Denis Watkins

Chris Foss WOT4 (equiv .46) 56" 1422mm 5.4lbs 2455g PO-5055-595 APCE 13"x 8" PP-TESC60AU 4S 3300mAh Chris Foss WOT4 (equiv .90FS) 56" 1422mm 5.4lbs 2455g PO-5055-595 APCE 14"x 7" PP-TESC70AU 5S 3300mAh

I am no economist lads, but the Dollar has devalued just as much as the Pound. I think making "an offer" is still acceptable, and very often they take you up on paying the purchase price but free Post as the discount. The sellers need to survive and will often listen to an "offer" as opposed to having no sale.

Some servos Dave are designed "slow moving", and would return to zero after the sticks, also the TX may be set to "servo slow" These are just 2 ideas

Brilliant outcome Ace; Science does work

Just on taper seat guys, both taper and flat seats are parallel threaded. What changes is the plug seat that originally was flat on our Ford Anglias, but designed tapered to increase the gas/seat surface area for a better seal, so Robbie's motor had the improved version. But neither are interchangeable, so just the same, you would not get a good seal with a flat seat plug in a taper seat motor

Take a look at the aluminium spinners on page 4 and 5 of IC spinners on model accessories.co.UK Martin. They come with ring spacers and key. Give them a ring

P.S. do not even consider crashing, I glued my wing on, and with the bicycle clips on, keep those wings level, and think nice things, not crashing

I have to generalise, but I do fly many small electric models. 20inch span is a good start for easier flight but weight has to be all up at 80 - 100 grammes, 80 being preferable including battery. I do not fly this model, but I do fly a 20 inch span, more than adequately on 40watts, 10A or 6A ESC and 180 - 300 mah 2s, the lightest you can find, 20 - 30 grammes weight. The dreaded orange receiver weighs 9 grammes, but take it out of its case and it weighs 3 grammes. And 2 - 3 grm servos are easily available With low weight, you will not need to sheet the wing, happy flying

OG, they do sell left and right hand thread prop drivers, if you have to use these props

Justin has a point, woodruff keys are magnetic and could be sat somewhere on the motor Trebor

Modelfixings.co.UK Have woodruff keys £2

OG, ccw is the correct traction prop And cw is a pusher prop But it may have gone bye the bye as leccy guys can switch cables You ordered the correct ccw props

I am hooked on Cub Yellow in the blue sky, and have owned 5 but still fly 3 of them, and it is my "brain training" as a test of the onset of old age, that I judge myself coordinating the aileron/rudder turn so as the tail follows the wing. Acheiving this is such a "buzz" and so too is scale graceful flying. To add, I too have no washout added and it would be wasted on the wings I have seen. Seeing the the Cub, lift its tail, traveling along on its main wheels, then lifting off with both main and tailplane level is a sight to behold.

You have a point buddy, you are spinning the wrong hand of your thread But, if it is a less powerful model, like my indoor stuff, the but stays on The "ground" old, is our enemy, avoid the ground he he

Viewed from the front, old

Prop nut

Prop but, is the prop but My tablet types what it thinks adequate

Clockwise, and counterclockwise, old, symbols to the prop but But can you not change over 2 motor cables as is usual, to feel the thrust pull In a safe tethered manner of course Be careful bud

Don't forget guys, with dissimilar metals in close contact, we can shift them with both the addition, and subtraction of heat. Freezing could be the answer, and applied pressure as the assembly warms up again. Is just a thought, as we are constructors and hate damaging things

I know this is overkill, so please don't chop my head off as it relates to lesser powered motors in the olden days. In the l olden days I worked at UMIST, the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology, and was starting RC modelling, and there I met a whizz kid boy racer, who was also an engineer, and UMIST had in its possession every conceivable industrial process machine that you could imagine at the time, though there was no CNC. Granted there was no where the cheap high powered motors we have now, but the boy racer threaded his header to pipe with a long amount of turns of the finest thread on the jig. It was suck it and see, adding and subtracting turns on the pipe, with different props and fuels, but oh boy the motor pulled

Sorry guys, continue the good work

Martin, PM me if you want to know how to fly or how to tune correctly

You guys are experts and can fly, and you can tune a motor. Have you forgotten how it feels to be a page one, brand new? Newbie I offered Martin a Way Forward with his Tacho that does work, Your offer of him tuning by flying does work for EXPERT flyers Here is a Newbie Consider page one boys, start with an understanding that not all of us as clever as you Guys come on here for help

The Tacho will become more useful Martin as the motor is fully run in. If your desire is to improve the tuning of a run in motor, then peak the motor by turning in the main needle until your Tacho shows the highest figure with that prop, then turn out the main needle very slowly to deduct 200rpm from the top figure achievable. This setting is just on the rich side of lean, and is the safe side. Allow the motor to idle, without stalling, and measure the rpm. We should be able to get this down to 2000rpm, that is great for landing. If the motor has an unreliable tickover above 2500 then more running in until you can get a good idle at 2000rpm

It matters very little that I was their at RAF Cosford and saw this event and was devastated.... As soon as the motor cut, there was NO way out. The worse scenario in model flight is a deadstick, low flying bipe going downwind, and I stress BIPE. Robbie, well done young man to treating us all these years and those to come.