Capt Kremen

I sympathise with your plight 'Filmbuff'. Down the years I've tried various permutations. 'Aeronaut' & similar quality 'folding prop' hubs, bolts & spinner are usually pretty reliable for folding. If the hub bolt is too free, the prop blade sometimes flops down during slower phases of flight. You say you would prefer not to go down the rubber band route, which is a rough 'n ready fix that generally works. You could try another hub/pivot bolt assembly but the quality ones are usually not cheap. Try 'Gliders' in the UK for their stock or 'Hollein Modelbau' & 'Lindinger Modelbau' in Germany. The latter two give superb service and are very often cheaper than UK even after p&p has been factored in.

The only eBay XACTO ones I can find are located in the States! Just looked/searched TJD Models site, showing handles as 'Out-Of-Stock', but will ring Tuesday to enquire. Yep, the blades are good, (have plenty of those in my tool-chest), just need a working #2 size handle that will hold them and the DuBro hinge cutting blades.

Trying, (in vain!), to find a UK supplier of XACTO products. I'm looking for a new '#2' size Handle, (the chuck became too loose on my old one). Have XACTO stopped shipping to the UK as uneconomic with so many cheap far eastern copies of seemingly everything circulating? If no XACTO, would welcome alternate suggestions for a 'collet' style handle. The 'DuBro' hinge kit I have #2 size blades for are quite wide approx. 9mm at the shank end. Thanks for any assistance.

Mmm ... yes ... but I did say our magazineS ... plural i.e. 'Aeroplane Monthly', 'Aviation', 'Popular Flying', 'Aeromodeller', 'Scale Models', 'Flight' etc. etc. etc. Most, if not all magazines cost circa £4-£5 these days, as a pensioner can't afford subs to all those and may only need to glance the odd news item anyway.

As like most that frequent this forum, I'm a 'mature cheddar', somewhat less nimble and thus able to contort the body as once when a gymnastic youth. So is it just me but why is 'our' magazine almost always tucked away, on the floor level, buried under shelves, often hidden behind copious railway magazines. (By the way, I have nothing against railway fans). This is especially true of the well known high street newsagent and general 'cluttered' layout shop, I'm sure your town/city has a branch. On Saturday, I was literally on hands and knees hunting down the aviation magazines, I eventually found them but my back didn't appreciate the search! Do they want to sell (our) magazines???

Fortunately, one of those seldom (for me) jobs has arisen ... A brushless motor requires a new set of bearings. Yes, I have done this in the past but thought I'd try and get 'proper' tools to do it (better) this time. The mini/micro circlip at the shaft end of the motor, what circlip pliers do folk recommend? (I have a set of Rolson circlip pliers with an assortment of 'jaws', all of which are far too big to fit inside the motor circlip!) Looking online, typing in 'needle-nose' or similar doesn't show up any finer gauge pliers than the Rolson I have. So, engineering experts among us, what should I look for or else a specific recommendation? As it's not a frequent task and the pliers get much use, 'professional' quality & associated (high) cost is not really justifiable. .... Add a mini 'Arbor Press' to the shopping list and I'm wondering whether to just buy a new motor! (Though I'm trying to be a good boy and fix an item rather than further add to the 'throw-away society' etc. etc.)

I have the VQ 'Piper TriPacer'. Concur with others, the covering can be the Achilles Heal of these models, it being printed. Though they do provide small sheets of 'spare' covering for 'patching'. Also, as others have said, the fittings such as clevis, spinners, wheels are at best average, at worst poor quality. Some parts need fettling to fit or complete replacement. The 'TriPacer' makes a nice model, (eventually!), and flies well for a scale type. (There's a particularly good French(?) video on the Tube showing the model in action). The instruction manual leaves much to be fathomed out for yourself too. They are OK if you've built a model or three, want a fairly quick fix/build, and are prepared to 'work' on the poor areas!

Anyone using the 'Battlife Guard' units advertised by PowerBox Systems (P39 latest RCM&E)? I'm a bit puzzled why you would want these. Assuming you have a quality LiPo charger with discharge & storage facility settings, what do these units do that a decent charger unit cannot???? They require an addition 'adaptor' too, so they are not cheap, assuming you have a few LiPo packs to put into 'store/discharge'. They are for 2S & 3S only.

Dare I ask - a twin using these units - Meteor, Canberra, Me262, Ar234 .... am I dreaming....

Having completed the CAA consultation document feedback, I observe they are focused solely on how the scheme will operate, charges and covering their costs. They have no regard (or interest) to matters of flight safety and our opinions on how to improve it. I have no problem with having, for example my BMFA membership number being applied to any of my models should it/my actions result in the model aircraft infringing Gatwick R/W26 and the authorities need to trace me. Quite a few of our community do not have familiarity or use of IT so how do they conducts their tests? Echoing many previous comments, the proposals do absolutely nothing to further flight safety of persons, property or aircraft on the ground or in the air. The CAA has very limited resources to enforce existing aviation legislation as is. However, putting this piece of an ever expanding legal jigsaw in place, assists ensuring conviction if anyone is caught and likely invalidate our model insurance if they are not registered. Oh and I expect to see a grinning, self satisfied Minister/MP (All Parties), stood in front of a TV reporter crowing how stringent measures have now been introduced to curb the menace of rogue 'drone' operations stopping your holiday flight. Enjoy your flying folks!

Not meaning to be flippant, but kits old/new/un-built/built, are worth what folk are willing to pay for them. 'We' in general, are a shrinking community so the likely market is shrinking too! Old kits, nostalgic as they may be from the 'good-old-days', might not be of a comparable quality to many of today's laser cut, 3D Printed, carbon fibre and other exotic materials constructed models can be. As another thread has recently noted re 'Disposing of models', even club sales raise relatively small amounts for quality un run motors, kits and mint Radio gear.

Where the screw hole already exists and the screw is loose, take a small piece of 'soft wood' e.g. match stick. Break off enough to insert as filler in the hole, using a spot of glue to stop it coming out. Re-insert the screw. The screw will then cut a new tighter thread fit. (This is a common remedy for musical instrument loose screw strap buttons which are subject to constant wear and tear).

Can you operate / test the ESC using a WattMeter (i.e. LiPo-ESC-Motor with No Prop)? I have occasionally found the 'range' available on these meters allows otherwise recalcitrant ESC to operate!

A (8 year old) 'Century Evolution 180 SE' electric heli has been passed around various club members and is now in my hands for 'evaluation' = (sorting-out!). It is in perfect, undamaged condition as far as I can see. (From a deceased flier who, alas, had never got around to fly it by the looks of things). Searching the web I note it is a 'badged' Walkera product. It comes with a dedicated 2.4 Tx (Walkera WK-2403). First off, the manual is poor and written in Chingleese. The (conventional) bind process as described in the manual i.e. Tx on then connect Rx battery, does not work. However, the unusual procedure of connect Rx LiPo first then switch on, whilst simultaneously HOLDING a right stick full left or right input, sets the bind process in process and after a few seconds a successful bind IS achieved. I puzzled over this and thought, are you sure that's correct?!? But now numerous binds later, it is! I've achieved 1 - 2 min flights in the confines of the garden with the occasional very light breeze. With a fully charged LiPo, initial hops are fair to OK though control response is marginal particularly in pitch(elevator), it being reluctant to fly forward with full right stick 'down' input. (Mode 2 Throttle / Rudder Left set-up). OK I am a novice heli pilot and I dare say this is an old/less accurate model compared with current more sophisticated types. Are there any heli pilots who have owned/flown this model? Can shed some light on potential trimming improvements? Pilots notes? The Tx seems restricted in that servo travel is either 100% or 50% and no sub trim to increase throws either. Thanks for any assistance.

IF it's just the (weak) plastic 'axle' pin that's broken, (as mine has done a few times!), then it's a simple matter to insert a suitable size diameter dowel/wire. Then, 'Robert's Your Uncle', no need to shell out circa £15-00 for a pretty plastic bagged replacement.

Having attended two workshops at different locations/host clubs, I agree with all previous. They are very well organised, (even had the perfect flying weather delivered!). Interesting spread of mostly 'mature' (old boys) present. As can be expected from such a diverse mix, some are pedants others more laissez-faire though still in keeping with the spirit of the 'A' & 'B' tests. Having been a member of half-dozen or more clubs across the UK down the years and observing flying standards, I doubt the average club flyer regularly executes the manoeuvres as precisely as some at the workshops demand!

As Frank says, this is a fantastic system. Going to a model show or music festival this year and parking your car in a field of dozens of rows and full of hundreds of vehicles?!!! No problem finding it with What3Words. Just store your (vehicle) location as a favourite and enter directions to when you are ready to depart. It can be set up for car or foot navigation too, so handy for finding that elusive backstreet model shop, (are there any left?), when visiting a new town. The 'app' is available from the usual source on your mobile smart phone. It also gives live traffic updates showing potential delays/hold ups and will offer alternate routes, all with ETAs for you destination. Brilliant!

Any Blade Nano S2 users? If so, any points to look out for during set up and recommendations for set up? I'm binding to a Spectrum DX6i. (There doesn't seem to be much in the way of video or threads I could find from owners, just the usual PR stuff from Horizon!) Edited By Capt Kremen on 31/03/2019 18:39:52

Knowing folk have 'dates-in-the-diary' yonks ahead, thoughts are already being had for next winter's club indoor nights. My club has already enjoyed presntations from George (4-Max) and Andy (BMFA). Located in the southern area (Basingstoke, Chichester, Winchester, Alton), can folk suggest good (none too niche & specialist), guests that would appeal to a wide mostly seniors audience of fixed wing electric & Increasingly fewer i/c fliers?

Yep, 'SuperNova' - Red G/F fuz and built up wings with two wire joiners, all-moving tailplane. Very good flat-field flier and off the slope too.

Ah .... the Trueline 'Corsair' .... so simple a layout but a superb kit, lovely clear printed plan, (still have that!), a fantastic sports flyer even on 27 Meg 'Brown', Futaba 'M' & 17M(?) Black & Red servos (different direction - no servo reversing on yer trannie back then!)

Thanks Allan. Yes we, (club instructors), found the 'Apprentice' less than satisfactory with its A3X(?) super dooper stabilisation, not to mention the model itself which wobbled around & across our grass strip on its spindly u/c! Maybe just stick to just de-selecting controls that the student needs to handle until they've got the hang of 'pole stirring' ... and just how much/little input may be required.

I have dabbled with various makes of gyro, to greater or lesser success, using a variety of models & two major brands of R/C gear. (See latest RCM&E article if unfamiliar with such devices). As a club instructor, I have to date not installed a gyro in any of the training airframes used. However, the recent magazine article rekindled a possible interest and wonder the following. If a training airframe, operating satisfactorily with a gyro switched 'on' using the 'Master/Instructor' Tx by the instructor, then transfers control to the 'Pupil/Slave' Tx, does the gyro operation transfer (satisfactorily) with it? Of the several gyro systems used, some, (if not most?) have the ability to be switched on/off and often into other modes of operation such as heading hold. However, Basic, (in terms of control function), Tx that might be used for the 'Pupil/Buddybox' Tx, may only have 4 controls i.e. Rudder, Elevator, Aileron (Single or One per aileron) & Throttle. Other controls & functionality may be restricted hence seeking confirmation it would be safe & practical to use a gyro for buddybox training. If there are no issues with 'gyro' buddybox training, the advantages can potentially be many. Flying and exposure of a pupil to livelier weather conditions i.e. switching the gyro in/out so the pupil can learn to cope with a bit of a blow unaided! Flying more advanced types, such as conversion from high wing to possible less stable low wing and so on. Instructors using gyros, your experiences, any aspects to beware of/avoid etc. etc.?