100/SD200 or similar Savox models give the best performance at affordable cost.

Incidentally, I'd not be surprised if all servos now are actually "digital" no matter how labelled/described, its just their quality that varies. Many years ago I was buying lots of JP micro servos, and one batch had analogue and digital labelling on them inside digital packaging. When JP investigated from my report back the feedback from China was that they'd gone over to manufacturing digital only and were just using up label stock, so even a servo that was in analogue packaging with analogue label MIGHT be digital!! (And they had told no-one!!!!). One make I have in the recent past had recommended by a respected seller, bought and had to take out as they were rubbish (two sizes) were Gening, and that had nothing to do with the Rx set up.

Well, you may not be missing something, but we are! You have not explained your set up, radio wise. While it might be servos it might also be the Rx not pairing its frequency. For example, the FrSky FASST compatibles have a HF mode for high resolution digitals that is entered in a similar manner to binding, and its not at all unusual for people to set them wrongly during bind without realising till the servos keep chattering and then if they don't take the hint, an in flight burn out is quite likely. There is enough evidence here (especially heating!) that you should NOT proceed in flying it as is!!

Why do you consider the XT60 unsafe?

Some were SO embarrassed by their choice of Radio that they did not allow their picture to identify them.

Good. Brief history lesson, bear with me! The original team that produced Px up to v3.5 were great. Once HH got their hands on the prog and another programming house were mucking around with v5 making lots of basic mistakes, not so much. One point that their people do not seem to "get", is that the numbers now don't properly relate to the effect, particularly true of weather. Weather in the wind sense for slope soaring is still largely broken. It was OK in v3, not now! You can get around it, but don't expect the figures to relate to real world. On Flying field, you can have the situation with std weather and models that they are blown around on ground with a setting of 10mph - patently ridiculous! However, ignore the "mph", treat it as a sliding scale number, and you'll find a decent enough reaction easy to get. With regard comments on being too easy, another poor effect is weight. If you treat the settings as "just a number" then they have the right range effect, just not necc at the stated "right" number. I have many aircraft tuned to well above the "apparent" weight and they then handle correctly to expectation (or reality in the case of models I have). Also bear in mind you can easily make an electric model ic and the reverse, set which noise you want, set idle on zero throttle, etc, etc. Some models were left std too susceptible to things like ground effect, etc.

I can also point to where there are LOADS of non -standard planes once you have the std set under proper control.

Posted by Erfolg on 21/12/2017 15:30:54: Ah! Yes, now that I have the electric models up and running the look and feel is much closer to an actual model, particularly the twin jet. Still not quite as stall prone, although much nearer. Thanks, for the input. I would have liked a Gee Bee, although you never can have everything. You still need to look around more, as there IS a Gee Bee as standard install, if you have "Class" set for the model list order its under "Scale" listed as "Gee Bee Z". The std is Yellow but I have produced Deep Orange, Lime Green, and Purple so flying buddies and I can "race" a colour each.

Posted by Erfolg on 21/12/2017 12:14:08:Does it need adjusting. Yes, and there are so many adjustments possible that with no knowledge of where you are now its largely pointless to advise, so get all the models working first, then take a note of what you have on a favourite, so you could return, and experiment. Set some wind, set the vulnerability if that's your bag, and try till it does what YOU want.

Posted by Erfolg on 21/12/2017 12:14:08: Anyway, at long last Phoenix is running on my PC. I am somewhat surprised at there appearing to be just a number of IC larger models available. Is this correct? NO, its not correct, Please choose each of the model classes, which are not picked by clicking on the name, but by the small triangle before each class name.

It happened to me or at least right by me, when a flying buddy plugged in. He hung desperately onto the plane, I turned the Tx on that he'd just thought he'd turned on but had turned off! (And yes, no fail safe set!) On another occasion a plane on a nearby table powered up, Futaba wrong model, just bad luck it powered up on a glider model memory with throttle not reversed............. it went between cars in the pits and tangled itself to a standstill without any lasting damage. Our club (now!) has a rule that EP models have to be restrained in the pits, though flying wings and the like are not obviously able to be loop or rod in ground held.

Posted by YakMad on 07/03/2017 08:49:30: I was looking at getting a 130s but I think I'll wait a while, I wonder is there a bug in the Panic/Recovery software or a power problem with the inbuilt BEC. Let us know Dave if you get to the bottom of this. Looking for something else I came across this from March, and am embarrassed to realise I did not feed back here, though I did elsewhere. In Precis, the loss of stabilisation particularly in left turns was with a couple of others similarly affected worldwide with enough nouse to investigate thoroughly found to occur with high C rated packs, Yes, odd but read on! The std pack HH/Blade state (but do NOT provide) is relatively low C and only 300mAh 3S. The issue is that the Heli is inherently desperately tail heavy! Also, many people (like me) would already have a 180CFX with lots of higher C rated 450mAh 3S. You cannot roll over the old 130X packs as they are only 2S. The giveaway clue to the issue was that the Heli has a ferrite core on the battery lead, extremely unusual in a micro Heli. Ergo, they seem (possibly) to have had feedback interference issues in development and patched it with the core. However, fitting a higher C rated pack and unleashing more current was enough to cause issues . A 450mAh 65C 3S pack created the issue. A 370mAh 25-40C 3S was completely trouble free. This was duplicated across the world with others, going back and fore till it was beyond doubt. Not using above that pack type, the Heli has been trouble free ever since. For the record, I have had one other issue, the canopy was not trimmed wide enough at the top and so while the collective servo rod would slide past with clearance, the stepped out plastic end could depending on the canopy rest position catch in the down direction from near fully up, loading up and potentially damaging the linear servo. Easy enough cured, trim the canopy wider with curved nail scissors.

I have used HobbyWING (sic) UBECs for many years and never had the slightest issue with any, large or small current type.